The surprising truth about motor oils

[5030]

John:

I'd never "roast" anyone, especially you, intentionally. Being at peace with yourself is a level unobtainable by 99% of the inhabitants of this globe of diversity we inhabit.

 

[CT_Tree_Guy]

<font color="blue">Being at peace with yourself is a level unobtainable by 99% of the inhabitants of this globe of diversity we inhabit. </font>

Daryl, IF that's true, it might easily explain why we don't have peace amongst ourselves, or amongst nations.

However, I sincerely hope that it is not true, and would like to gently offer to anyone reading this an observation of mine that while we cannot expect to change others (although it IS possible), we can surely change ourselves, as surely as the sun comes up in the east.

Peace, John

 

[Sully2]

John: Lets me start by saying that I agree that syn oils are "better" that conventional lubes! Period. The biggest problem I have with syns is the FACT that users of them attempt to persuade non users that they are miracle cures for STUPIDITY!

In your posted scenario..I dont blame the "crappy Rotella" as its been termed on this BB...I blame the STUPID *** operator that must not have paid any attention to the manual that came with the item.

Is/was 15W-40 the recommended oil to be used at that temps? If the "normal" temps at that time of year are constantly -5 or worse.I doubt it very seriously!

Why is it MILLIONS of semi drivers need to fire up rigs that are sitting for "X" hours at that sort of temps..and NEVER SPIN THE BEARINGS? Might they know something that "Joe Scumbag" doesnt know..or wasnt paying attention to?
If I were operating in the Antartic in the winter ( geeeezzzee!!) a whole barrel ful of "anybrand" 15W-40 is what Id be using for the bonfires...NOT as lubricants! But most definately..IF a person NEEDS the abilities that SYN oils proved..by all means use them..
1) They ARE NOT to be used to extended time interval oil changes.
2) They are NOT to be used as a cure for "recto cranial inversion".
3) They wont extend the "life " of the engine one iota further that the MAXIMUM designed life..regardless of what th "oil peddelers" tall ya. Either that or Ive been buying the wrong dammed diesel engines ( Cummins and Kubota) Id have to belive that the engineer and designers of the engines themselves have a pretty decent grip o the MAX lifetimes of their engines.

No brag..just fact! No "magic charts..just a "bazillion" hours of diesel engines world wide running. "Joe's Magic air filters" dont work a ****** bit better that the one specified by the engine maker. And syn oils cant handle an operator that abuses the equipment...that is unless you believe all the TV commercials where they drain ALL of the oil out of a motor that had "Bill's Mystery Go-Juice" put in it before hand!

 

[CT_Tree_Guy]

Hiya Sully, how goes it?

I want you to know that I totally agree with just about everything that you just said, and that we're pretty much on the same page.

I do have a strong feeling that the bearing wouldn't have spun if the engine had a top-quality synthetic in it, due to the superior cold-weather characteristics of synthetics, but again, I could be wrong. And I agree with you that there are morons everywhere who shouldn't be allowed to operate a can opener, let alone a D8 dozer. It's just a sad fact of life that morons are everywhere, and the particular guy who owns that ill-fated D8 has no choice but to delegate responsibility to some of them. To me, that's just one more reason for him to cover as many bases as possible and run synthetics in ALL his stuff, so things like this will be less likely to happen.

The one part of your post that I would like to gently disagree with you is where you say that synthetics won't increase the life of an engine at all, all things being equal. (No morons, proper operating practices, and proper maintenance. And I agree with you about not extending drain intervals when using synthetics - get the crap out of your engine, I say).

It just seems to me that in the long run, using (top quality) synthetics as opposed to (top quality) conventional oil will decrease the wear on engine parts, for a variety of reasons, but also just from improved lubrication at start-up alone (cold weather or not).

Again, it comes down to economics. Is it worth it? There's the debate. But it just seems to me that the (seemingly indisputable) "fact" that synthetics are just plain better at doing the job that a lubricant is supposed to do has got to result in reduced wear, and therefore extended engine life.

If I'm wrong, I'm wrong. I'm always willing to learn, and I love getting at the "truth".

John

 

[Sully2]

Yep..yep!

I "had" to go to SYN oils for my toy Kubota. No "dino" oil around that was diesel rated...except for Kubota's own "rip off" at $3.10 a qt. I went with the "crappy" Rotella SYN ( 5W-40) and I wont have any fears about going to the max oil change hrs ( 200 I think??)

Its costs me another $8 a gallon...but the tractor is worth the extra $8....

 

[Bird]

OK, Daryl, I took some of the blue out of your earlier post. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif Is that better? /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif And do you think Quaker State motor oil was what caused the thick, dark brown, goo in that 350 Chevy? I don't know, but I do know I used Quaker State 10W-30 and later 10W-40 for 20 years with never a problem. Admittedly some of the vehicles didn't have a lot of miles on them when I got rid of them, but the '82 Isuzu diesel had 150k on it and still ran like new, but the body was rusting and the upholstery was worn out. The '93 Escort had 121k when my wife rolled it and totalled it, but it, too, was still running like new. Now as to whether there were "better" oils that I could have used; I don't know.

 

[Sully2]

</font><font color="blueclass=small">( OK, Daryl, I took some of the blue out of your earlier post. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif Is that better? /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif And do you think Quaker State motor oil was what caused the thick, dark brown, goo in that 350 Chevy? I don't know, but I do know I used Quaker State 10W-30 and later 10W-40 for 20 years with never a problem. Admittedly some of the vehicles didn't have a lot of miles on them when I got rid of them, but the '82 Isuzu diesel had 150k on it and still ran like new, but the body was rusting and the upholstery was worn out. The '93 Escort had 121k when my wife rolled it and totalled it, but it, too, was still running like new. Now as to whether there were "better" oils that I could have used; I don't know. )</font>

I saw the exact same thing with a guy that used Valvolene. The valve cover acted like a "jello mold" for the sludge... Pried th valve cover off it and the rocker arms were moving in a grooved out areas in the semi solid mass of ?? sludge??

 

[CT_Tree_Guy]

<font color="blue"> Pre-lubers on your chainsaws???? There is an engine that goes from start to WOT right away. </font>

Dang, now why didn't I think of that??!! Plus, it'll help keep the turbo's cool! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[HGM]

Sully,
Very well put about the synthetics..... For hydraulics, they are a great idea. Motor oil,well, to each his own....Havent heard about Valvoline problems though..

Bird,
Some of the worst sludging I have ever seen in engines have been linked to Quaker State oil(early '90s).. I have been told they are better, but my gut wont let me knowingly use it anymore. I say knowingly because I dont have a problem with letting the tire shop change my oil when they rotate the tires every 6-7000mi, with whatever bulk oil they use. 160,000mi and counting.... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif..

 

[5030]

Bird:

Thanks for the "blue away". Sometimes I just can't figure out how to circumnavigate this site, even after this long. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

The 350 I am referring to was bought used. It was a 350 4 bolt in a C30 one ton stake truck that I bought for the farm some years back (when fuel was cheap and so was I!!).

I had suspected that the previous owner neglected the oil changes as well as the grease gun as I had to put in ball joints and tie rod ends straightaway and I suspect the goo was from not changing the oil in a timely manner as well as a plugged PCV valve. I still remember it was nasty. Looked like EasyOff oven cleaner and about the same consistency too. The kerosene flush got rid of the goo and the lifter noise too. I haven't used kerosene for a long time, I just change the oil at the specified intervals now.

I use Mystic JT8 15-40 in the farm equipment and my Powerstroke, Motorcraft 5-30 semi synthetic in my SUV and my wifes Ranger, Amsoil 5-30 in the standby genset (recommended by Generac), Amsoil 20-50 in my Triumph. JT8 in all the small engines (lawnmower, quad, pressure washer, portable generator, Amsoil 2 stroke synthetic in the sleds, chainsaws, weed wackers and gas hedge trimmer. Grease wise, I use about 5 types depending on what type of equipment. For general greasing I use a full synthetic that I get in 150 pound open headed drums for my air greaser. Finally, I use Shell Spirax 85-140 GL5 gear oil in all my final drives. In the shop, I use Mobil Rarus 427 VG100 ISO compressor oil in the reciprocating compressors, Shell Donax light viscosity spindle oil in the lathe, grinder and vertical mill gearboxes and final drives and Harig high surface film way oil for all the slideways. Flood coolant chores are handled by Valenite VT 700 synthetic water solubile coolant and mist coolant is Kool Mist water soluble synthetic coolant. I always try to buy my lubricants in 5 gallon pails and greases in bulk.

I think, without going to the shop and looking at the inventory, that about covers all my oils and lubricants. I like to be diversified......oh, I forgot, I also have a gallon or two of Marvel Mystery Oil on the shelf. Nice stuff for wiping down machinery and keep tarnish off precision surfaces.