Tilt hydraulic cylinders out of sync

[k0ua]

Glad you got it twisted back. Again, thanks for reporting in.

 

[Xfaxman]

2ntow, what forum was it in?

These may be the pictures that I posted, but I didn't bookmark the thread and can't find it now.

 

[2ntow]

Xfaxman -

Those are the exact pictures I used to fix mine! Here is the link:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...head-move-need-advice-loader.html#post4414455

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

I've done this a couple of times. Once by using a tree grabber and twisting forward dump on a to big for implement tree and I think my grapple was working and a limb lifted one of my lock down levers and one side came loose. The result is one lift arm was out about an inch past the other one and couldn't get bucket back on. Gary from Barlows told me to put a 2x4 behind one arm and whack the other arm with a big hammer. I've also tried pushing the long one against a tree but the 2x4 behind one arm and curl back did the trick a couple of times. The torsion bar looks bent but the bucket and other front attachments now go on like they did when new. Look like two wrongs makes it work or made mine work. :cool2:

 

[lennyzx11]

My 3301 did it also way back when I had a latch come off when moving brush.
I did the “push against the tree” method with one arm and it worked well.
It seems to be slightly off though so I’m going to try the shim between stops trick to make it better.
I was planning on cutting the torque tube eventually but it’s been working fine for about 3 years now.

 

[Smokeydog]

The ssqa on tractors are pretty wimpy. We mow with the bucket off with B26 to reduce wear and tear and help with maneuverability. Any bump will upset the timing. Had the grapple hydraulic lines sometimes unlatched the left side and bend the tube. Fixed the unlatching by bungee cord the lines to center of the loader torque tube. Only about a 1.25” round tube connecting the sides. Pretty weak. Can easily bend back or when connecting retract, curl back all the way will straighten enough to lock in the lower pins. If I did any cutting or welding to straighten it would be to replace the torque tube. 2” square tubing would be a better torque tube. Even calling it a torque tube is wrong. More of a spacer. It gets torque strength by being connected to an attachment. Guess the engineers didn’t plan for you to operate without some attachment.

Bush hog without attachment sometimes with the M59 without problems. Occasionally one side of the grapple will come unlatched but it is stout enough to spring back.

Bobcat ssqa yokes are much stouter built. Welded one to my M5030 loader before ssqa were common in tractors.

 

[Xfaxman]

Xfaxman -

Those are the exact pictures I used to fix mine! Here is the link:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...head-move-need-advice-loader.html#post4414455

:thumbsup:

Thanks. The link is bookmarked for next time I need it.

 

[Fallon]

Keep in mind that you ironically have more dump force than curl force when more curl force would be more useful most of the time. The reason is of course its there are more square inches for the fluid to develop pressure against because there is no rod on the cap side of the cylinder (dump side) with the rod in there on the rod side (curl side) of the double acting cylinder there just isn't the surface area to push against.

Not true on economy Ls & many other machines. Dump is regen only dump. It applies full hydraulic pressure to both sides of the cylinder. The but end has more surface area than the rod end & wins. You loose power, but the extra fluid from the rod end makes it dump faster. As both sides of the cylinder are pressurized when the bucket has maximum leverage it doesnt suck air in on worn seals. That eliminates the floppy bucket syndrome that's so embarasing.

Grands & others have a 4 stage valve with full power dump being all the way to the right after regend dump. Economy Ls are a 3 stage regent only dump. Useful info if you ever plan on putting a diverter in for a 3rd function.

 

[k0ua]

Not true on economy Ls & many other machines. Dump is regen only dump. It applies full hydraulic pressure to both sides of the cylinder. The but end has more surface area than the rod end & wins. You loose power, but the extra fluid from the rod end makes it dump faster. As both sides of the cylinder are pressurized when the bucket has maximum leverage it doesnt suck air in on worn seals. That eliminates the floppy bucket syndrome that's so embarasing.

Grands & others have a 4 stage valve with full power dump being all the way to the right after regend dump. Economy Ls are a 3 stage regent only dump. Useful info if you ever plan on putting a diverter in for a 3rd function.

Good to know, my Kioti has full power dump and regen dump as well. I wasn't aware that LS had "economized" on some models. What will bean counters think up next? Of course if you can cheapen up a valve, it will save money on the marketing war.

 

[Fallon]

Good to know, my Kioti has full power dump and regen dump as well. I wasn't aware that LS had "economized" on some models. What will bean counters think up next? Of course if you can cheapen up a valve, it will save money on the marketing war.

True. Regen dump works well for what it's suppose to do though. So if you can make something cheaper that solves 90% of users needs, they really should be doing it. Grands & others have the fancier 4 stage valves, but a price tag to match (and lots of other features). Really I rarely ever use power dump on my Grand even knowing it's there. The only big issue is if you put a diverter on there, motors & single acting cylinders wont work. The easy solution though is put the diverter on the lift circuit instead of curl. That valve behaves normally.