This, that, and the other

   / This, that, and the other #131  
Harvey,

The stairs really are impressive. Once again, I was expecting one thing, and something much better appears that suprises me in how it comes together.

Very NICE !!!!!

Eddie
 
   / This, that, and the other #132  
Harv, The stairs are very nice but I have a question and a comment. First the comment... The first several pictures I looked at made the balusters look like rebar to me. I couldn't accept that as being your work and was happy to see the balusters better in another picture where I could see they were NOT rebar.

The question... Did you do anything special to toughen the surface of the wood where it will be walked on? A concern I have had using eastern red cedar (juniperus virginiana, actually a juniper tree complete with juniper berries) is the ease of scratching or dimpling the surface. I have been considering using a heavy epoxy coating like a bar topping with good scuff and wear resistance but thought I better check with you before I gallop off in all the wrong directions.

I finally traded enough email with the pitless cattle guard folks to get price info. I guess I probably won't be ordering a bunch of those at a couple grand a pop. I'm sure I can build a suitable substitute if I can't live without the automatic feature.

Pat
 
   / This, that, and the other
  • Thread Starter
#133  
Pat, I'm not sure what kind of finish the client is going to use for the cedar flooring. He's looking at different flooring options for the rest of the flooring. One of those options is raw wood and in place finishing.

The ballusters are hammered tubing from King Metals.

I figured the cattle guards would be very expensive.
 
   / This, that, and the other #134  
Harv, you were right. My wife and I both said "WOW" at the finished product.

TxDon, you are brave! I was with you when you saw the big black cat. Probably a Jagurundi??? We know he's out there.
 
   / This, that, and the other #135  
patrick_g said:
The question... Did you do anything special to toughen the surface of the wood where it will be walked on? A concern I have had using eastern red cedar (juniperus virginiana, actually a juniper tree complete with juniper berries) is the ease of scratching or dimpling the surface. I have been considering using a heavy epoxy coating like a bar topping with good scuff and wear resistance but thought I better check with you before I gallop off in all the wrong directions.

Pat

My question is, Does the wood need to dry for a while prior to coating it with something?
 
   / This, that, and the other #136  
Kyle_in_Tex said:
My question is, Does the wood need to dry for a while prior to coating it with something?

Kyle, Yes indeed, it is best to let it dry thoroughly before building with it in situations where a good fit is important as the wood shrinks along and across the grain. Some guys say about a year per inch of thickness but that is a midrange rule of thumb that is not good for really thin or really thick pieces.

If you were building, say, stair treads bolted to steel frame with risers where shrinkage would not be visible then you could shorten the drying time but you do want to let enough moisture escape so the finish isn't hurt or rot isn't promoted by trapped moisture.

I use "OOPS" paint (mis-tint paint sold super cheap at the big box stores where the employees are not good color matchers) to coat the ends of my logs. Then when they are sawn up into individual pieces they are already painted on the ends (I don't have the ends cut square) You want to seal the ends of the wood ASAP after harvesting as the end grain dries much faster than the sides of the wood and the drying promotes cracks in the ends. Painting the ends before drying reduces the cracking considerably. I do it to the log as it is quicker and easier than painting all the individual boards.

If your rough cedar lumber is cut to 1" for planing to 3/4 later then if a little shrinkage is not a problem for your particular application then 6 mo should be OK. A lot of drying time depends on relative humidity, air movement, and temperature as well as species and thickness.

I have planed and used some cedar in less than a week after cutting the tree but you have to accept the risks and not require precision fits.

I have used both polyurethane and cab acrylic on cedar dried less than a year ( an inch or less finished dimension) and now a few years later it looks like it was just finished yesterday and no problems at all.

Pat
 
   / This, that, and the other #137  
mikim said:
Don -- what about putting the cattle guard out close to the road then the gate 50' inside? There wouldn't be any issue then of one getting in the way of the other. What I'm saying is - put the guard inline with the current fence (such as it is) then run new fence to the gate 50 - 60 feet from the wings of the guard.

Mike, at the front fence line I have a 35' opening. Several big trucks and trailers use every inch of that when turning from the 20' wide gravel road onto the property. I would need a 35' cattle guard. I hope after they get 50' inside they will only need a 16' opening. If anyone thinks differently PLEASE let me know very soon.

Let's add some tractor pictures to this thread!

Today I spread 45 yards of gravel on the first 100 yards of entry. I made the road wider and moved it east 6'.
I started off with the blade to cut in the ditches and ended up with the box blade to distribute and smooth the gravel. Pictures below.

Harvey below is a picture of the cattle guard we need to gate after it is in place. We may or may not have to modify the wings for the gate swing.
 

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   / This, that, and the other #139  
txdon said:
Today I spread 45 yards of gravel on the first 100 yards of entry. I made the road wider and moved it east 6'.
I started off with the blade to cut in the ditches and ended up with the box blade to distribute and smooth the gravel. Pictures below.

Don, as I remember, your county road is a bit of a "challenge." Your driveway looks far nicer than the road. Now, all you need is for Ron to come down and drive his motorhome over it a few times to really get it packed before the spring rains. It looks to me like your gravel is 6"-8" thick, maybe more.
 
   / This, that, and the other #140  
TXDon, Maybe you could set the cattle guard back away from the road farther and fence on both sides at an angle that would accomodate the trucks. The cattle guard would only need to be as wide as the driveway (plus a little wiggle room) and any gate would only need to be as wide as the cattle guard so it would be much lighter/easier for manual or automated opening and closing. A side benefit would be that there would be plenty of room for you to get a pickup and trailer off the road while opening or closing the gate.

The reduction in cost of the cattle guard and gate will greatly exceed the cost of the diagonal fencing.

Pat
 

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