Why not? Bed too short?I bought a tilt bed. Really great for loading and unloading the tractor. I regret it because I can't load other stuff on the trailer and put the tractor behind it.
Why not? Bed too short?I bought a tilt bed. Really great for loading and unloading the tractor. I regret it because I can't load other stuff on the trailer and put the tractor behind it.
No, because the tie downs are on the frame and not the bed so you can't secure the items before tilting the bed to load the tractor.Why not? Bed too short?
That's an easy fix for trailer places, or friends. Just have D rings welded on, I did prior to driving it off the lot, didn't even cost anything extra.No, because the tie downs are on the frame and not the bed so you can't secure the items before tilting the bed to load the tractor.
I have those same rings on mine. Except the trailer tilts inside the frame while the frame stays stationaryThat's an easy fix for trailer places, or friends. Just have D rings welded on, I did prior to driving it off the lot, didn't even cost anything extra.
View attachment 854421
Hydraulic dove tail is the way to go. Ever since I got mine, my other trailer is used as a back up only. Such a back saver, and it applies down pressure so the trailer doesn't want to lift off the ball (mine is bumper pull) while loading.I picked up a Diamond C on Monday. They are indeed nicely built, and the 12' hydraulic dove tail sure makes loading and unloading easy.View attachment 857175
Unless you want to get your tractor and some form of tow behind implement on the trailer too. Good luck doing that with an hydraulic dovetail trailer.Hydraulic dove tail is the way to go. Ever since I got mine, my other trailer is used as a back up only. Such a back saver, and it applies down pressure so the trailer doesn't want to lift off the ball (mine is bumper pull) while loading.
Not sure why that couldn't work.Unless you want to get your tractor and some form of tow behind implement on the trailer too. Good luck doing that with an hydraulic dovetail trailer.
That's exactly the issue I face. In fact, I have to extend my 22ft trailer deck by 3ft this spring so that the M6060 and RC3712 will fit on. The disc fits without issue, but the RC3712 is long at 15ft-6in, and the transport wheels are set way towards the back. I calculated that with the front wheels of either the MX or M up against the front stop of the trailer, I need 22ft-9in and 23ft-11in of deck for the tractors and folding cutter respectively.Of course, if the distance from a tractor's rear axle to the wheels of what's pulled behind it is three or so feet longer than the dovetail it may not work out.
Hmm. My 18' little gooseneck with a 2' dove has removable fenders that I never had to remove.Have a 20ft utility 5th wheel tilt including dove tail.
Sometimes I don't even jack it up, just roll up to the trailer in 1st and walk the front tires up on the tilt then just drive on.
My only complaint is hauling cars and having to climb out the front door window, since you can't open the doors.
I'm not going to weld anything to the trailer. I'll use 2"x3" heavy walled tubing that will work with the stake pockets to support a cantilevered deck that will extend rearward 3ft.I would leave well enough alone (based on your photos) and just put a 2x4 or 4x4 under the mower to let its shell rest on it.
A lengthened trailer like you describe becomes almost impossible to sell. I had one built (time crunch, or I would've built it) for a cabover camper.
That meant the axles are placed a couple of feet farther forward than normal, which means it can't be loaded like a regular trailer.
And I also had the gooseneck made lower than a regular one so the camper could sit directly on the deck - which means it likely won't work with a typical pickup. Not an issue with my flatbed, though.
Anyway, if you lengthen yours, be prepared to cut it back down before selling it since many people don't think all that much anymore..
I agree everyone's needs are different. And I'm not trying to make a blanket statement. I was referring to the member I quoted and his hydraulic dove tail was a good choice. But I have driven onto the dove tail, then lifted it, then continued to drive forward. A couple extra steps in some cases I admit. So I agree with you on everyone needs to go with what best suits their needsUnless you want to get your tractor and some form of tow behind implement on the trailer too. Good luck doing that with an hydraulic dovetail trailer.
Everyone's needs are different, so the blanket statement about what's best is redundant. I have a double gang 8ft disc and a Landpride RC3712 12ft folding cutter coming that I need to get on the trailer. Not possible with hydraulic dovetail models.

I'm not going to weld anything to the trailer. I'll use 2"x3" heavy walled tubing that will work with the stake pockets to support a cantilevered deck that will extend rearward 3ft.
I'm spoiled now. The Diamond C has a cordless remote for the dovetail, so no extra steps needed.I agree everyone's needs are different. And I'm not trying to make a blanket statement. I was referring to the member I quoted and his hydraulic dove tail was a good choice. But I have driven onto the dove tail, then lifted it, then continued to drive forward. A couple extra steps in some cases I admit.
Mine has the foot or so tall rails and is only about 80" between fenders. I can get the doors open a few inches but not enough to exit. having a low slung trailer it does tow very well.Hmm. My 18' little gooseneck with a 2' dove has removable fenders that I never had to remove.
Can open the doors on Challengers, Porsches, and...well, anything I've had on it in the past six or so years. Those fenders are nine inches tall as I recall.