Thanks for all the good ideas on here - you folks are terrific! I can easily get an inch or two of crusher dust added to the top to help. I'm noticing no one is really suggesting a sickle mower for mowing. Are these old school? The grading will probably be my biggest challege for the best choice of implement but love some of the choices you've tossed out. I'm going to write to a couple of mfg's of skid steer mounted sanders to find out their hydraulic requirements for a sander. I have a John Deere loader but believe I can buy a plate to convert to Skid Steer implements to put the sander on the front end loader. My tractor has a little over 10gpm hydrualic flow but I'm not sure how much is actually getting to the 3rd valve set on the loader. Do I really need to fill 5 gallon buckets up to measure the flow (sounds like a pain, messy and chance to contaminate the oil) or can the dealer through a device on to measure the gpm on it?
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- Thread starter lbaxterh
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CADplans
Elite Member
If you pump the oil, it is done at your place, no tractor hauling, toss the oil, and replace,,,
COST $25
OR
Haul the tractor to a service shop, '
hope the dirty oil in their equipment does not contaminate the 10 gallons in your tractor.
Leave the machine for a few days until they get to it (setting outside)
Come back, pay the $125 shop fee, plus $25 for oil to "top off" the tractor.
Haul the tractor home,,, and hope nothing has been damaged,,, :confused2:
ovrszd
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lbaxterh, I have two rotary cutters, a Flail Mower and a Sickle Mower. I use all three types.
Rotary Cutter = Dependable, Durable, scruffy cut.
Flail Mower = Expensive to maintain, lot of moving parts, great cut if you keep up.
Sickle Mower = Fragile, considerable maintenance, lot of wear parts, leaves cut debris that will smother your growth if you let it get real tall and thick before cutting.
My consensus. Rotary Cutter will give you the best service with the least investment and with any degree of care will last your lifetime with minimal service.
Rotary Cutter = Dependable, Durable, scruffy cut.
Flail Mower = Expensive to maintain, lot of moving parts, great cut if you keep up.
Sickle Mower = Fragile, considerable maintenance, lot of wear parts, leaves cut debris that will smother your growth if you let it get real tall and thick before cutting.
My consensus. Rotary Cutter will give you the best service with the least investment and with any degree of care will last your lifetime with minimal service.
Which would you use to mow down the side of the road edge that you can't drive on? Also, What's the price of the sickle vs. flail mower?
lbaxterh, Your tractor has 10.2 GPM flow... all of it goes through your tractor that includes your 3ph. No need to measure anything to make sure it's 10 GPM... You would most likely run the pump dry and destroy it!!!
ovrszd
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I would use the Sickle Mower to mow where I can't drive. That's exactly why I have one.
I'm not a good person to discuss cost factors. I'm cheap.
I bought my Sickle Mower for $150, spent another $75 putting a new belt and new sections on it.
My Flail Mower was given to me, I spent $350 replacing bearings and installing new knives.
I bought my 6' Rotary Cutter for $650 and haven't spent a dime on it in repairs.
I bought my 10' Rotary Cutter for $1800 and spent $300 on it in upgrades and repairs.
A boom Flail Mower would scare the pants off ya for cost.
well 7 percent is a lot easier to work with as an average gradient, both for drainage and traction
I think adding topping would make it a lot easier to wok with, make sure the drainage is good so that the first few big rains don't ruin your investment. Maybe there is a local guy/excavator who is good with roads who could come out/ give advice and then do the work.
I think adding topping would make it a lot easier to wok with, make sure the drainage is good so that the first few big rains don't ruin your investment. Maybe there is a local guy/excavator who is good with roads who could come out/ give advice and then do the work.
powerscol
Veteran Member
A newer double acting sickle mower with hydraulics might work just a good as the flail, but it will leave long grass, while the flail mulches it. Most ar made in Europe now. Otherwise the IH 1300 is still a good choice as Rowse Rakes still uses the design in their units and still makes parts for them. They can be fitted with a hydraulic unit if desired. I have a 9' model and in getting old added the hydraulic rake. I got the flail mower to use in tighter spaces and with rougher material
As for the drive see if you can find concrete wash out material from your local concrete plant. It will be dusty at first, but then set up like concrete. You can also top dress with lime or fly ash and have it tighten up too if you grade it in the top inch or so. Over time it will work in. However to plow, set the plow on shoes about an inch high or if using you bucket keep the front lip high until the ground freezes. Good luck and hope this helps.
Also to prevent sliding off the drive, line the lower edge with buried RR ties with about 3 inches showing - will give you a stop edge. You need to fit the ends tight to prevent catch points, You could always build a berm too if there is room. That way if you do slide there is a catch point. I would also recommend a H pattern tire chain such as Trygg makes. They provide good side traction
As for the drive see if you can find concrete wash out material from your local concrete plant. It will be dusty at first, but then set up like concrete. You can also top dress with lime or fly ash and have it tighten up too if you grade it in the top inch or so. Over time it will work in. However to plow, set the plow on shoes about an inch high or if using you bucket keep the front lip high until the ground freezes. Good luck and hope this helps.
Also to prevent sliding off the drive, line the lower edge with buried RR ties with about 3 inches showing - will give you a stop edge. You need to fit the ends tight to prevent catch points, You could always build a berm too if there is room. That way if you do slide there is a catch point. I would also recommend a H pattern tire chain such as Trygg makes. They provide good side traction
For adding a "skim coat" to the road, in my experience, your best (cheapest, easiest) bet is to get your rock delivered by a competent driver that will spread it right out of the truck gate. They are usually surprisingly good at getting down an even coat.
RNeumann
Elite Member
I can speak to the grading part of the question as I have a similar driveway. I've had the best luck with a box scraper. I also have hydraulic top and tilt with hydraulic third function.
I'm assuming the hydraulics will also be useful for whatever over the side mower you get. Depending on the steepness of the sides the tilt function alone may do what you need.
With regards to spreading maybe a 12v spreader mounted to some pallet forks? In our area we would broadcast with an ATV but that's for de-icing not sand.
I'm assuming the hydraulics will also be useful for whatever over the side mower you get. Depending on the steepness of the sides the tilt function alone may do what you need.
With regards to spreading maybe a 12v spreader mounted to some pallet forks? In our area we would broadcast with an ATV but that's for de-icing not sand.
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