Think I just tore my clutch out. ford 1520

[JC-jetro]

No, The hole is in a bad location, There is a lock nut to the left of the hole and thats at to steep of an angle to get a good grip with a open end wrench. I tried. Just don't want to mess anything else up. I should clean up my shop go ahead and get the tractor ready for the fix. Once I get to it, It shouldn't take that long. Since the clutch rebuilders are literally across the street from the office I work out of. And the owners of the clutch shop are my office managers nephews. Maybe I can sneak in there and get the family discount.

Nice,:thumbsup: I bet ya this work would be easier than working your mom's vehicle. It is so easy to get around and have access to all bolts. It would be great to have engine hoist for the front of the tractor. If you have a carry all then I'd put weigh on, put a wooden pallet on the back, back in to the pallet and lower the load on to where the tractor is as level as it can be. Might use would block and such that tractor is level with pressure on three point dissipated. Then all you got is to pull the front of tractor forward when you got the tractor splitted. You can use the engine hoist and jack stand to get the front steady. On my kubota shop manual they were using a wheeled jack stand to push a half back and forth effortlessly.

JC,

 

[cbumdumb]

I have rebuilt more than my share of these clutches bolts being a few thou out isn't that big of a deal . I am confused after reading all this if the clutch is slipping at all or was slow to engage . By the pictures you posted I see more surface rust than normal . How long did this tractor sit up before you got it . If the clutch isn't slipping I would run it and excersize it without load and see if it frees up some . When it delays in engageing does the clutch pedal seem slow to return ?
Is the clutch return spring under the floor board still attached ? If it is just rusted up you likely will have to work the crap out of the pedal to free it up .Also on the 20 series if I remember correctly there are grease zerts on the clutch housing where the shaft that actuates the throw out bearing .

 

[barryb77]

I have rebuilt more than my share of these clutches bolts being a few thou out isn't that big of a deal . I am confused after reading all this if the clutch is slipping at all or was slow to engage . By the pictures you posted I see more surface rust than normal . How long did this tractor sit up before you got it . If the clutch isn't slipping I would run it and excersize it without load and see if it frees up some . When it delays in engageing does the clutch pedal seem slow to return ?
Is the clutch return spring under the floor board still attached ? If it is just rusted up you likely will have to work the crap out of the pedal to free it up .Also on the 20 series if I remember correctly there are grease zerts on the clutch housing where the shaft that actuates the throw out bearing .

The tractor wasn't used daily, but it was used regularly. I had been working with it for awhile when what ever it did happened. The only thing I did different that day was go around the tractor and grease everything up. It was working fine, until I had the incident on the hill while moving a pretty heavy scraper blade. It is really hard to describe exactly what happened, because I really dont remember what happened right before the clutch started acting up. I'll try to describe what I do remember. I was backing up the hill, with said load. I was going from reverse to first or 2nd. I had it in gear with my foot on the clutch. My foot must have slipped off the brake pedal. because that is when it freewheeled down the hill about 15-20 feet. but during that freewheel, I heard a whine coming from the tranmission. like the sound gears make when spinning pretty fast. I was going down hill to where I was sitting the scraper blade. When I went to back up from that, is when I noticed something was wrong with the clutch. I could let out on the pedal, and it wouldn't move, I can give some throttle and it would start to move, but like its clutch slipping. I went to move another smaller piece. I let clutch out, and I felt a kinda voilent vibration, only did that once. Something isn't right, and for it to happen that quick tells me something is broke or etc.

To answer some of your questions, yes the clutch pedal itself returns freely. return spring is intact. I too was a little concerned about the amount of rust on clutch unit..
I had just greased that zert you mentioned. because I do have a sticking left brake pedal. I am trying to free that up. You never know, maybe there was something already broke, by me greasing up the works, might have caused it to really show itself. I really don't mind tearing the tractor apart. I kinda enjoy doing project like these. When my free time allows it. that is. When I tear into it for the clutch that sticky brake pedal is going to seize to exist.

 

[barryb77]

Alright, I finally got my Mothers Honda put back together and running. So I was cleaning up the shop and started backing the tractor in, wouldn't you know it. The roll bar is about an inch to high to clear the door. It was getting late so I'll unbolt that tomorrow evening maybe. Back it in and start tearing into this clutch issue. I'll post up pics of my findings when I get to that point. Long and drawn out process, but I am getting it done. slowly but it is getting there.

 

[JC-jetro]

Cool. Good luck. looking forward for yo to share your experience with the work.


JC,

 

[barryb77]

ALrighty!! heres what I got. Doesn't appear to be really much anything wrong with the disc themselves. Tractor split the clutch pedal moves freely just has the return spring tension. What I am thinking, is that the pieces of the pressure plate are binding up not letting the clutch work properly. What makes me think this, is because when I was removing the pins for the fingers. I had put 3 c clamps around it, to keep it from flying apart. I removed all the clamps and it didn't come apart until I tapped on it with a hammer to break it loose. In my opinion,( tell me if I'm wrong) These pieces should't be bound up.

 

[barryb77]

Oh, I should add, I spun the input shafts with my hand, put the tractor in gear, could tell it was trying to spin the tires. Also the PTO, the output shaft spun. so the hard parts seem to be working properly.

 

[JC-jetro]

Oh, I should add, I spun the input shafts with my hand, put the tractor in gear, could tell it was trying to spin the tires. Also the PTO, the output shaft spun. so the hard parts seem to be working properly.

Nice, I think the back end as far as transmission input shaft and pto shafts are working like they should. My first impression of the whole assembly is "lots of rust"!! I wondered if this tractor was partially submerged in water at some point. I would have done the same as you have done by using 2 or 3 c clamps and secured the assembly before attempting to take out PTO clutch. I'm sure taking off the whole assembly off of flywheel you slowly loosened the bolts off in a criss cross pattern not to put undue pressure on the spring assembly. I wonderd if you could put a piece of 2 by something on the pressure plate assembly for the pto and use two clamp to see if there is any spring action. My guess is this thing was frozen shut due to rust? did you get a new clutch set? how much clutch disk thickness you got? pressure plate surfaces look good and just need a bit cleaning. How much effort did you put to split them?

I wish there was easy way to manipulate 3 fingers evenly so you could clean things up , put old clutch together and did a dry run without putting two side of tractor together.

Good job so far Barry:thumbsup:

JC,

Ps. So the disk with the larger spline was for the transmission and smaller for the pto? right?

 

[barryb77]

The rusty part has me baffled as well. The tractor has sat out in the rain a few times, It usually has been parked in a barn. I was considering sandbalsting all the parts, and putting some paint on the parts to prevent future rust. clean up all the surfaces where the plates are suppose to move freely. Even though the disc appear to have good thickness. Not sure what the thickness tolerance is supposed to be?

 

[barryb77]

the larger splined disc is for the PTO smaller for the transmission.