Think tank advice

[Egon]

Egon, I'm trying to picture just what you mean.

The fellow following my post attached a picture of one of the methods I was thinking of. Mine would have been out farther and a little taller. They could be triangular shaped to give support on the trailer bed and be able to lock them down.

The other method , sliding ramps may be quite simple. Mk trailer has ramp storage on the side onto which the ramps are slid. Of course I have to take them off and carry them around to the side.

This type of method should be adaptable to the rear using a winch and cable to slide out or retrieve the ramp. Both ramps may have to be connected together and set up so that at in the extended position they are supported and locked in place. There could be many different versions of doing this.

If this does not make sense I can take pencil and paper in hand and produce a very rough copy.

 

[AlanB]

The ones I bought for work were "back Savers"

(and they are)

BackSaver Tailgate Assist * Installation Info

I have them on two of our trailers with very heavy gates. I modeled mine after them, with modifications to fix what I see as problems with their parts, specifically the plastic outfeed rollers that the cable runs over.

 

[SkunkWerX]

AlanB,

You Da Man! I had been looking at the Gorilla Lifts, thinking all along, that there had to be a way to fabricate them. I had been thinking about using old school garage door springs.

Anymore info on the ones you fabricated would be great.

thanks!

 

[AlanB]

I can take some pictures tonight I think (have to go see my son's teacher though, so maybe not)

I went to Lowes and bought a pair of the heavy springs. They come in different weights, and they had an assortment there.

I used 2" square tubing to enclose the springs, so nobodys hands etc could get in there.

At the end, I added another peice of tubing (this will take a picture to explain) but basicly the only sheaves I found were these

1.5"Dx7/16"Thk1/2"Hole 3/16"Cable 525Lb-WLLSheave w/BrnzBush | Fastenal

I made up some Aircraft cables with eyes on the end, hooked one eye over the spring, then the other (if I remember right, I C clamped to test) then bolted through the side of my tailgate frame.

I wanted my springs encased.

I wanted heavy steel for the tube so I can add tie downs on them which I have never done and my DW was uh,,, reminding me that I needed to do.

I wanted nice sheaves in place to keep the cables going in the right place and not binding.

I wanted to be able to easily disconnect from the tailgate as we take ours off fairly often.

The only other caution I have (and you can believe this or not) was that the wife, on the first day of use, reached down and grabbed the gate, forgetting about the lifts.... She jerked up on the gate like she would have the day before and hit herself in the face with the gate, darn near knocking herself out. She was PISSSED when she got home... my laughing did not help much either.

Will try and grab some pictures.

 

[bones1]

Thanks Alan.Can't wait to see the pictures.Do you think a setup like yours could be made to work mounted under the trailer pulling the bottom of the ramp?.

 

[AlanB]

Not sure I follow, the spring is overcoming gravity on mine, is there something pulling your ramps "up"? like a spring or winch or something?

 

[bones1]

No Alan.I just need to mount below the trailer deck and was wondering if there was a way to attach the spring to the bottom, below the pivot point, of the ramps but that might work backwards I think.I may have just qualified for the dumb question of the day award.

 

[bones1]

Another company.....eLegator Utility Trailer Gate Lift Kit little pricey for a spring.

 

[SkunkWerX]

Well, this won't get rid of the springs, enclosure boxes, or cables, but...

I am thinking about a hybrid model, take AlanB's design, then weld a flange or bar to the bottom of the tailgate, and fasten a linear actuactor to the flange. Since the springs are overcoming most of the force of gravity, the linear actuator should be able to handle both UP and DOWN , with no more than a 12v supply, and proper wire gauge.

My trailers & vehicles already have the 7 prong RV style trailer plug, so wiring the trailer for Power with a simple ON-off-ON (UP- off -DOWN) switch shouldn't be much effort.

Hmmm....thinking....

 

[bones1]

Well, this won't get rid of the springs, enclosure boxes, or cables, but...

I am thinking about a hybrid model, take AlanB's design, then weld a flange or bar to the bottom of the tailgate, and fasten a linear actuactor to the flange. Since the springs are overcoming most of the force of gravity, the linear actuator should be able to handle both UP and DOWN , with no more than a 12v supply, and proper wire gauge.

My trailers & vehicles already have the 7 prong RV style trailer plug, so wiring the trailer for Power with a simple ON-off-ON (UP- off -DOWN) switch shouldn't be much effort.

Hmmm....thinking....

Good idea skunkWerx....keep em coming...never thought about using both