Tilt trailer

[deserteagle71]

You say the width of the rear of your tractor is 83-84". Since 83" is the width between fenders of most trailers I think you will have a problem. Also a tongue weight problem unless you want to transport the tractor with the rear tires parked up on the drive-over fenders. Tractor with FEL and big rotary mower is a LONG vehicle.

 

[Rhino35]

You say the width of the rear of your tractor is 83-84". Since 83" is the width between fenders of most trailers I think you will have a problem. Also a tongue weight problem unless you want to transport the tractor with the rear tires parked up on the drive-over fenders. Tractor with FEL and big rotary mower is a LONG vehicle.

Yes, with the four inch spacers on each side of the rear wheels it is 83 inches. To drive them between the fenders I'd need at least a few inches extra just to not risk rubbing the tire sidewalls.

I'm having difficulty picturing how even drive over fenders would work - as you say to have a balanced load I might have to keep the tires on the fenders. The front tires are much closer in width so would drive between fenders fine.

A solution to having an "all in one" trailer capable of carrying the tractor, the Challenger, and riding lawn mowers is sounding pretty hard to identify. Unless a 22 foot long deck (26 foot overall length - to fit in my detached garage) deck-over trailer with full power tilt that could be fitted with fairly long "race ramps" to shallow the approach angle of the car? My truck has a nine foot bed in which I could carry ramps. A full deck over would allow the tractor to be positioned properly for load - and if the bush hog stuck out behind I could flag it.

Am I crazy?

 

[Too many Kubotas]

I resorted to load a car with a very low approach angle by backing it up on the 4-post, then driving it onto the trailer. Of course, that still leaves the unloading part of the equation, but the dealer it was going to has the really long 2-piece Race Ramps, which we used together with my aluminum ones.

I have never had a tilt deck, but have seen them in use. One think I don't care for with them is all the extra weight, as they're basically 1.5 trailers in one.

A basic dovetail with aluminum ramps is a simple setup, but my favorite by far is a hydraulic dovetail. Unfortunately, while usable with some extras, isn't ideal for something like a Challenger.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Yes, with the four inch spacers on each side of the rear wheels it is 83 inches. To drive them between the fenders I'd need at least a few inches extra just to not risk rubbing the tire sidewalls.

A solution to having an "all in one" trailer capable of carrying the tractor, the Challenger, and riding lawn mowers is sounding pretty hard to identify. Unless a 22 foot long deck (26 foot overall length - to fit in my detached garage) deck-over trailer with full power tilt that could be fitted with fairly long "race ramps" to shallow the approach angle of the car?

A Durango Hellcat, and a few other vehicles, leaves about an inch per side between the tires and fenders on my little trailer. That doesn't bother me one bit, and a tractor tire...

If you go with a deck-over the ramp situation changes quite a bit for Challenger usage. For example, I ordered my toy hauler (which is not a deck-over) four inches taller than stock to get it into places I want to go.

Well, its rear door/ramp needs to be propped up on supports, then ramps and Race Ramps are required to accommodate the approach and break-over angles. The pictured deck-over with the hydraulic tail is about as low as it gets, especially after dumping its air suspension.

You need to start taking some measurements, then decide what's best for you. I see no reason why a regular low trailer wouldn't work.

 

[D&D]

More good info.

I have both steel and optional aluminum detachable ramps that go with my four post Titan lift so I probably could use those with a dovetail and its ramps to lessen the approach angle.

I saw some other posts by people not fond of tilt decks. What was it about them that you didn't like, and what made you like the dovetail with ramps more?

Maybe a drop deck trailer would be better

9,990# GVWR Hydraulic Drop Deck Equipment Float Trailer

Skip the ramps and load equipment with ease on your Hulk 9,990# GVWR Hydraulic Drop Deck Equipment Float Trailer - The perfect trailer for moving low clearance equipment such as forklifts and scissor lifts. Add the available winch to recover disabled equipment and vehicles with ease!

hulktrailers.com

The HP series may be a better fit for car and tractor work. Flat deck to load other stuff.

Drop Deck and Tilt Trailers Available | EZ Ramp Trailers :: HP Series by No Ramp Trailers

Looking to get a new tilt or drop deck trailer? Come to see EZ Ramp Trailers to find the right transportation for your equipment or products.

www.noramp.com

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Maybe a drop deck trailer would be better

I thought about those last night, after posting.

The downside is that the Challenger's doors would be blocked with the bed in the down position...which wouldn't matter if the trailer has a wireless remote.

 

[Rhino35]

Thanks for all the ideas - stirred my curiosity and prompted me to look around some more.

This MAXX-D deck over tilt trailer is made by a small company in Texas. The one that would fit inside my garage with tongue length would be the 22' model - its entire deck tilts for a 15 loading angle. It comes in a "gravity" or "power tilt" version - listed as the same price.

TOX Powered Tilt Deck Trailer | 14K Tilt Trailer | MAXX-D Trailers

maxxdtrailers.com

If I got the power tilt (with remote control) and had the long race ramps in the photo Too Many Kubotas posted (which I think come apart for shorter lengths to transport), couldn't I position the race ramps, and then lower the deck until the knife-edged steel deck ramp would stop and lay on the recessed edge of the race ramps? By stopping short of the advertised 15 degrees to marry up with the race ramps wouldn't this create a fairly straight low travel angle for loading and unloading the Challenger?

Rhino

 

[Too many Kubotas]

You wouldn't need the 2-piece really long Race Ramps in the photo. The regular 8-degree ones would likely work just fine with that trailer.

But, and this could be important, Race Ramps should be used on smooth concrete or pavement, or they'll eventually crumble.

That's one reason I prefer blocking up the door or trailer end with plastic blocks (intended to be supports for RV trailer jacks as I recall) or chunks of wood.

Now that the door/trailer end is supported at the desired height, I can use normal aluminum ramps. Well, the knife edged ones can need a little support (a piece of 2x4 or something) so they don't flip up when the tires hit them.

Anyway, that's a less expensive option that can be used on uneven and rough ground.

 

[Rhino35]

You wouldn't need the 2-piece really long Race Ramps in the photo. The regular 8-degree ones would likely work just fine with that trailer.

But, and this could be important, Race Ramps should be used on smooth concrete or pavement, or they'll eventually crumble.

That's one reason I prefer blocking up the door or trailer end with plastic blocks (intended to be supports for RV trailer jacks as I recall) or chunks of wood.

Now that the door/trailer end is supported at the desired height, I can use normal aluminum ramps. Well, the knife edged ones can need a little support (a piece of 2x4 or something) so they don't flip up when the tires hit them.

Anyway, that's a less expensive option that can be used on uneven and rough ground.

Glad to hear regular 8 degree Race Ramps would likely work with that full power tilt trailer.

And good info about loading and unloading on level hard ground. I'm understanding that the lip of your dovetail ramps, or the lip of a hypothetical full tilt deck, when it is set down and rests on the Race Ramp ledge can't rest on a corner of it or it will weaken and eventually crumble it. So trailer and ramps have to be flat - or very closely married up.

And, if I'm understanding you right, instead of worrying about achieving that geometry between trailer deck/trailer ramps and the Race Ramp, which supports the deck or deck ramps entirely on the Race Ramp ledge you use plastic blocks (or could use wood) under the trailer's ramps that take the load off the Race Ramp? And when you do this you actually don't need Race Ramps? You can use your four post lift's aluminum ramps?

Your Porsche is as low, or lower, than my Challenger, so what you've worked out sound good. What you (I'm) describing in this paragraph above about plastic supports is not what we're seeing in your post #53, right?

Have you got a picture of what you're describing in post #58?

I really appreciate you sharing your insights!

 

[Too many Kubotas]

It's not only that Race Ramps must be loaded evenly, they need to be on a nice surface, like concrete, not gravel.

That hydraulic dove will lift and support 10,000 lbs. but that doesn't mean I'll trust it to stay in a given position, other than fully up or all the way down. So some sort of "cribbing" to keep it at the desired height is better.

With the toy hauler it's a must as the door/ramp goes to the ground...or whatever stops it first, like those RV jack blocks. Then the door and the ramps can rest on the blocks.

f you end up buying the Texas tilt deck, I would treat it like I do my hydraulic dove and toy hauler and set the deck on something, then put aluminum ramps either on the deck or the "something" supporting the end of the trailer deck.

The aluminum ramps in post #53 are my short aluminum ramps, but since I had looked up the height of the dealer's 2-piece Race Ramps before leaving I already knew it would work.

And that was my girlfriend's car by the way, headed for a dealer to get traded in. That GT4 had a ridiculously low approach angle (about half of a Hellcat's) which is why I took the easy way out and used the lift to load it instead of cobbling something up with ramps.

Either way, the ramps need something to grab onto in the trailer end, and if knife edged, needs to be made or supported to work with low angles. When you decide on a trailer it's probably time to PM me your phone number so we can go over the finer points. Or do it now, if you want.