The truth about Arched Steel Buildings...

[rox]

5030,
That is a huge building, colud you please post a picture of that when you have a bit of time.

 

[MotorSeven]

End wall pic's...

 

[mikim]

M7 - I can see framing that end wall was a real challenge -- but on the door rough out .... are you done on that or are you still working on it? From what I see it doesn't look like you have a good header there - and unless you put one in - the framing above that door will sag and you won't be able to open your french doors.

 

[EddieWalker]

MotorSeven,

Interesting challenge to frame out an arch. I've never done this, so it's something new to me that I've never even thought about. How are you going to finish of the exterior and interior walls?

The spacing and alignment of your lumber makes it look like you are not planing on using any traditional 4x8 sheeting.

Mike has a good point about your headers. Even though they are not load bearing for the roof, they are still supporting the weight of the wall above, plus spanning a sizable distance. How far are the rough openings?

Wood will start to sag fairlly quickly when placed over a span if it's undersized. When this happens, doors stop opening properly and siding begins to crack.

Is that a turkey in there? I'm sure it isn't, but it sure does look like one. hahaha

Eddie

 

[em14]

I agree with Eddie ... that sure looks like a Turkey!
Leo

 

[bucmeister]

weldingisfun,

You got your slab for $1200!! Man I need to talk to your crete company. Around here figuring 1500 sq ft of 4" slab with footings I see it taking about 20 yds +/- and with the concrete running $75 /yd "out the chute" it would cost $1500 without wire/fiber/rebar/forming/finishing costs. Concrete in the Lone Star State must be mucho cheaper. Count your blessings. I "need" to pour about 50 yards in three locations, but am holding off because of costs and my time.

 

[BTDT]

I agree with Eddie ... that sure looks like a Turkey!
Leo

I think its a cat. Look in the first pic, he is looking at dog on 4 wheeler. The one where it looks like a turkey in the middle of the floor, he is walking toward/away from camera with tail in the air. I had to go back and look myself.

 

[toolaholic]

I've been building for 45 years so far,gen.contr.
That end wall has no lateral strength ! With some, wind it will blow in and out ,I believe. Look for some heave guage metel studs. There nothing like you see at home d.

 

[pat32rf]

The strength of the end wall could come from whatever he is going to use to close it in. If it is sheathed on both sides with wood which is screwed on it might be a lot stronger than it looks.

 

[MotorSeven]

LOL...!

Jeeze, i didn't mean to stir y'all up. No it is not a Turkey or a cat, it's Annie our Welsh Terrier, although we do call her "Chimpannie" because she climbs anything, makes chimp-like sounds, crawls up and will sit on your shoulder...etcetc.
Now for the framing: it is 2x6 PT. There is a double header above the french door opening, and there will also be a 2x6 on edge on the inside (supporting a 10x14 loft) and on the outsidea 2x8 supporting a 14x6 tin roof. You can't see it much in the photo, but i have used heavy galv strapping to lock the top of the wall, pulling it against the inside of an arch curve. The strapping spans 2 arches before being screwed to the wall. The 2x6 sole plate is bolted to the slab using a 1/2 x 8" red head every 2 feet. I am using 7/16 OSB on the outside and inside(no sheet rock), it's strength is length wise, so, no i did not frame it all the way around, and besides, it will only be supporting vinyl siding. Pic's to follow............
The angles were/are a challenge, because they are all different as you go up one side, so my wife and i made templates on the first side which we will use on the other 9 sides(2 outer walls and 1 interior wall). If it caves-in it's gonna take a heck of a wind..........

RD

 

[Coyote]

Where did you buy your building? I'm close to you in NC

 

[mj1angier]

I am just starting on my steel US Building. It is a 20x30 "A" style. I am going with the keyway channel.

 

[MotorSeven]

Coyote- US Buildings, their factory is in Boone NC.
MJ- I'm curious as to how the "Keyway" channel works out for ya, let me know.

Also, i guess my framing looks a little eclectic...let me explain. I was going to go with board on board-1x8's 16' long, but the guy that was going to mill them(poplar) had a big order come in ahaed of mine, so i would have had to wait too long. While i was looking for another source, i found the 7/16 OSB at HD for $4.98 a sheet, so we decided to OSB it and go with vinyl siding. Anyway it is in.....

RD

And, yes, we ran out of tar paper....

 

[mj1angier]

Motor,
I got my building from Boone too. I went and picked it up on my trailer to save the shipping cost. I hope to start standing the sections up this weekend so I will let you know.

 

[EddieWalker]

With the windows and door in, it really looks nice!!! I really like that window on the top. Not sure why, but it does all something to the building that I wasn't expecting.

I the framing PT? All of it? From one of the pictures, it looks to have a green tint to it, but I don't know why you'd use PT wood for your framing? If you do for some reason, did you use hot dipped galvanized nails, or nails specially rated for the new Preasure Treating of the wood? If not, you might want to add some nails or screws to your OSB and the lumber it'self as the chemicals in the PT wood will corrode the fasteners away in just a few years. Or so I'm told and I've read.

Are you going all the way to the ground with the siding? or are you going to put a nice brick or rock wainscoating along the bottom?

Eddie

 

[MotorSeven]

Eddie,

Yep, all PT 2x6 & Galv nails. I guess i want it to last a couple of years..... !I'm going all the way to the ground with the siding. That hole to the left of the upper window is for the A/C. Since i am not a fan of sheetrock we decided to do the inside walls with the OSB and trowel on joint compound in a random swirl pattern, then paint. I'm about 75 yds from a creek and in the "100 yr" flood in the late 70's the floor of the building would have been under a foot or so of water. Do to that, my wife decided to polish & stain the concrete floor and paint a border or pattern onto it. That way if we ever get wet we can sweep it out once the tide recedes. Siding starts to go on 2morrow, pic's to follow.

RD

 

[TNhobbyfarmer]

M7.....I am curious when you plan to start your cedar log house. How big will it be? Will you saw your own logs? What size logs? Please post pics of that project when it starts.

I built a log house on my property. It is a weekend getaway, 36' X 28', pine logs cut into 6" X 7" rectangles. The trees were cut on the property and sawed on a portable Woodmizer mill. It was a fun/hard project.

 

[MotorSeven]

TN,
I wil start cutting and skidding my cedars this summer. I have a Woodbug chainsaw mill and a 066 Stihl, which i will take 3 slabs off each log leaving them square on 3 sides. I havent drawn it out to scale yet, but it will be in the 30x40 range, hopefully on a full basement (if the limestone cooperates) & with a loft. I figure 220 10' logs, which in these small cedars is 220 trees. That's not counting joists, beams or tie poles, which will add to the #. I will post a new thread when i start that project.......

Heck....a weekend getaway.......28x36? Awesome!.....Pic's please.........!
I completly understand the "fun/hard" statement.....been there/done that...and am doing it again.........More to Come!

RD

 

[MotorSeven]

The apt end is done....now for the street side.......

 

[MotorSeven]

The streetside barn door frame/pin idea that i came up with...(don't look at the welds!....i had to use my 110v unit and they ain't pretty ) The 7/8 pin is 4" into the concrete resting on a 1/4" nylon washer and the hole is filled with grease. The doors are 6x12' each, framed with 2x2 3/16 angle. I will cross brace them later when my Millermatic 210 has something to plug into(still on temp pole)
RD