Too many Kubotas
Veteran Member
As I recall this one is 93 inches between the fenders, and they're definitely not sturdy enough to drive over. But removable.
Tilt trailer
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sd455dan
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Very nice, that extra 13" width and doors clearing the fender tops helps with cars. My fenders are at the rail height so a No go for a car.
4570Man
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If it was 93” between the fenders you would be well over the maximum legal width.
Too many Kubotas
Veteran Member
Probably. I can measure it tomorrow.
Too many trailers for this scatterbrain to keep track of.
Rhino35
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Hello All,
Resurrecting this thread and asking for trailer advice, specifically from people with experience with drive over fenders. I have no practical experience with trailers - but I do know the load has to be balanced right for a bumper pull. What I don't know is how this exactly is managed. I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 3/4 ton pickup with the Duramax diesel engine in good shape so no problems with a 10k or 14k capacity trailer.
I have an estimated 6,500 pound Kioti DK41 (loaded rear tires) with six foot heavy duty bushhog and Kioti FEL - it's 24.5 feet long with the bucket sitting like its about to scoop something up. I'm guessing a bit shorter if I curled the bucket down and lowered it onto a trailer deck. I have 4" spacers on the rear wheels for stability on my hillsides and so the width of the rear tires outside to outside is 83-84 inches. This extra width drives a trailer buying decision for the tractor to a deck over that can have 96, or even 103 inches of trailer deck width - OR - I'm maybe thinking - a lower to the ground still as wide powered full tilt trailer deck, but with fender wells that are "drive over" fenders. For either configuration I'd like to keep the trailer deck size to 22 feet, which will be about 26 feet total length. If I could safely operate a 20 foot trailer with a total length of 24 feet I'd be even happier - for maneuvering in and around a somewhat cramped detached shop.
Why a lower to the ground trailer deck? Because I'd really like to use this trailer to load a 4,500 pound Dodge Challenger that has just over 4 inches of ground clearance in front - where the "splitter" will hit things like parking barriers and loading ramps. I'd probably use the trailer for the car more often than I would for the tractor.
I was told by a trailer salesperson that no regular deck over double-axle trailer, even a full tilt 22 footer, could have a loading angle low enough for the car. He said I could work up some kind of extra ramps, but he also opined they'd have to be "about 20 feet long". Driving a car up narrow ramps of any kind sounds hairy, much less ones that long.
But a full tilt trailer...even one completely flat over the wheels...couldn't that when tilted to, or near, the ground have some portable ramps put in place to allow for the car to drive up? And back to my earlier question - how about a wide deck, but lower trailer deck between fenders with drive over fenders for the tractor - that the car could drive up the tilted ramp without anything else?
These drive over fender models are sold, but I'm really leery of driving a tractor over fenders. Wouldn't it be all too easy to screw that up and have the tractor fall off to the side? What a disaster that would be. The fenders would have to be low enough to open the car door over them - I don't know if that would be a problem.
And, a winch! Everyone says I should have a winch! Lol.
Thanks for any advice!
Resurrecting this thread and asking for trailer advice, specifically from people with experience with drive over fenders. I have no practical experience with trailers - but I do know the load has to be balanced right for a bumper pull. What I don't know is how this exactly is managed. I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 3/4 ton pickup with the Duramax diesel engine in good shape so no problems with a 10k or 14k capacity trailer.
I have an estimated 6,500 pound Kioti DK41 (loaded rear tires) with six foot heavy duty bushhog and Kioti FEL - it's 24.5 feet long with the bucket sitting like its about to scoop something up. I'm guessing a bit shorter if I curled the bucket down and lowered it onto a trailer deck. I have 4" spacers on the rear wheels for stability on my hillsides and so the width of the rear tires outside to outside is 83-84 inches. This extra width drives a trailer buying decision for the tractor to a deck over that can have 96, or even 103 inches of trailer deck width - OR - I'm maybe thinking - a lower to the ground still as wide powered full tilt trailer deck, but with fender wells that are "drive over" fenders. For either configuration I'd like to keep the trailer deck size to 22 feet, which will be about 26 feet total length. If I could safely operate a 20 foot trailer with a total length of 24 feet I'd be even happier - for maneuvering in and around a somewhat cramped detached shop.
Why a lower to the ground trailer deck? Because I'd really like to use this trailer to load a 4,500 pound Dodge Challenger that has just over 4 inches of ground clearance in front - where the "splitter" will hit things like parking barriers and loading ramps. I'd probably use the trailer for the car more often than I would for the tractor.
I was told by a trailer salesperson that no regular deck over double-axle trailer, even a full tilt 22 footer, could have a loading angle low enough for the car. He said I could work up some kind of extra ramps, but he also opined they'd have to be "about 20 feet long". Driving a car up narrow ramps of any kind sounds hairy, much less ones that long.
But a full tilt trailer...even one completely flat over the wheels...couldn't that when tilted to, or near, the ground have some portable ramps put in place to allow for the car to drive up? And back to my earlier question - how about a wide deck, but lower trailer deck between fenders with drive over fenders for the tractor - that the car could drive up the tilted ramp without anything else?
These drive over fender models are sold, but I'm really leery of driving a tractor over fenders. Wouldn't it be all too easy to screw that up and have the tractor fall off to the side? What a disaster that would be. The fenders would have to be low enough to open the car door over them - I don't know if that would be a problem.
And, a winch! Everyone says I should have a winch! Lol.
Thanks for any advice!
Last edited:
Too many Kubotas
Veteran Member
Your car has a 10 degree approach angle if it's like mine, so about 8 degrees on the ramps would be safe. You can use Race Ramps made for trailer use to add to the effective length and lessen the angles.
Using my small 18' gooseneck with a 2-foot dovetail, the ramps don't need to be overly long (can't recall what length I use for that car). It helps a lot if they are knife edged, by the way.
Maybe more importantly, if you go with drive-over fenders, is that they are not too tall for the doors to be opened. They need about nine inches if memory serves me
Using my small 18' gooseneck with a 2-foot dovetail, the ramps don't need to be overly long (can't recall what length I use for that car). It helps a lot if they are knife edged, by the way.
Maybe more importantly, if you go with drive-over fenders, is that they are not too tall for the doors to be opened. They need about nine inches if memory serves me
Rhino35
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Hi,
I recognize your photo from a car forum and threat on trailers. Thanks for replying. My 2019 Challenger Hellcat Red Eye has, I think, 4.1 inches of ground clearance. I think it is a bit lower than a regular Hellcat - and I have a slightly smaller front tire than the stock Pirelli's so it is probably 4 inches.
You gave me some great information and I appreciate it.
Too many Kubotas
Veteran Member
To the best of my knowledge, my pedestrian 'Cat has the same approach angle and ground clearance as a Redeye.
Either way, I'm not fond of tilt decks (but a huge fan of hydraulic dove tails) so removable fenders might be better in your case than ones you can drive on. Although driving over them with a tractor wouldn't bother me one bit.
I brought tools to remove a fender when picking up the pictured 'Cat, but didn't need them. Look up "Best aluminum ramps" (I think it is), and you can get ramps made that'll work with your car and trailer combination.
Either way, I'm not fond of tilt decks (but a huge fan of hydraulic dove tails) so removable fenders might be better in your case than ones you can drive on. Although driving over them with a tractor wouldn't bother me one bit.
I brought tools to remove a fender when picking up the pictured 'Cat, but didn't need them. Look up "Best aluminum ramps" (I think it is), and you can get ramps made that'll work with your car and trailer combination.
Rhino35
Silver Member
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More good info.
I have both steel and optional aluminum detachable ramps that go with my four post Titan lift so I probably could use those with a dovetail and its ramps to lessen the approach angle.
I saw some other posts by people not fond of tilt decks. What was it about them that you didn't like, and what made you like the dovetail with ramps more?
