tiltmeters

[Anonymous Poster]

What is the construction of the tilt meters? From the web site it apears to be a curved glass tube with a ball bearing in it and filled with something like mineral oil. The tube looks to be mounted in or on a plastic backing plate that has the angle numbers printed on it. Is this the actual construction or am I missing something that would justify the $40 price? (Justification from a cost to manufacture standpoint not from a save a life standpoint.)

Thanks,
Andy

 

[Mike H]

Wen: I think you'll start to see these standards electronically within the next year or two. I'm a member of an ASTM committee that is responsible for a particular ASTM and ANSI standard We have just started reviewing drafts, submitting comments, voting, etc. electronically. There is virtually no cost to put these in .pdf format. Nowadays most of the work is in an electronic format anyway so it's simply a translation. Scanners are also dirt cheap. On the other hand, all the money that is being paid for standards currently (mostly by corporations) is going to come out of somebody's pocket and I can't imagine they'll like this. I think it's the publishing arm of the standards organizations but I'm not sure. I can confirm that the people that generate the contents of the standards are not compensated for it! I generally end up buying half a dozen specific ANSI standards a year for various reasons and I'd say on average they're $100 a pop.

 

[Bird]

Andy, I think you've described the tiltmeter's construction pretty well. Of course the word "plastic" covers a wide range of material and I think (hope?) this one is pretty tough stuff.

Bird

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Hi guys. Rick here again. Will try to justify $40 price - hope I can. The body is made of ABS (Acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene), not plastic. ABS is much stronger, UV resistant (resists fading), and expensive. Glass tube is boro-silicate & polished internally to between 110 to 150%. Some residentail windows are polished to 50% if that gives you a better idea - not a cheap process. Each tube must be heated, cut and bent to an EXACT radius for accuracy and to fit the ABS body. System that customizes number painting to any pattern upon request costs $6000. Molds for each body style cost between $4000 & $10,000 depending upon size. (We have 21 molds.) Liability insurace is $5000 per year. Labeling machines cost $2000 a year in supplies alone (we have 2). Then advertising is about $10,000 per year, and general overhead costs (lighting, phone bills, etc.) is about $5000 a year. Not to mention office supplies, wages & benefits, etc.

Wow - this is really depressing.

For anyone who is interested, I can tell you where to get a similar model that has a plastic tube (sags at high temps.), does not include mounting brackets, and does not have internal stand-offs for bolts. Numbers are NOT customized, and is used for campers. It costs around $12.00.

I can speak from experience - I have rolled 2 tractors and a Bobcat. (Makes me sound real bright, huh?) Damage to my first tractor was almost $2000 alone (new hood, roll-bar, radiator, two new wheels & front axel). I decided it was time for some type of indicator... and R&B was born!

Hope this helps clear up the cost issue.
Thanks for sitting through my babbling!
Rick

 

[Anonymous Poster]

**NOTE for those curious about Model #7490 beeper model - Early feed back on this new model shows the switches need more dampening. Will be working on this problem this week.

ALSO - I have a list of after-market roll bars for anyone owning older tractors that came WITHOUT R.O.P.S. Free info to anyone who needs or wants it. You can contact me through the web site at Tiltmeter.com.

Good day to all!

 

[MChalkley]

Rick - Thanks for the elaboration. I started to try to recount from memory from the 1-hour conversation we had the other night, but 1) didn't think I could remember the details accurately and 2) I didn't have time.

BTW, for the benefit of everyone else, your call was the first time in longer than I can remember that I received a phone call from someone I'd ordered something from to ask if it had arrived yet. I enjoyed the conversation and learned quite a bit in the bargain. Thanks!

I can also certainly vouch for the quality of the R&B product, in addition to the service.

Mark

 

[PBMAX]

Rick,I haven't bought a tractor yet but I think I can do the math.../w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif...Lets see $40-$75 For the 20 deg model,depending on the model or $2000...In repairs for the tractor not to mention new underpants and visit to the doc to remove said under pants from personal telpipe.../w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gifyep I think I got it...And will get one for both directions I have I nice steap slope on my new acreage....I too have seen those lower priced meters for rv's thats what prompted me to nose around this board the other day and I'm gald I did..BTW in the Navy we used them to show the listing of the ship in heavy waters...But we called them "SICK O' METERS" meaning if you were silly enough to stair at one for a little while you start realy noticing the motion and one thing leads to a nother.Then before ya know it your turnning green around the gills/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif...

Lil' Paul

Laziness is the Father of invention.../w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

 

[Ches]

Bird, MCChalkley, Others,
Thanks for the discussion
regarding the tiltmeters.
As a result, I ordered and
received the 7489C to
install on my B2910. I
have less than ten hours
on the tractor, and winced
when I saw I needed to
drill 1/4 inch holes in
the sheet metal if I
wanted to use the
brackets. I'm wondering
if I could mount the meter
on the bar that is at the
rear of the endloader that
crosses over the tractor
right in front of the
instrument panel using
hose clamps. If that is
not a good idea, how
dependable is double stick
tape? I will drill the
two holes if there is no
acceptable alternative.
If mounting by the
brackets, where would you
recommend it be placed? On
the 2910 there is a square
piece of sheet metal that
is slightly raised
above the hood (it doesn't
appear to have a
function). It looks like
that would be a good place
as it is at the center and
the rear of the hood. As
you can tell from my
posts, this newbe has many
questions, and is most
appreciative that you guys
are there to answer even
the most fundamental of
questions. Thanks in
advance.

Ches

 

[JerryG]

Ches,
If you want some good two sided tape go to the auto dept. in your local Wal-Mart and get you some trim tape. They have rolls and also squares about 2" x 3". Its the same tape that's used to hold on the rubber side strips on cars and trucks.
JerryG

 

[Keoke]

Ches, use the tape first until you are sure where you want to mount the meter. The tape will hold the meter anywhere. Do you have a canopy over your rollbar? If you do, a neat trick is to build a tray box under the canopy for gloves, glasses, cell phone, etc. and then glue or screw the meter to the front of the tray box. This worked out neat on my JD.
I got two meters one for fore and aft and one for side to side measurement. When I get to a slope that I am not sure about I nose down enough to read the angle (fore & aft meter) and then decide whether I want to go side ways or not. The general feel (lots of variables) on this site is to stay under 15 degrees when going sideways on a slope. Hope the above helps.
Good luck with your new tractor.

best regards,
george