tire chains

/ tire chains #42  
Nice review
 
/ tire chains #44  
@TractorNH - Where did you get the V-bar chains for the front (bottom photo in post #13)? You went with 4 link; any issues with slippage? Did you find the tensioners made a difference?

I'm running aquiline spikes in the rear of my JD 4044R with R1 tires, but in icy conditions the front end just slides. And like the OP I'm worried about losing chains between the lugs unless I can find a pattern that ensures continuous contact with the ground.

Pete
 
/ tire chains #45  
/ tire chains #46  
I just purchased my first tractor, a New Holland Workmaster 50, to use for a variety of tasks on some vacation property we own. One of the principal tasks is going to be keeping our mile of access road cleared in the winter so we can enjoy our new cabin. I was looking at the Aquiline Talon chains for the rear tires (18.4 x 24 R4) but after reading this thread would like to price a pair of comparable TRYGG chains before purchasing. However, I'm having a hard time finding a TRYGG dealer in the West and also running into some confusion when trying to find the proper chain size.

Any suggestions for a TRYGG dealer in the mountain west area so I could keep my shipping charges down?
 
/ tire chains #47  
On my first tractor - Ford 1700 - I finally had to buy chains. I bought heavy duty V-bar tractor chains from Les Schwab. The rear chains were a real PITA to install - so very heavy. Front ones - no problem. I could climb right up the side of one of my outbuildings with the chains on. The ride - that's one of the reasons I upgraded to the Kubota M6040 in 2009. I don't need chains with the Kubota - it's plenty heavy enough.

I never had problems with the HD chains and my R-1 tires. At least, not so I noticed traction wise or ride wise. Rode like a cob - would climb tall mountains.

As I remember - full set of chains - front & rear - right around $500.
 
/ tire chains #48  
You need to chat with the folks at Quality Chain Corporation.

Sparks, Nevada 1-775-359-7744

Rocklin, California 1-800-843-8824

Hillsboro, Oregon 1-800-843-8824 company headquarters

This is just a reminder to you, but you need to get the rear tires loaded with liquid ballast;
preferably "undiluted"windshield washer fluid as it is the least expensive liquid ballast per gallon.

I hope you purchased a snow blower for the coming winter.
 
/ tire chains #49  
I got a price quote on TRYGG studded chains today from a local shop: $1850 for the 9.5mm studs and $2150 for the 11mm studs. That's a little rich for my blood. I ordered a pair of Aquiline Talons with 9.5mm studs for about $1050 delivered. And even that seems crazy expensive but I guess I'll see how things work out this winter.
 
/ tire chains #50  
I got a price quote on TRYGG studded chains today from a local shop: $1850 for the 9.5mm studs and $2150 for the 11mm studs. That's a little rich for my blood. I ordered a pair of Aquiline Talons with 9.5mm studs for about $1050 delivered. And even that seems crazy expensive but I guess I'll see how things work out this winter.

The first time they get you down an icy slope safely, you will be happy you got them. Even happier when you get back up:D
 
/ tire chains #51  
The other chain manufacturer with a similar style to the Aquiline and the Trygg is OFA. I have OFA EKO 8 chains on my tractor. Larger tractors would use OFA EKO 9 chains.

I've posted in several threads on here comparing v-bar ladder style, v-bar Duo Grip, and my OFA EKO 8 (a studded "Euro style" chain) chains. All of these chains were on the same tractor, with the same R4 tires. The short summary: there is absolutely no comparison. If you need the best traction, go with the studded Euro style chains. Depending on your application (various combinations of hills, Ice, snow, on road and/or in the woods) you might get by with the other styles, but for my use, the Euro style was necessary. I use studded, since almost none of my use is on pavement - i'm on gravel roads/driveway, and in the woods. If I were worried about scratching up pavement, I'd use the non-studded version.
 
/ tire chains #52  
Also using Ofa Eko 8 on our L3200. Excellent.

2019031913591116-IMG_4116-XL.jpg
 
/ tire chains #53  
Are chains worth it on asphalt? I have an 11% Grade on my driveway and I"m just thinking I don't need to tear up my driveway with chains if they're going to slip and rip it up anyway when I go to move snow.
 
/ tire chains #54  
Chains on asphalt will not hurt it unless you spin, if you spin your tires with chains on asphalt the heavier your tractor the more likely to damage it.
That said using the good Euro style chains will provide such an increase in traction on wet heavy snows that you may not spin, on dry fluffy snow they may not be needed.
 
/ tire chains #55  
Cougsfan - now that you have competed work on the chains - it's almost a guarantee - light snow levels this winter. JMHO - when you went to Les Schwab, initially, you should have purchased HD tractor chains - not HD truck chains. There IS a significant difference.
 
/ tire chains #56  
Are chains worth it on asphalt? I have an 11% Grade on my driveway and I"m just thinking I don't need to tear up my driveway with chains if they're going to slip and rip it up anyway when I go to move snow.

==========================================================================================================

Hello and good morning SwampOwl,


You need chains; as you will have little to no adhesion unless you have loaded tires and chains.

The V bar and trygg snow and ice chains without studs will work well for you as long as they are installed correctly.

You need to let air out of both tires to assure you can tighten the chains to the last side chain link.

If you do not tighten both side chains to the last link they will spin on the tire and eventually become worthless for traction.

After you have the chains tightened up you put air back in the tires making sure the chains cannot slip.
 
/ tire chains #57  
My chains are euro stud type with cross links at every 3rd link.

Very smooth ride and extremely rare to slip as there is always at least 2 cross links in road contact.
Basically home made.
 
/ tire chains #58  
==========================================================================================================

Hello and good morning SwampOwl,


You need chains; as you will have little to no adhesion unless you have loaded tires and chains.

The V bar and trygg snow and ice chains without studs will work well for you as long as they are installed correctly.

You need to let air out of both tires to assure you can tighten the chains to the last side chain link.

If you do not tighten both side chains to the last link they will spin on the tire and eventually become worthless for traction.

After you have the chains tightened up you put air back in the tires making sure the chains cannot slip.

"V bar" is not a style of chain, it is a type of stud which is an option on many different styles of chains. If he's worried about pavement damage, he does not want V bar chains.
 
/ tire chains #59  
"V bar" is not a style of chain, it is a type of stud which is an option on many different styles of chains. If he's worried about pavement damage, he does not want V bar chains.

If he does not slip/skid there should be no damage to pavement.
Just rolling won't damage pavement, besides road dirt soon hides any scratches.

'V bar' chains are not hardened either and wear rather fast vs real studded ones.
 
/ tire chains #60  
Dosnt your blactop driveway melt off at the faint hint of the sun? Scrape it clean, keep it clean and let the sun be the salt. If your afraid to dammage your driveway with chains just imagine what your vehicle will look like after sliding down that driveway when its a sheet of ice.
 

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