Tig break test.

   / Tig break test.
  • Thread Starter
#41  
With shipping so high it might be best to buy the Tweco fittings locally.

I tried the auto lenses that go inside a regular old hood, they're OK, but what I don't like about them is, if you have to move your heard around something while your welding they shut off! Don't know if the more expensive auto hoods do that or not, maybe they have more than one sensor, don't know. But I'll just stick to the old school hood with a Lincoln Super Visibility lens.

https://weldingsupply.securesites.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?PNUM::1:UNDEF:X:94251226
 

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   / Tig break test. #42  
Would a place like air liquide sell the tweco fittings?
 
   / Tig break test.
  • Thread Starter
#43  
Oh I'm sure they will, Tweco fittings are as common as buttons on a shirt. Here in the states anyway! ;)
 
   / Tig break test. #44  
With shipping so high it might be best to buy the Tweco fittings locally.

I tried the auto lenses that go inside a regular old hood, they're OK, but what I don't like about them is, if you have to move your heard around something while your welding they shut off! Don't know if the more expensive auto hoods do that or not, maybe they have more than one sensor, don't know. But I'll just stick to the old school hood with a Lincoln Super Visibility lens.

https://weldingsupply.securesites.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?PNUM::1:UNDEF:X:94251226
I was working at Browns Ferry nuclear one year and knew of a guy there that had talent in arts and painting. He made a good sideline of custom painting welders' hoods and he had some nice looking results too. About every welder on the job had a different paint scheme on their hood. I wish I had gotten some pictures of his work.
 
   / Tig break test. #45  
I have the PA160, and really like it. it is the PA200 little brother. I seldom need more than 130 amps. DC is to AC what night is to Daylight. Yes even the cheap 2 sensor auto-darkening hoods are worth it. yes you can cover up the sensors accidentley occasionaly. They make 4 sensor hoods, but they are more expensive. And of course the more expensive hoods have other nice features too. like TIG settings. Grind modes. etc. They will make a better welder out of you quick.. Maybe not if you are already a pro, but it you are just starting out, I would highly recommend one. even if it is only a $50 one is all you can afford. Scratching around in the dark is for cockroaches:) A man needs to see what he is doing. Maybe some of us have more practice feeling around in the dark than others. But for me I like to start those arcs somewhere near the workpiece:D By the way the PA160 was 269 from Mark a year ago.. I havent struck an AC arc on my Lincoln AC225 since then. I know good welders can do almost as good with AC, just a little more spatter, especially like with 6011, but I do so much better with DC.

James K0UA
 
   / Tig break test. #46  
The main reason I will get the pa200 insted of the 160 is that they are a special order in canada, and that will take alot longer to arrive. (the 200 only costs $25 more) Also when I am welding I get the rod right by where I will strike the arc, about 1 inch above the work piece. Then I just nod my head, the helmet drops, and I spark the arc. I normaly get the arc right where I want it. I think I will pass on an auto dark helmet for now, unless I find the fixed lense gets to be a pain.
 
   / Tig break test.
  • Thread Starter
#47  
All this talk about AC, so I tried some 7018 on AC this morning. It doesn't seem to wet out like on DC, and I just can't get by that sound. :laughing:
 

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   / Tig break test. #48  
I think 7018 is a dc rod, 6011 works very well with ac. I assume the sound you are talking about is the 60hz buzz, right?
 
   / Tig break test.
  • Thread Starter
#49  
I have a Lincoln Weldirectory right here in my hand. It says Jetweld LH70, Jetweld LH 73, Jetweld LH 75 MR, Jet-LH 78 MR, all 7018, all can be run on AC, or DC+.

I'm sure it is the 60 hz too. That's one thing I really like about my Dynasty, you can adjust from 20hz to 250hz.
 
   / Tig break test. #50  
Hmm I always thought 7018 was a dc rod, I guess not. Speeking of 7018, is there a way I can store it without a rod oven. I was thinking of an air tight box with desicant in the bottom of it, do you think that would work?
 

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