the perfect trailer

[farmerpsv]

Hi all,
Have never owned a trailer and would appreciate input on the subject. My towing capacity is 3500#. would use it to haul my trash cans to the dump, construction cleanup, hauling building materials. occasionally hauling a tractor implement or riding lawnmower, hay. also, would use it on a stretch of hwy that is 75mph.
thanks,
paul

 

[bczoom]

Paul,

Not sure if there is a "perfect trailer".

Your needs seem relatively easy so, I'd consider something like:
Somewhere in size from a 5x8' to 6x12' range. (Single axle, no brakes).
Not sure what you're towing it with but I'd pick something that you can see the trailer (or at least fenders) out of your side mirrors.
Based on what you're hauling, I'd probably recommend something with a wood (normally 2x6") deck. The metal grate ones don't hold up as well to impacts. The wood is also a bit heavier which will stop it from bouncing around a lot when empty.

For 75 mph, I'd try to get something with at least 14" wheels.

Many trailers in this size range with come with a grated rear ramp. If the one you're considering does have the ramp, try to take it off yourself once. (One of my trailers is a 6x12' and the ramp is very heavy and difficult to take off/put on by myself).

Not sure if you would want to use it around the yard, but if you do, the smaller sizes are more maneuverable.

Brian

 

[farmerpsv]

Thanks Brian,
just gave up having a truck after 16 years, I have a Highlander. i may use it with my tractor around the farm, thanks for your advice. i was wondering about things like number of axels, bouncing etc.
paul

 

[btolle]

I would get the longest trailer you can afford and have room to store (within reason of course).

The shorter the trailer is the harder it will be to back up. A longer tongue helps.

I use a friends trailer occasionally and it is about 4X8 or 5X8 and it is the worse trailer in the world to back up. I am a pretty good 'backer-upper' but I have heck with his trailer. The short wheelbase is terrible as well as not being able to see the trailer over the tailgate of the Jeep Liberty.

It also has a fixed mount screw jack that is pretty close to the hitch. If I tow with anything that has a spare tire on the tailgate (Jeep Liberty) I have to take the spare off or the jack hits the spare when I go through a big dip. And my friends driveway has a big dip at the end. I cut a brand new $50 spare tire cover before learning that lesson.

If you are buying new get a swing up jack, much quicker to use and won't have the spare tire problem.

Be aware that a lot of new trailers come with used tires on them. I don't mind as long as the tires are not too old, are a matched set, and carry a sufficient load rating. The tires will dry rot out in about 7 years from the ozone, probably long before you will wear the tread out.

New is not cheap but most of the used trailers I have seen advertised were junk and they still wanted 75% of what I could buy a brand new one for.

BTW, do not tow a trailer with a Jeep Wrangler. The tow rating on a Jeep Wrangler is 2,000 pounds but more importantly the short wheelbase will result in the "tail wagging the dog". U-Haul will not rent trailers to Wrangler drivers because of the danger involved.

Bill Tolle

 

[rdln]

Oh lets see,

based on your 3500# capacity:

15" wheels

3500# 5 lug axle centered under bed
maybe w/brakes

leaf springs with shock absorbers

5x8 foot bed in between tires with fenders you can stand on, longer if you have snowmobile (northern thing)

2" coupler on a single 2x2, 1/4" wall steel tongue that pivots just above axle
and locks via pin on front of bed.

sidewind tongue jack that swings out of the way once attached to vehicle and then can swing more to a feature on front of bed that allows a power up/power down movement for bed tilt.

5/16 (overkill) safety chains that have a place for the hooks w/spring clasps to stow when not in use

4 prong light connector (If no brakes) that is fixed (doesn't dangle and drag on ground) on top of tongue and requires a jumper/adapter from TV's rv type connector and is kept in TV while not
in use.

12awg automotive wire with soldered and heatshrunk connections, routed through gray PVC conduit to super duper fortified LED tailights and side markers.

2x2 1/8" thick steel bed frame with ladder construction reinforced at spring mounts.

24" to 48" sides with welded 1x2 1/8" thick steel vertical supports with same as top railing.

A removable tailgate/ramp with expanded metal floor that doesnt rattle when stowed.

Recessed, adequately built tiedown points on inside floor.

Floor, sides and bulkhead sheathed with cdx plywood with minimal stainless stove bolts blind tapped into frame (or 14 ga. steel sheet continuosly welded and then hot dipped galvanize whole trailer and then completely covered with rhinoliner.)

Custom canvas 7'x10' cover with rubber
straps and strategically place attachments on outside of trailer.

 

[bczoom]

Steve,

I definitely like your trailer specs but assumed he didn't want to spend more than about a grand for a smaller one or maybe $1400 if it were a 6x12.

I agree with Bill and Steve on the swivel up jack. (I forgot about that but did it to mine also).

I also agree with Bill on the shorter trailers/tongues are harder to backup.

Paul - Re. the "tail wagging the dog", you'll want to be aware of that as well. Although your Highlander won't act like a Wrangler, an improperly balanced load (much heavier on one side of the trailer than the other), incorrect tongue weight (should probably go for 100# minimum and increase to approx. 10% of total towed weight) can/will make it want to push the back end of your Toyota around. Most notable when doing down hills.

The trailer I was referring to in my first post was listed as having a rear grated ramp. The one Steve was referring to is a tilt bed. You'll probably find both options in this size range. That one is a personal preference.

I haven't experienced the tire issue Bill mentioned on my trailers. Mine rarely see the sun, but I have trailers in the size you're looking at with 15-20 years on them. I would check the max. load rating on the tires to assure they're close to the max capacity of the trailer.
E.g. A 6x12' trailer without brakes will probably be listed as having a GVWR of 2990# (over 3000 and it has to have brakes). The smallest tire for this size trailer would probably be F78-14 tires rated at 1440# each.

Brian

 

[rdln]

<font color="blue"> I definitely like your trailer specs but assumed he didn't want to spend more than about a grand for a smaller one or maybe $1400 if it were a 6x12.
</font>
True, but he was asking for my opinion on a "perfect" or "dream" 3500# cap. trailer and nobody mass produces my perfect trailer so a custom job would probably go for more.

<font color="blue"> The trailer I was referring to in my first post was listed as having a rear grated ramp. The one Steve was referring to is a tilt bed. You'll probably find both options in this size range. That one is a personal preference.
</font>
I am basing my opinion on the trailer my dad had built 30 years ago it has been through alot with 3 son's borrowing it and now I share it with my one brother who cobbled on an 18in addition to the front of the bed for his snowmobile which
makes it tough to manhandle now that I am getting older /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif due to the extra weight especially on the tongue. It tilts the same way that I describe, allowing gravity to aid in shoveling out material and the ramp angle it leaves is good for a quad but too steep for easily/safely loading a garden tractor thats where the removeable gate/ramp in combination with the tilt bed was mentioned. The tilt bed loading angle would be better with a longer bed. The gate on my dad's is just plywood that is pulled up from channels created from the rear of the angle iron upright and the end the plywood side, simple but it works.

I hesitate saying that the perfect trailer that size would have a true self contained 45deg dump bed because the extra steel needed would cut down load cap. by about 25% /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

<font color="blue"> I haven't experienced the tire issue Bill mentioned on my trailers. Mine rarely see the sun, but I have trailers in the size you're looking at with 15-20 years on them. </font>

Right on, the wheels and tires on that trailer now were original on my brother's 1987 Jeep Comanche and we are just now thinking of looking for another used pair.

 

[rdln]

That doesn't mean you cant stay in the right lane doing 55mph. Besides 55 is max in Michigan with a trailer, might be in your state too.

 

[RobertN]

55mph while towing a trailer is the max in a lot of places. It is here in California. Don't ask me how I know for sure this is the case /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[RobertN]

There are already good replies. I'll add one thing; get lots of tie down hooks. Get more than you think you'll need. I really like having one every 1' all the way around the trailer.

This is one of my pet peeves; trucks and trailers without sufficient tiedowns. It ticks me off that you buy a $30-40k pickup truck and you get a little loop halfway to the bottom of the bed. Just try and securely tie off a load with those...

Oh, and get a spare. Most trailers do not come with them.