The Trifecta of Attachments

[powerscol]

For adding a "skim coat" to the road, in my experience, your best (cheapest, easiest) bet is to get your rock delivered by a competent driver that will spread it right out of the truck gate. They are usually surprisingly good at getting down an even coat.

They are few and far between here. Most don't know how to set the chains, let alone drive and lift the bed. I gave up and just have them set it in a pile at a turn out II have, then use my bucket and drop piles fro me to run the box blade through. I have a couple of curved 2x4's that I wire to the bottom of the box blade to place 1 1/2 inches, then take them off and dress it up. I wheel role with the tractor, and as I drive out I take a differant line,

One material I forgot to mention that is great for drives is asphalt millings - this is 3/4 minus material that come off the road when they are milled. Most is recycled, but around here when available is not much more that road base. You place it just like gravel.

 

[TO_Bud]

lbaxterh looking at the specs on your tractor for gpm I'm pretty sure you can use a Herd/Kasco sander, Skid Steer, Scoop and PTO Powered Sand/Salt Spreaders Kasco MFG . I have one and it works well for throwing sand. Their claim to fame is the ability of the sander to throw even wet sand. There is an auger in the bin that pulls the sand down through the spinner. They make a 3 pt model and a hydraulic model. I bought mine 4 or 5 years ago and they only offered it in the 3 pt model. I called them awhile back and asked if mine could be converted to hydraulic and it can be but the price was prohibitive in my opinion. If memory serves the hydro demand is 8 gpm so you should be good. For the price markup though I would stay with the 3 pt model.

 

[apriordan]

A bit late to the party, but what implement did you go with for maintaining your driveway. Mine is about 200-300yds long plus a 2-3 parking areas... I've got wicked potholes and driving over them in the truck is really getting on my nerves. Looking forward to more York rake, York + blade etc. discussion!

 

[IndyIan]

I've got a similar driveway, 1/4 mile with up to 10% slope in one spot and a pit run base of 8" or less round stone. I have put 3/4" minus in the flatter areas but its a pain to keep on the driveway in the winter and when it gets really dry in the summer.
What I like to do in the winter is plow with a 7' light (350lb) rear scraper blade with no skid shoes so it exposes gravel and rarely gets icy due to the sun melting most of the remaining snow so I've never had to sand in the 12 years we've been here. This removes almost none of the pit run base when the ground is frozen but the 3/4" gets plowed off if it doesn't freeze with moisture in it.
I haven't worked up the pit run base ever, but have put a crown on the road just using the light rear blade which skips over the big stuff and pulls some of the fines back into the middle. It doesn't make a pretty or especially smooth driveway but it doesn't have any pot holes either so its been good enough.
Some time I'll have to try a section of asphalt millings and see how they do, but I'm afraid they won't bind enough to resist my rear blade in winter plowing without skid shoes.

 

[apriordan]

I've got a similar driveway, 1/4 mile with up to 10% slope in one spot and a pit run base of 8" or less round stone. I have put 3/4" minus in the flatter areas but its a pain to keep on the driveway in the winter and when it gets really dry in the summer.
What I like to do in the winter is plow with a 7' light (350lb) rear scraper blade with no skid shoes so it exposes gravel and rarely gets icy due to the sun melting most of the remaining snow so I've never had to sand in the 12 years we've been here. This removes almost none of the pit run base when the ground is frozen but the 3/4" gets plowed off if it doesn't freeze with moisture in it.
I haven't worked up the pit run base ever, but have put a crown on the road just using the light rear blade which skips over the big stuff and pulls some of the fines back into the middle. It doesn't make a pretty or especially smooth driveway but it doesn't have any pot holes either so its been good enough.
Some time I'll have to try a section of asphalt millings and see how they do, but I'm afraid they won't bind enough to resist my rear blade in winter plowing without skid shoes.

The rear blade always made me nervous. Is it a box type?

 

[Jimmy in NC]

They are few and far between here. Most don't know how to set the chains, let alone drive and lift the bed. I gave up and just have them set it in a pile at a turn out II have, then use my bucket and drop piles fro me to run the box blade through. I have a couple of curved 2x4's that I wire to the bottom of the box blade to place 1 1/2 inches, then take them off and dress it up. I wheel role with the tractor, and as I drive out I take a differant line,

One material I forgot to mention that is great for drives is asphalt millings - this is 3/4 minus material that come off the road when they are milled. Most is recycled, but around here when available is not much more that road base. You place it just like gravel.

Owning two asphalt mills I suggest getting crushed asphalt if someone wants to go that direction. Millings are not screened and may contain large pieces the size of a grapefruit or larger. Once crushed and screened it is a great product, but also more expensive. In these times of higher oil prices we won't sell crushed asphalt as it is worth too much to us to run back through our asphalt plant.

 

[IndyIan]

The rear blade always made me nervous. Is it a box type?

Nope just a regular rear scraper blade. To crown the driveway I tilt it a bit and angle the blade so the loose material goes to the middle. I do a few passes each way as the scraper doesn't dig in much and then back drag the middle pile with the bucket in float and then pack a bit with the tractor. I do pick off the odd 3"+ rock that comes up but there isn't too many.
I have a 7' box blade which I use to spread new 3/4" crushed gravel but it rips into my base too much to crown with it.

 

[ovrszd]

Nope just a regular rear scraper blade. To crown the driveway I tilt it a bit and angle the blade so the loose material goes to the middle. I do a few passes each way as the scraper doesn't dig in much and then back drag the middle pile with the bucket in float and then pack a bit with the tractor. I do pick off the odd 3"+ rock that comes up but there isn't too many.
I have a 7' box blade which I use to spread new 3/4" crushed gravel but it rips into my base too much to crown with it.

An experienced operator can do some pretty work with a simple rear blade.

I've never had an expensive hydraulic rear blade. Always had to get off the tractor for adjustments and/or crank the right 3pt link to get tilt.

For a BB to be used to it's full potential TnT is needed. This allows some lateral movement of material by tilting the box.

 

[apriordan]

An experienced operator can do some pretty work with a simple rear blade.

I've never had an expensive hydraulic rear blade. Always had to get off the tractor for adjustments and/or crank the right 3pt link to get tilt.

For a BB to be used to it's full potential TnT is needed. This allows some lateral movement of material by tilting the box.

Do you recommend a particular type? Size? etc?

 

[ovrszd]

Do you recommend a particular type? Size? etc?

Welcome to TBN.

Rear blade?