Tilt Trailer

   / Tilt Trailer #21  
Lets's see Torkflex seven thousand pound axles with brakes, my cost about two fifty each. Then ten ply radial take offs, a hundred a piece including wheels, Ford eight lug pattern, to put on the axle. That's nine hundred for what makes the contact between frame and the road.

Now if I was to build the ultimate equipment trailer........

I would start with eight thousand pound axles. The difference between seven and eights is about the difference between your wife's F150 short bed single cab and an F350 four door dually. The cost me about five plus each. Figure eleven hundred for a pair.

Then I'd want seventeen and a half inch wheels, Alcoa aluminum to match the ones on the truck. That's another thousand per axle for wheels and tires. I'd figure another five hundred for dual jacks, good pintle coupler, wiring, lights, safety tape etc.

I'd want it to be a twenty five footer with the back fifteen being a tilt with hydraulic shock assist. This would be the equipment only trailer.

BTW I have a twenty five foot Trailking with eight thousand pound axles. I replaced one axle and need to replace another, the price was right, the abuse wasn't evident. The eight thousand pound axle cost me over seven hundred dollars because we went with parts instead of assembly. But I was down and had to get back up asap.

I'd like to have another trailer, the same basic componets but a gooseneck and no tilt. This one would have the two eight thousand pound axles as wide as possible, 102 inch, for a belly bed for hauling the skid steer. Folding ramps with pockets on the sides for keeping attachments. Then between the belly bed and the front uprights of the gooseneck I'd want to have a dump bed. Sideways of course, nine feet long, eight and a half feet wide, dumping to the passenger side. I'd build the road side to fold down for loading materials with a forklift.

I used to be sold on goosenecks as the only trailer to have. You can turn around with them in places that other trailers leave you jammed. But I bought this Trailking with the pintle coupler and I've never been jammed yet. I like having my bed available for hauling other stuff. Even with the old truck and it's super wide turning radius I found the pintle preferable. The new one can turn tighter than most long bed pickups with an extended cab.
 
   / Tilt Trailer #22  
Gary, that sounds like a great design. Now I've got yet another reason to buy a welder.

Thanks,
SnowRidge
 
   / Tilt Trailer #23  
There you go. Just tell the CFO you need a welder so you can load your motorcycle safely. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

You might want to block out a little time to connect the dots, though. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
   / Tilt Trailer #24  
That's a nice looking trailer. I want one /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif For some reason trailers without side rails give me the heebie jeebies. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

I know you secure every thing with straps, but without the sides it seems like all your stuff would fly off. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
   / Tilt Trailer #25  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( For some reason trailers without side rails give me the heebie jeebies. )</font>

Me too /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

But, I got over it. I did switch to chains and load binders for the tractor because I found that if the straps rub on ANYTHING while under tension, they started to fray. Eventually, I will make some sort of hook arrangement to hold down the implements and weld it to the deck and re-inforce it underneath.

When the tractor is on the trailer, the parking brake is set and the load binders tightened, the tractor feels like a piece of the trailer. It can't move and feels very secure.

An advantage of no side rails is it allows me to load my implements from the side very easily. The Power Trac design has all of the implements mounted on the FEL arms, so I just raise them up and set them on the trailer, flip the quick disconnect lever and back away. With the implements accessible from the side, I can take any implement off with out moving other implements.

Another advantage of no permanent side rails is I have removable wooden 2X12 sides on the front half of the trailer. If I need to load it with dirt or gravel, I just drive right up the ramps and dump it at the front of the trailer, back off and do it again until I get the amount that I need. Then I load the tractor onto the back of the trailer, tarp the dirt, chain down the tractor, store the ramps and off I go /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

When I get to where I want to unload the dirt, if I can get the trailer near where I want, I just remove the wooden sides and push it off with a shovel. If I can't get near, I just use the FEL and use the ramps to drive up on the trailer, take a bucket full, back down, and repeat. The wooden sides act as a stopper so almost all of the dirt gets into the FEL bucket. Easy cleanup with a broom. And the steel deck means nothing drops through like it would with wooden floor boards.

One disadvantage of the steel deck is, even though it is diamond plate, it can get slippery. This makes it important to park on a flat surface. If I spin the wheels, I will slip towards the downward side. Fortunately, the trailer is very wide, so I just take my time and be safe.

The only things I want to add to the trailer right now are a large plastic toolbox on the tongue for chains, binders, straps, short handled shovels, tarps, a broom and more tie down points welded along the sides. It really is a good setup for a small tractor. I like it so much, that I am getting rid of my pickup truck this spring. One less motor to maintain and the plates and insurance are much less. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 

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