Tilt trailer

[Too many Kubotas]

Mine has the foot or so tall rails and is only about 80" between fenders. I can get the doors open a few inches but not enough to exit. having a low slung trailer it does tow very well.
Flat bed trailers have advantages too.

How wide is the space between those 9" tall fenders?

Are they drive over style?

As I recall this one is 93 inches between the fenders, and they're definitely not sturdy enough to drive over. But removable.

 

[sd455dan]

As I recall this one is 93 inches between the fenders, and they're definitely not sturdy enough to drive over. But removable.View attachment 857222

Very nice, that extra 13" width and doors clearing the fender tops helps with cars. My fenders are at the rail height so a No go for a car.

 

[4570Man]

As I recall this one is 93 inches between the fenders, and they're definitely not sturdy enough to drive over. But removable.View attachment 857222

If it was 93” between the fenders you would be well over the maximum legal width.

 

[Peter 315]

More like 83" ...

 

[Too many Kubotas]

More like 83" ...

Probably. I can measure it tomorrow.

Too many trailers for this scatterbrain to keep track of.

 

[Rhino35]

Hello All,

Resurrecting this thread and asking for trailer advice, specifically from people with experience with drive over fenders. I have no practical experience with trailers - but I do know the load has to be balanced right for a bumper pull. What I don't know is how this exactly is managed. I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 3/4 ton pickup with the Duramax diesel engine in good shape so no problems with a 10k or 14k capacity trailer.

I have an estimated 6,500 pound Kioti DK41 (loaded rear tires) with six foot heavy duty bushhog and Kioti FEL - it's 24.5 feet long with the bucket sitting like its about to scoop something up. I'm guessing a bit shorter if I curled the bucket down and lowered it onto a trailer deck. I have 4" spacers on the rear wheels for stability on my hillsides and so the width of the rear tires outside to outside is 83-84 inches. This extra width drives a trailer buying decision for the tractor to a deck over that can have 96, or even 103 inches of trailer deck width - OR - I'm maybe thinking - a lower to the ground still as wide powered full tilt trailer deck, but with fender wells that are "drive over" fenders. For either configuration I'd like to keep the trailer deck size to 22 feet, which will be about 26 feet total length. If I could safely operate a 20 foot trailer with a total length of 24 feet I'd be even happier - for maneuvering in and around a somewhat cramped detached shop.

Why a lower to the ground trailer deck? Because I'd really like to use this trailer to load a 4,500 pound Dodge Challenger that has just over 4 inches of ground clearance in front - where the "splitter" will hit things like parking barriers and loading ramps. I'd probably use the trailer for the car more often than I would for the tractor.

I was told by a trailer salesperson that no regular deck over double-axle trailer, even a full tilt 22 footer, could have a loading angle low enough for the car. He said I could work up some kind of extra ramps, but he also opined they'd have to be "about 20 feet long". Driving a car up narrow ramps of any kind sounds hairy, much less ones that long.

But a full tilt trailer...even one completely flat over the wheels...couldn't that when tilted to, or near, the ground have some portable ramps put in place to allow for the car to drive up? And back to my earlier question - how about a wide deck, but lower trailer deck between fenders with drive over fenders for the tractor - that the car could drive up the tilted ramp without anything else?

These drive over fender models are sold, but I'm really leery of driving a tractor over fenders. Wouldn't it be all too easy to screw that up and have the tractor fall off to the side? What a disaster that would be. The fenders would have to be low enough to open the car door over them - I don't know if that would be a problem.

And, a winch! Everyone says I should have a winch! Lol.

Thanks for any advice!

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Your car has a 10 degree approach angle if it's like mine, so about 8 degrees on the ramps would be safe. You can use Race Ramps made for trailer use to add to the effective length and lessen the angles.

Using my small 18' gooseneck with a 2-foot dovetail, the ramps don't need to be overly long (can't recall what length I use for that car). It helps a lot if they are knife edged, by the way.

Maybe more importantly, if you go with drive-over fenders, is that they are not too tall for the doors to be opened. They need about nine inches if memory serves me

 

[Rhino35]

Your car has a 10 degree approach angle if it's like mine, so about 8 degrees on the ramps would be safe. You can use Race Ramps made for trailer use to add to the effective length and lessen the angles.View attachment 880564

Using my small 18' gooseneck with a 2-foot dovetail, the ramps don't need to be overly long (can't recall what length I use for that car). It helps a lot if they are knife edged, by the way.

Maybe more importantly, if you go with drive-over fenders, is that they are not too tall for the doors to be opened. They need about nine inches if memory serves me

Hi,

I recognize your photo from a car forum and threat on trailers. Thanks for replying. My 2019 Challenger Hellcat Red Eye has, I think, 4.1 inches of ground clearance. I think it is a bit lower than a regular Hellcat - and I have a slightly smaller front tire than the stock Pirelli's so it is probably 4 inches.

You gave me some great information and I appreciate it.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

To the best of my knowledge, my pedestrian 'Cat has the same approach angle and ground clearance as a Redeye.

Either way, I'm not fond of tilt decks (but a huge fan of hydraulic dove tails) so removable fenders might be better in your case than ones you can drive on. Although driving over them with a tractor wouldn't bother me one bit.

I brought tools to remove a fender when picking up the pictured 'Cat, but didn't need them. Look up "Best aluminum ramps" (I think it is), and you can get ramps made that'll work with your car and trailer combination.

 

[Rhino35]

To the best of my knowledge, my pedestrian 'Cat has the same approach angle and ground clearance as a Redeye.

Either way, I'm not fond of tilt decks (but a huge fan of hydraulic dove tails) so removable fenders might be better in your case than ones you can drive on. Although driving over them with a tractor wouldn't bother me one bit.

I brought tools to remove a fender when picking up the pictured 'Cat, but didn't need them. Look up "Best aluminum ramps" (I think it is), and you can get ramps made that'll work with your car and trailer combination.

More good info.

I have both steel and optional aluminum detachable ramps that go with my four post Titan lift so I probably could use those with a dovetail and its ramps to lessen the approach angle.

I saw some other posts by people not fond of tilt decks. What was it about them that you didn't like, and what made you like the dovetail with ramps more?

 

[deserteagle71]

You say the width of the rear of your tractor is 83-84". Since 83" is the width between fenders of most trailers I think you will have a problem. Also a tongue weight problem unless you want to transport the tractor with the rear tires parked up on the drive-over fenders. Tractor with FEL and big rotary mower is a LONG vehicle.

 

[Rhino35]

You say the width of the rear of your tractor is 83-84". Since 83" is the width between fenders of most trailers I think you will have a problem. Also a tongue weight problem unless you want to transport the tractor with the rear tires parked up on the drive-over fenders. Tractor with FEL and big rotary mower is a LONG vehicle.

Yes, with the four inch spacers on each side of the rear wheels it is 83 inches. To drive them between the fenders I'd need at least a few inches extra just to not risk rubbing the tire sidewalls.

I'm having difficulty picturing how even drive over fenders would work - as you say to have a balanced load I might have to keep the tires on the fenders. The front tires are much closer in width so would drive between fenders fine.

A solution to having an "all in one" trailer capable of carrying the tractor, the Challenger, and riding lawn mowers is sounding pretty hard to identify. Unless a 22 foot long deck (26 foot overall length - to fit in my detached garage) deck-over trailer with full power tilt that could be fitted with fairly long "race ramps" to shallow the approach angle of the car? My truck has a nine foot bed in which I could carry ramps. A full deck over would allow the tractor to be positioned properly for load - and if the bush hog stuck out behind I could flag it.

Am I crazy?

 

[Too many Kubotas]

I resorted to load a car with a very low approach angle by backing it up on the 4-post, then driving it onto the trailer. Of course, that still leaves the unloading part of the equation, but the dealer it was going to has the really long 2-piece Race Ramps, which we used together with my aluminum ones.

I have never had a tilt deck, but have seen them in use. One think I don't care for with them is all the extra weight, as they're basically 1.5 trailers in one.

A basic dovetail with aluminum ramps is a simple setup, but my favorite by far is a hydraulic dovetail. Unfortunately, while usable with some extras, isn't ideal for something like a Challenger.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Yes, with the four inch spacers on each side of the rear wheels it is 83 inches. To drive them between the fenders I'd need at least a few inches extra just to not risk rubbing the tire sidewalls.

A solution to having an "all in one" trailer capable of carrying the tractor, the Challenger, and riding lawn mowers is sounding pretty hard to identify. Unless a 22 foot long deck (26 foot overall length - to fit in my detached garage) deck-over trailer with full power tilt that could be fitted with fairly long "race ramps" to shallow the approach angle of the car?

A Durango Hellcat, and a few other vehicles, leaves about an inch per side between the tires and fenders on my little trailer. That doesn't bother me one bit, and a tractor tire...

If you go with a deck-over the ramp situation changes quite a bit for Challenger usage. For example, I ordered my toy hauler (which is not a deck-over) four inches taller than stock to get it into places I want to go.

Well, its rear door/ramp needs to be propped up on supports, then ramps and Race Ramps are required to accommodate the approach and break-over angles. The pictured deck-over with the hydraulic tail is about as low as it gets, especially after dumping its air suspension.

You need to start taking some measurements, then decide what's best for you. I see no reason why a regular low trailer wouldn't work.

 

[D&D]

More good info.

I have both steel and optional aluminum detachable ramps that go with my four post Titan lift so I probably could use those with a dovetail and its ramps to lessen the approach angle.

I saw some other posts by people not fond of tilt decks. What was it about them that you didn't like, and what made you like the dovetail with ramps more?

Maybe a drop deck trailer would be better

9,990# GVWR Hydraulic Drop Deck Equipment Float Trailer

Skip the ramps and load equipment with ease on your Hulk 9,990# GVWR Hydraulic Drop Deck Equipment Float Trailer - The perfect trailer for moving low clearance equipment such as forklifts and scissor lifts. Add the available winch to recover disabled equipment and vehicles with ease!

hulktrailers.com

The HP series may be a better fit for car and tractor work. Flat deck to load other stuff.

Drop Deck and Tilt Trailers Available | EZ Ramp Trailers :: HP Series by No Ramp Trailers

Looking to get a new tilt or drop deck trailer? Come to see EZ Ramp Trailers to find the right transportation for your equipment or products.

www.noramp.com

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Maybe a drop deck trailer would be better

I thought about those last night, after posting.

The downside is that the Challenger's doors would be blocked with the bed in the down position...which wouldn't matter if the trailer has a wireless remote.

 

[Rhino35]

Thanks for all the ideas - stirred my curiosity and prompted me to look around some more.

This MAXX-D deck over tilt trailer is made by a small company in Texas. The one that would fit inside my garage with tongue length would be the 22' model - its entire deck tilts for a 15 loading angle. It comes in a "gravity" or "power tilt" version - listed as the same price.

TOX Powered Tilt Deck Trailer | 14K Tilt Trailer | MAXX-D Trailers

maxxdtrailers.com

If I got the power tilt (with remote control) and had the long race ramps in the photo Too Many Kubotas posted (which I think come apart for shorter lengths to transport), couldn't I position the race ramps, and then lower the deck until the knife-edged steel deck ramp would stop and lay on the recessed edge of the race ramps? By stopping short of the advertised 15 degrees to marry up with the race ramps wouldn't this create a fairly straight low travel angle for loading and unloading the Challenger?

Rhino

 

[Too many Kubotas]

You wouldn't need the 2-piece really long Race Ramps in the photo. The regular 8-degree ones would likely work just fine with that trailer.

But, and this could be important, Race Ramps should be used on smooth concrete or pavement, or they'll eventually crumble.

That's one reason I prefer blocking up the door or trailer end with plastic blocks (intended to be supports for RV trailer jacks as I recall) or chunks of wood.

Now that the door/trailer end is supported at the desired height, I can use normal aluminum ramps. Well, the knife edged ones can need a little support (a piece of 2x4 or something) so they don't flip up when the tires hit them.

Anyway, that's a less expensive option that can be used on uneven and rough ground.

 

[Rhino35]

You wouldn't need the 2-piece really long Race Ramps in the photo. The regular 8-degree ones would likely work just fine with that trailer.

But, and this could be important, Race Ramps should be used on smooth concrete or pavement, or they'll eventually crumble.

That's one reason I prefer blocking up the door or trailer end with plastic blocks (intended to be supports for RV trailer jacks as I recall) or chunks of wood.

Now that the door/trailer end is supported at the desired height, I can use normal aluminum ramps. Well, the knife edged ones can need a little support (a piece of 2x4 or something) so they don't flip up when the tires hit them.

Anyway, that's a less expensive option that can be used on uneven and rough ground.

Glad to hear regular 8 degree Race Ramps would likely work with that full power tilt trailer.

And good info about loading and unloading on level hard ground. I'm understanding that the lip of your dovetail ramps, or the lip of a hypothetical full tilt deck, when it is set down and rests on the Race Ramp ledge can't rest on a corner of it or it will weaken and eventually crumble it. So trailer and ramps have to be flat - or very closely married up.

And, if I'm understanding you right, instead of worrying about achieving that geometry between trailer deck/trailer ramps and the Race Ramp, which supports the deck or deck ramps entirely on the Race Ramp ledge you use plastic blocks (or could use wood) under the trailer's ramps that take the load off the Race Ramp? And when you do this you actually don't need Race Ramps? You can use your four post lift's aluminum ramps?

Your Porsche is as low, or lower, than my Challenger, so what you've worked out sound good. What you (I'm) describing in this paragraph above about plastic supports is not what we're seeing in your post #53, right?

Have you got a picture of what you're describing in post #58?

I really appreciate you sharing your insights!

 

[Too many Kubotas]

It's not only that Race Ramps must be loaded evenly, they need to be on a nice surface, like concrete, not gravel.

That hydraulic dove will lift and support 10,000 lbs. but that doesn't mean I'll trust it to stay in a given position, other than fully up or all the way down. So some sort of "cribbing" to keep it at the desired height is better.

With the toy hauler it's a must as the door/ramp goes to the ground...or whatever stops it first, like those RV jack blocks. Then the door and the ramps can rest on the blocks.

f you end up buying the Texas tilt deck, I would treat it like I do my hydraulic dove and toy hauler and set the deck on something, then put aluminum ramps either on the deck or the "something" supporting the end of the trailer deck.

The aluminum ramps in post #53 are my short aluminum ramps, but since I had looked up the height of the dealer's 2-piece Race Ramps before leaving I already knew it would work.

And that was my girlfriend's car by the way, headed for a dealer to get traded in. That GT4 had a ridiculously low approach angle (about half of a Hellcat's) which is why I took the easy way out and used the lift to load it instead of cobbling something up with ramps.

Either way, the ramps need something to grab onto in the trailer end, and if knife edged, needs to be made or supported to work with low angles. When you decide on a trailer it's probably time to PM me your phone number so we can go over the finer points. Or do it now, if you want.