Tig break test.

   / Tig break test.
  • Thread Starter
#41  
With shipping so high it might be best to buy the Tweco fittings locally.

I tried the auto lenses that go inside a regular old hood, they're OK, but what I don't like about them is, if you have to move your heard around something while your welding they shut off! Don't know if the more expensive auto hoods do that or not, maybe they have more than one sensor, don't know. But I'll just stick to the old school hood with a Lincoln Super Visibility lens.

https://weldingsupply.securesites.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?PNUM::1:UNDEF:X:94251226
 

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   / Tig break test. #42  
Would a place like air liquide sell the tweco fittings?
 
   / Tig break test.
  • Thread Starter
#43  
Oh I'm sure they will, Tweco fittings are as common as buttons on a shirt. Here in the states anyway! ;)
 
   / Tig break test. #44  
With shipping so high it might be best to buy the Tweco fittings locally.

I tried the auto lenses that go inside a regular old hood, they're OK, but what I don't like about them is, if you have to move your heard around something while your welding they shut off! Don't know if the more expensive auto hoods do that or not, maybe they have more than one sensor, don't know. But I'll just stick to the old school hood with a Lincoln Super Visibility lens.

https://weldingsupply.securesites.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?PNUM::1:UNDEF:X:94251226
I was working at Browns Ferry nuclear one year and knew of a guy there that had talent in arts and painting. He made a good sideline of custom painting welders' hoods and he had some nice looking results too. About every welder on the job had a different paint scheme on their hood. I wish I had gotten some pictures of his work.
 
   / Tig break test. #45  
I have the PA160, and really like it. it is the PA200 little brother. I seldom need more than 130 amps. DC is to AC what night is to Daylight. Yes even the cheap 2 sensor auto-darkening hoods are worth it. yes you can cover up the sensors accidentley occasionaly. They make 4 sensor hoods, but they are more expensive. And of course the more expensive hoods have other nice features too. like TIG settings. Grind modes. etc. They will make a better welder out of you quick.. Maybe not if you are already a pro, but it you are just starting out, I would highly recommend one. even if it is only a $50 one is all you can afford. Scratching around in the dark is for cockroaches:) A man needs to see what he is doing. Maybe some of us have more practice feeling around in the dark than others. But for me I like to start those arcs somewhere near the workpiece:D By the way the PA160 was 269 from Mark a year ago.. I havent struck an AC arc on my Lincoln AC225 since then. I know good welders can do almost as good with AC, just a little more spatter, especially like with 6011, but I do so much better with DC.

James K0UA
 
   / Tig break test. #46  
The main reason I will get the pa200 insted of the 160 is that they are a special order in canada, and that will take alot longer to arrive. (the 200 only costs $25 more) Also when I am welding I get the rod right by where I will strike the arc, about 1 inch above the work piece. Then I just nod my head, the helmet drops, and I spark the arc. I normaly get the arc right where I want it. I think I will pass on an auto dark helmet for now, unless I find the fixed lense gets to be a pain.
 
   / Tig break test.
  • Thread Starter
#47  
All this talk about AC, so I tried some 7018 on AC this morning. It doesn't seem to wet out like on DC, and I just can't get by that sound. :laughing:
 

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   / Tig break test. #48  
I think 7018 is a dc rod, 6011 works very well with ac. I assume the sound you are talking about is the 60hz buzz, right?
 
   / Tig break test.
  • Thread Starter
#49  
I have a Lincoln Weldirectory right here in my hand. It says Jetweld LH70, Jetweld LH 73, Jetweld LH 75 MR, Jet-LH 78 MR, all 7018, all can be run on AC, or DC+.

I'm sure it is the 60 hz too. That's one thing I really like about my Dynasty, you can adjust from 20hz to 250hz.
 
   / Tig break test. #50  
Hmm I always thought 7018 was a dc rod, I guess not. Speeking of 7018, is there a way I can store it without a rod oven. I was thinking of an air tight box with desicant in the bottom of it, do you think that would work?
 
   / Tig break test.
  • Thread Starter
#51  
If you're not doing code work, or critical multiple pass welds don't worry about it.
But they run so much nicer when hot. You can always throw some in the kitchen oven a couple hours before using them.
 
   / Tig break test. #52  
You can always throw some in the kitchen oven a couple hours before using them.

My step mother would hit me with a frying pan if I did that.....
I might see if I can find a $5 toaster oven at a thrift shop to use for that.
 
   / Tig break test.
  • Thread Starter
#53  
That should work, anything to bring the rods up to temperature before welding. Also maybe pickup some of those plastic rod tubes everybody post links to. Store your rods in one of those until needed, then throw them into the oven a couple hours before using them. Makes a world of difference if 7018 is hot or not.
 
   / Tig break test. #54  
I think I will just make rod holders with pvc pipe, costs less and works.
 
   / Tig break test. #55  
Last week my ship came in and for once I was on the dock.There was an ad on the local radio's dial-a-deal section where an older lady was selling off her husbands shop tools. I got a primus 250e deca welder with scratch start tig add-on, electronic helmet, brand new apron, two sets of new gloves and a couple extension leads. all for 200 bucks. I also picked up a paint sprayer, air chisel, air impact driver 1/2 in, a box with a bunch of grinding discs and drill bits and another with a bunch of parts like gauges for torches for an additional 30 bucks. I grinned like a cheshire cat for days after. I replaced the ground clamp because the old one was heating up red hot when in use and I couldn't tighten it any more due to the damage done. I know that this isn't a top of the line welder or even close but it will do everything I expect from it and I finally have dc after using a tombstone for 30 yrs.
I have a bit of practising to do, it's been 10 yrs since I worked at a job where I did a lot of stainless tigging but I have never done aluminum and next to none regular steel. Now I can play properly.
 
   / Tig break test. #56  
Sounds like you got quite a good deal, let us know how it all works.:D
 
   / Tig break test.
  • Thread Starter
#57  
rockinmywaypa you have any pictures of that welder? I've never heard of a machine like that!
 
   / Tig break test. #59  
I don't right now but in the meantime just google"Primus 250e Deca welder" and you can go to their website and see a picture.

Got any pictures yet?
 
   / Tig break test. #60  
I don't right now but in the meantime just google"Primus 250e Deca welder" and you can go to their website and see a picture.

Googled your website. If the specs are correct then this may not be the best stick welder - have no idea about its Tig performance. Only 55 volts OCV (Open Circuit Voltage) on AC and even less on DC at only 50 OCV. Most Lincoln AC-225 buzzboxes are 79 OCV on AC which is actually the UL maximum limit for homeowner grade machines for safety sake.

In short the higher the OCV the easier the initial arc strikes are. I have a little 115 volt 50 amp transformer arc welder that I purcashed at a garage sale for $8. The OCV is only 45 volts. I can weld with it with small electrodes (1/16" or 5/64) but the initial arc strikes are sometimes difficult due to the low OCV and I limit the rods for this welder to the absolute easiest rods to run (mostly 6013) as not quite enough amps for most 7014 since 7014 like a few more amps than 6013 or even 6011 for that matter.

At the price you paid though you still got a bargain, but I would not be selling that Lincoln just yet.
 

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