Think I just tore my clutch out. ford 1520

[JC-jetro]

the larger splined disc is for the PTO smaller for the transmission.

So the inner solid shaft is for the transmission, right? what's your next move?

I would not paint it as the adhesion would not be there. The paint will flake off and adds to contaminate in there. I'd probably sand blast good in combination with wire brush on side grinder. I'd make sure PTO spring has spring in it and can move in and out first. I'd then brush the cast parts with some diesel oil and let it roast in the sun for a day. That dried up layer of diesel does a good just keeping rust at bay. Rust on the outside of the assembly can do much harm as long as pressure plate/spring can freely move in and out by manipulation of the fingers.


JC,

 

[barryb77]

Yes the inner solid shaft is the transmission. I was only thinking of painting the outside of the cast pieces. Don't think I'll paint it. The spring seems ok. I'll do some ore testing after I clean it up. My plans are Clean everything up, the disc look fine, they have alot of life left in them. Since I'm on a tight budget, and it really didn't take me a real long time to get it apart. I'll most likely reuse the clutch disc. I have a sand blast cabinet so,I will put the parts in my blast cabinet and really clean the parts up. also take a file to where the plates slide, and clearance them ever so slightly.to clearance thme just a little bit more, if the sanding the rust off isn't enough. I like the diesel idea, I do believe I will do that trick.

 

[JC-jetro]

I Think you'll be okay. Can't see major damage done. I'd make sure all the pivot points are nice and clean. I'd make sure the pins at the pivot point have some lubricant, maybe spray type graphite. The spring behind pressure plate is diaphragm type spring., just make sure it can flex. If the pressure plate travels in and out, and you have enough thickness left in the disk, as you tighten the bolts that attaches assembly to flywheel the fingers should move inward. After you torqued all the bolts to flywheel like you should and if the fingers are all away from the assembly (outward) then there is something wrong. Basically you have no adjustment left in that fix.



good luck,

JC,


ps, Barry I see that there is 6 bolts that attaches the whole assembly to the flywheel. How is 1st and second stage pressure plate assembly are attached? I see the dowel pins there between two stages and more than 6 holes there. did you take a pic that shows how to pieces are attached?

 

[JC-jetro]

Barry,


I thought of something about your work. Most likely the lining of your clutch and pto is (ACM) asbestos containing material. The fibers are much finer than the sand and your filtration system for the sandblaster. If I were you,I'd reduce my exposure to asbestos. I'd probably dig a shallow hole in the ground, put a plank across it, lay the components on the plank, power wash them all to get all the lose asbestos washed off in the hole. I'd put the dirt back in the hole so non of the acm can be airborne. I'd dry the component in the sun before sand blasting them. I'm afraid you might not have the HEPA filter for the sandblaster and the sand ends up being contaminated as well. Just FYI.

JC,

 

[barryb77]

The fingers have linkage that holds the assembly together. Hope I'm a answering this correctly for you. The "arms" wrap up the side and over the assembly. Then fingers have a dowel pin that holds that in place. I stopped in the clutch place today. He told me he doesn't know why, but every compact tractor clutch he has rebuilt always looked like it was pulled from the lake. And are notorious for getting stuck. So I am pretty sure that is what my problem is. so when I get some spare time and energy. I'll be working on cleaning it up, and making sure the clearances are good.
P.S. Thanks for the heads up on the asbestos. Don't need that floating around the air.

 

[JC-jetro]

The fingers have linkage that holds the assembly together. Hope I'm a answering this correctly for you. The "arms" wrap up the side and over the assembly. Then fingers have a dowel pin that holds that in place. I stopped in the clutch place today. He told me he doesn't know why, but every compact tractor clutch he has rebuilt always looked like it was pulled from the lake. And are notorious for getting stuck. So I am pretty sure that is what my problem is. so when I get some spare time and energy. I'll be working on cleaning it up, and making sure the clearances are good.
P.S. Thanks for the heads up on the asbestos. Don't need that floating around the air.

Ok. got it. That was my assessment of situation. I think it'll be just fine when you put it all together once you get it properly cleaned. Asbestos fiber are so aerodynamic and light that the pulverized pieces can stay afloat for years without coming down.

Good luck,
JC,

 

[barryb77]

Well its been awhile, but I did work on cleaning the clutch unit up. I took a file and filed down the rust from the sliding points. Everything was nice and loose so to speak. I had some dry lubricant, It goes on wet but puts a dry film on the metal, hopefully that will help prevent further problems later than sooner. As far as I can tell, the only real problem with the clutch unit is that it was rusty. and not moving freely.
The biggest problem I'm facing now is to get the 2 pieces of the tractor back together.

 

[JC-jetro]

Barry,

I have moved myself and have seen professional move massive pieces of equipment or dismantle and put back together with much success. The common denominator always appeared to be using mechanical advantage, using brain and never bruit force. I have done several car clutches but never a tractor yet. I have not seen how you rigged things up to separate both pieces (front and rear). If I were to do it , I'd keep the back end stationary by lowering an implement such as a carry all and lower it on a wood crate or something to make the back level and solid. I'd use an engine hoist and grab the motor side as close as I can to the bell housing. That would allow to lower and raise the front incrementally about the pivot point which would be the axle. I'd use a bar (such as a rock bar) to nudge the front back and fort. I would also might use caster to make a platform that allows movement left to right and back and back forth as well. The caster truck might have a jack stand on it to safely take the load close to flywheel. All of that should help you getting close to mate both pieces , lift up or down or left to right to line up the dowels. I'd make sure to use an aligning tool so clutch disks are well aligned with the input shaft so interference would not be a major issues.

Question on the disks, it looks to me you have to start with laying the transmission pressure plate on a flat surface put, put the transmission disk, then put the disk for the pto and then pressure plate for the pto. At this point you need to move the finger up and line it up with the pin holes, but in order for them to line up you need to squeeze the pressure plate together by using 3 C clamps. At the point you are able to put 3 pins in the holes where the fingers attache to the pressure plate and finish it by putting the cutter pins in place and then you have one clutch assembly. Do I have it right?

JC,

 

[barryb77]

No it wasn't real complicated. The disc that mates between the fly wheel and pressure plate is for the trans. The unit pretty much lined itself up. Once I started putting it together I was surprised at how well it did line up on its own. What I did when I separated the two pieces. I had a jack under the trans I blocked up the front to keep it from twisting. I then put a jack stand under it. I actually pushed the rear backwards to separate. I do have a cherry picker so I may give that a try If I don't get it back together. I have it pretty close but not closed up yet. I'll get it though. I wasn't planning on completely putting the machine back together 100%. I want to get it mated back together, put a few of the Bell housing bolts back in and snugged up. Then see how my cutch pedal feels. I'm hoping to have gotten that back. Thanks for your input JC.

 

[JC-jetro]

Barry,

I know the the clutch assembly lines with the flywheel as the screw holes on clutch pack and flywheel are fixed. My concerns was the disks in between that might not be perfectly centered causing interference between input shaft and clutch disks splines. As you tighten the bolts to flywheel the disks will be squeeze tight and won't move to allow input shaft mating if center of clutch disk is off from center of flywheel or the pilot bearing if you're rig has one.

JC,