Tilt Trailers - Questions

   / Tilt Trailers - Questions #11  
#1. That's what I did, then added 2' for GP.

#2. Wood. (Metal=slippery)

#3. No.

#4. For a well built trailer, it sure is.

#5. Yes.

#6. Looks are important. Mine's Black w/ JD Green pinstriping. ;)

#7. Personally, I prefer tilt.
 
   / Tilt Trailers - Questions
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Will,

What make/model trailer do you have? Do you have any pictures?

Did you really put Green pinstripes on your trailer or did it just come that way?
 
   / Tilt Trailers - Questions #13  
It's a 7' X 18', #7000 built by Top Notch Trailers.
Paid about $2800 for it 3-4 months ago.
They put the pinstriping on, just asked what color I wanted.

Bought a WarnWorks 3700 for it yesterday, just need to figure out a mount system.

Picture's ?, you bet.

 
   / Tilt Trailers - Questions #14  
Willl said:
Bought a WarnWorks 3700 for it yesterday, just need to figure out a mount system.

If mine was at my house I'd take a pic of the winch mount, but it is at my cousin's getting repainted.

Basically it is 1 1/2" square tubing welded to the front of the trailer, has a bend up, then runs flat then arches back down to the trailer a-frame tongue. It has a 1/4" steel plate approx. 15"x 15" then the winch bolts to it.

I seriously recommend a heavier winch, this one was a 2500 lbs. winch and it is worthless. I'd go with at least a 5k winch. Since I've never use it (the trailer is mine and my uncles and he put the winch on) I won't hange it but teh 2500 lbs. winch has had it.

I'd find a way to mount it to the front of the trailer deck, not on the flat deck but on that lip that runs across. Or fab a bracket and weld a 2" reciever tube into place then attach the winch to a receiver to slide in for when you need it, then yor winch isn't in the weather. What are you planning on winching onto the trailer?
 
   / Tilt Trailers - Questions #15  
Neophyte said:
Question #5:
I believe the trailer is rated at 7000 lbs GVW. Will this be enough for my JD 3320 with 300CX (73" Bucket) and implement? My tires are not loaded so I would guess the total weight for my setup should not exceed 5000 lbs.

Remember to account for tongue weight transfer

2000 trailer
5000 tractor
------------
7000 gross
-700 to 1000 transfer to tow vehicle
-------------
6000 to 6300 net on trailer

Check the load rating on the tires as it's easy to cut costs here
 
   / Tilt Trailers - Questions #16  
Birdhunter1 said:
I seriously recommend a heavier winch

Haven't tried it yet, but according to this, should be fine.
If not, I can always snatch block it.

rolling.JPG
 
   / Tilt Trailers - Questions #17  
"Personally, I don't see the advantage of a tilt deck for a tractor. For things that have low ground clearance like mowers, rollers, and sports cars they make sense, but your tractor will have no problem climbing the ramps on the back. A flat deck trailer usually tends to be lighter than a comparable tilt deck, so your giving up more of your weight to the trailer, remember the rating includes the weight of the trailer itself. If you plan to use it for other things though, a tilt deck may be a good choice."

MMMs can highcenter and backhoes can drag going up ramps, and ramps, hinges and assist springs can weigh as much as tilt components.

"...Wood. But be sure the trailer maker doesn't weld the boards into place with a captive piece of steel. I saw this when I was looking, it was done so they didn't need to put in screws but made board replacement a metal working operation."

This sounds like a great solution to grinding rusted and stripped torx drive self tappers at wood replacement time, put one end of board in pocket, bend board over bottle jack, insert other end in and lower jack viola!
Between wood and steel I would go with wood because lowering steel implements and loaders down on a steel deck just doesnt make sense.

"In terms of ramp trailers, I'm currently leaning torwards low deck height type with full flatbed as opposed to deck-over with beaver tail. I guess these are commonly called skidsteer/tractor trailers."

Deckovers are sometimes called "backhoe pros" and 80% of the ones around me are tandem axle duals. Triple axle duals, tandem and triple singles make up the rest. these are REALLY nice for forking loaded pallets on and off.
The dropaxle 10k 14 and 16 footers are preferred for bobcats and such. a popular brand for these are CRONKITE or CRONKHITE dont recall which.

"I'm still not sure if it's worth the extra $2000 for the tilt trailer. At this point, I think I would only go with a tilt trailer if I could find a good deal at an auction or on a used one."

I'll move alot of ramps for $2000

"Yes. Check for paint underneath as lots of makers don't paint it all."

I was looking at a Load-trail brand trailer and mentioned to the dealer that they only primed underneath between the I beams, his reply was "well the insides of your walls at home arent painted are they?" I was at a loss for words after that.

"The trailer needs to be hooked to the truck to tilt up. The front trailer jack will not keep the hitch high enough to allow the rear of the trailer to touch the ground. Thus can't load or unload without trailer on pickup. (Foldable ramps usually have a drop leg and will let you load and unload without attaching to pickup)."

I have never thought of that, if the travel of the cylinder/ram whatever was an extra foot, would it be possible? It seems that if the trailer tongue jack can extend enough to allow the trailer coupler to rise above the truck hitch
there wouldnt be a problem. Hmm...If the unhitched trailer is tilted the coupler/ring whatever would pivot at the tongue jack/ground contact point until either the back end of trailer hit ground or the cylinder runs out of stroke, if the latter happens just raise the tongue jack more. It sounds like this issue isnt a design flaw inherent to tilt deck trailers just the one you are baseing this off of.
 
   / Tilt Trailers - Questions #18  
rdln (steve)

Saw your reply to my post about the tilt trailer needing to be hooked to the truck to tilt up high enough. Your point may be correct about my type of trailer. My trailer has a 12,000 drop leg jack, centered in the middle of the tongue about 2.5 ft. back from the hitch. I'm not sure if I could jack it high enough to keep the hitch up where it needs to be. I will have to try it some time. If the jack was near the hitch then it probably wouldn't be an issue. The drop leg jack needs a fair amount of clearance for the handle to swing. My trailer is a 14,000 trailer and comes with a HD jack. A smaller trailer with a different type of jack mounted to the front might be ok. A tilt trailer does transfer more weight to the jack when tilted because more trailer and load weight is placed on the jack since the front trailer wheels are elevated. The jack and tongue is also tipped when tilting the trailer and the jacks are not really designed for that kind of stress, especially for a lighter jack.
The stroke of the cylinder is deliberately limited. Typically just enough length is given to get the rear of the trailer to just touch the ground. Manufactures don't want excessive tongue weight on the truck if the trailer axles and tires are completely raised off the ground.
 
   / Tilt Trailers - Questions #19  
we used to have an eager beaver ramp trailer and decided to try a cam superline tilt. Well we now own a second cam tilt and no looking back. hands down tilt is the best and we move multiple attachments, excavators, JD 4310, etc. One is 12000 gvw and the other is a 14000 split deck. They are both deck between the wheels. They CAN be loaded and unloaded without being hooked to a truck and once you don't mess with ramps anymore you'll never go back.
 
   / Tilt Trailers - Questions
  • Thread Starter
#20  
johnno said:
we used to have an eager beaver ramp trailer and decided to try a cam superline tilt. Well we now own a second cam tilt and no looking back. hands down tilt is the best and we move multiple attachments, excavators, JD 4310, etc. One is 12000 gvw and the other is a 14000 split deck. They are both deck between the wheels. They CAN be loaded and unloaded without being hooked to a truck and once you don't mess with ramps anymore you'll never go back.
Would you recommend one over the other? That is, full deck or split deck? What are the pros and cons of each type? Which one do you like better?
 

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