The Newest Restored Garden Tractor in America, Husqvarna GT48DXLS, the Build.

GT48DXLS · Jul 18, 2019

Going back in time to JUN2018, Rebuilding my very expensive $3,000 piece of lawn furniture, into the Garden Tractor I thought I bought.

The chassis failed at 63hrs, 11 months after purchase. I now have 183.6 hrs on the meter, the first 100 hrs after rebuild, spent, exclusively using the Johnny Bucket. The JBJR is well built, and capable of more than they represent. Thank you, to Johnny Products.

JUL2018-

Turning a GT48DXLS into an actual Light Duty Garden Tractor.

I want to show the process as it unfolds as best I can, mistakes and all, to hopefully inspire someone in my position (with a buckled frame) that finds himself on the fence, questioning, if you can do this, or to just pay the $500 to $600 as quoted from the Dealer to have the same problem frame. It is my hope that the answer is "if that guy can do it....so can I".

This build will start with a $70 Harbor Freight canopy for shade. The Temperatures in July/Aug here in Florida are a Brutal 90F plus 80% to 100% humidity with a thunderstorm 4 times a week to interrupt the personal sweat shower.

My tractor is in pieces on the back porch, lawn, and canopy.

There are I think 27 or 28? sections or postings to get this whole thing up. If there is a detail you are interested in, let me know. Chances are, I have the picture, or the answer is still coming. I will be getting my originals that I archived on CD's, It was a big project.

Here is the new TS/ GT Chassis, (To be clear, UPS only charges $13. in shipping to your door from Husqvarna, Husqvarna charges the Dealer $90. in special freight to ship to your Dealer. I went with UPS)

More coming,

GT48DXLS · Jul 18, 2019

01JUL2018,

The 1/4" x 3" x 60" flat bar being prepped for the fabricators. The 2 rails are 25 lbs, the frame is 26 lbs.

I'm using HF transfer punch set, they were sized correct to ensure that the center would be dimpled to keep the over 50 holes as accurate as possible, thanks to machine forums.

A look at the rest of it in waiting on the porch with the complete manual I constructed of the Tractor, Kawasaki, Tuff Torq, Parts list's, Trouble Shooting and Transaxle Maintenance, all laminated. The reason for laminating? Greasy fingers, torrential rain, and torrential rain. I got tired of wet soggy pages I would have to remake.

This is the HF 12 speed drill press I bought for the job. The holes were to be drilled at 250 to 400 rpm with plenty of cutting oil to keep the bits cool so they would not dull. I also bought Cle-Line 15 bit set, 135 degree split points that were well worth the money for a project this size with 1/4" steel. They were cool to the touch and didn't dull (another piece of good advice, I was tired of bits going dull to quick). The oil I used was 30 wt, and dispensed it out of a $10 oil can that had a long spout. I just kept the bits oiled and used a steady hand, with a lot of patience. (all day plus the next morning)

More coming,

GT48DXLS · Jul 18, 2019

01JUL2018-02JUL2018,

More project pictures,

Those are 3/8 bolts holding that wood on solid for flat drilling surface.

I ended up drilling most holes 2 sizes over with the edges deburred on both sides. My logic on this was that as careful as I was, I noticed that the holes would still have miner alignment issues. I wanted the fabricators to be able to weld without having to chance fixing my work (they are pro's I'm not!). I also made sure that the bar would be perfectly flat on both sides with out it biting me when I was bolting it back together (guaranteed no burrs)

More coming,

GT48DXLS · Jul 18, 2019

02JUL2018, 03JUL2018

More project pictures,

My part is almost finished!

By the way, I did wipe them down in WD40 to keep them from flash rusting.

I'm getting these ready to use paint to color the square holes that are going to be punched by the pro's for $1 each, well worth it!

That's 3M painters tape. I used an ex-acto knife to cut out the squares and black spray paint. The surface was prepped with acetone and denatured alcohol.

More coming,

GT48DXLS · Jul 18, 2019

04JUL2018

next was to prep the frame for welding using any number of tools to sand paint away from all potential spots to be welded by a minimum of 1". I did all the sides and 2" just to be sure. The best tool was the 3M Roloc Bristle Disc (green) 18527, 3" with a die grinder for the 15,000 to 20,000 rpms. They are great for head gaskets too, they don't harm the metal and they are truly fast and easy. The corners and edges were done with a Dremel.

More coming,

GT48DXLS · Jul 18, 2019

17JUL2018,

My modified frame is back and I had the brilliant idea to paint this myself with rattle cans.

I was using the mouse to scuff the surface, not clean to bare metal.

Below is how it turned out with 4 layers of primer 92-94F and 90%+ humidity.

Yep, bad idea. It was terrible. The paint would dry hitting the metal and that soft surface is the powder like feel that would just rub off. Too Hot, To dirty, and TOO Much humidity to paint.

I opted to have powder coaters in Tampa (another hour + away) get the job done right.

More coming,

GT48DXLS · Jul 18, 2019

30JUL2018,

$100 at the powder coaters and it was well worth it. The original quote was $150 but it came out at $100.

More coming,

Kyle_in_Tex · Jul 18, 2019

Did the johnny bucket cause the frame to buckle? Or did it happen without the johnny bucket?

Anyway, neat that you are getting it fixed back up stronger and better.

GT48DXLS · Jul 18, 2019

12AUG2018, Time to transfer the motor and transaxle to the new frame. I created a way to safely hold the motor until I installed it.

this was easy and I could quickly roll it around out of the way. The movers dolly is HF, been used for many things.

The bolt at the bottom of the motor shaft came out easiest with a impact wrench while using the old belt on the drive pully (twisting it tight so as to not allow slippage and to not do anything damaging to the pulley. The HF air tank is modified to be able to use air tools but won't last long. I get about 3 or 4 good uses with the impact.

Out with the old chassis,

In with the new chassis,

More coming,

GT48DXLS · Jul 18, 2019

12AUG2018 more stuff

I decided to go with a Kevlar drive belt. The stock belt had less surface area in contact with the pulley.

the old belt;

the Kevlar belt, Minor difference, but I'll take it;

Having the belts stretched out;

This is the actual code for the drive belt, the one from Husqvarna is not actually terrible in price, the one for the fabricated deck is!

The deck belt (fabricated clear cut decks only) is 4LK1360 1/2"X136" (AK134).

This is the drive belt package;