Tire Loading Trouble

[GregJ]

Thanks Pat. I chose the WW fluid because it is non-toxic, safe for the environment and a lot nicer to work with. When you spill it, you just end up with a clean spot. After all that I spilled on my shop floor, it's now cleaner than it's ever been. That wouldn't be the case if I was using anti-freeze or calcium. If I was prone to better luck, maybe I would have tried anti-freeze, but if there is an opportunity for a leak, or something to go wrong, I seem to find it. As far as cost, $36 is pretty cheap for the convenience.

Greg

 

[GregJ]

Ok... I'm finally loaded... Now I need a drink! What an ordeal. Two nights ago I loaded the first tire with the tube in it. The guy at the tire shop gave me the impression that the weight of the fluid would fill out the tube and there really wouldn't be a water balloon effect when I removed the hose and adapter after releasing the air pressure. I filled the tire, released most of the pressure although it seemed to take quite a while to release the pressure. When I removed the adapter, it was just like a water balloon shooting fluid all over my shop floor. Of course I only had a towel on the floor and I couldn't leave the tire because I had to hold on to the valve stem with a pair of pliers to keep it from getting sucked back into the wheel. Of course all the tools I needed weren't within reach and trying to install the valve back into the stem with my left hand with fluid shooting everywhere would have been humorous to anybody watching, but not real fun for me. I finally got the valve back in and stopped the disaster. I filled it with about 15lbs. of air and called it good for the night. This morning I had a better plan and had everything ready, drain pans to catch the overflow, needlenose pliers with a hose clamp to keep pressure on the valve stem, etc. The tire filled easily and I topped it off with 15lbs of air. All is good............Wrong. I fired up the tractor, let it warm up, cleaned up the shop floor ( Boy is it clean now ) and then I ran it up to the end of the road and back. On inspection, the tube I had just filled shifted when I ran the tractor and the valve stem was jammed sideways in the hole. Off with the wheel, (now it's heavy, I loaded it into my trailer with my fel) and back to the tire shop. We were able to fashion a curve tool to release the pressure, (this required me to sit there and hold it for about 30 minutes) and then we were able to spin the wheel inside the tire and pull the stem back out of the hole. After talking with this guy, my B7500 has industrial, not AG wheels, and they need 30 to 40 lbs. in them, even if they are loaded. He also said they are impossible to load without tubes. So I have now filled both my tires with 30lbs. and I'm not messin' with 'em anymore. That's my update. Tawoo... proceed cautiously. If you have any more questions, let me know.

Greg

 

[beenthere]

WOW! What an ordeal.

My approach, which worked, was to lay the tire down (R-4's) with a block under just the rim center, which left the back side (inside) of the tire hang off the rim (off the ground). I let the air out, then used a pry bar to break the bead on the "outside" (top) enough to pour the WW fluid into the tire.

I then used blocking to raise the tire enough that the top bead contacted the rim (the weight of the fluid kept the lower bead tight), put the valve stem back in, and filled it with air. No spillage, no tube, no leaks, no problems. The tire size is 15.0- 19.5

I mention this only so others are aware of "another way" to get the job done.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I'll second that WOW...

Took me a painless hour or so to fill the rear tires on my B2910 Kubota with WW fluid.

Also have a backhoe and used the stabilizers to hold the rear wheels off the ground...NEVER, EVER occured to me it could turn out to be such a project!

I think my tires are 12.4 x 16 though...did not need to use tubes...had no problem with the bead coming off the rim...

I put about 23 gallons in each tire.

Greg, did you mean 15 gallons when you typed 15 lbs?

Glad you got something accomplished in the end!

Bill in Pgh, PA

 

[GregJ]

First.... Beenthere, can you hear me muttering right now. Man I wish I had tried your method. It makes a lot of sense. I really didn't know what I was getting in to. Macher... I did start out with 15 lbs. in each tire and after talking with the tire guy he recommended 30lbs. for a loaded industrial style tire. These tires are rated for 40lbs. As far as volume, I was only able to get about 15 gallons in. I was hoping to get at least 20 in. This was a heck of a lot of work for a little over 100lbs. per wheel. I still like the idea of having even a little extra weight at the lowest, widest point on the tractor. I know I have a lot of weight with the BH hanging off the back, but a lot of that weight is above the rear axle.
I have gotten a lot of great ideas from this group, but I also appreciate it when people share their mistakes and blunders so we can all learn. I would have to say that I took the "scenic route" to complete this project. Hopefully, through all of my hard work, blunders, embarassing moments and bad luck, I have helped some others by sharing.

Greg

 

[Bird]

<font color=blue>did you mean 15 gallons when you typed 15 lbs</font color=blue>

He was talking about air pressure at that point; 15 psi (pounds per square inch).

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Hi,

Guess I had fluid on the brain or something...just getting back from a short vacation and all.../w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif Somehow I did not transition from liquid volumns to pressures...

I actually run 12 psi on my R4 tires filled with the WW fluid. I have had no problems at that pressure level Seems like 30 PSI would make a really hard tire!

I have noticed no spinning of the rims inside my tires, but have not caught my box blace on a root or big rock yet!

The reason I went with less pressure was to dig into the grass less when mowing...following the lead of others here at TBN.

Greg, maybe I missed something again, but would beenthere's method have worked in your case? Seems like it would not if you were having trouble keeping the tire bead seated when you let the air out.

Bill

 

[beenthere]

I'll chime back in, as I think it would have worked, even though his bead was unseated. I say that because the first tire I laid down flat and broke the bead on the top, also resulted in the bottom (inside) bead breaking because the weight of the rim dropped away from the bead. That is when I thought I would have problems, but remedied the problem when blocking up the rim, so the bottom (inside) of the tire rested on the rim at the bead. Filled with fluid, and then lifted the tire to close the top bead and put in the air. Slick as ..........

 

[GregJ]

Bill,
I don't know for sure if Beenthere's method would have worked for sure, but I would have been willing to try it. It would have saved me the grief the tubes gave me. I also like the idea of the weight of the fluid holding the bead evenly against the rim. That seems to make sense. I would be nervous about running my tires with 10-15psi with no tube though, after seeing how easily the bead unseated. I would want as much pressure as possible on that bead. Suggested pressure for my tires is 35-40 psi. However, I don't mow with my Kubota, so tearing up my lawn is not a critical consideration for me. I have a JD LX277 for mowing. I used my Kubota yesterday moving sand and brick and noticed a little difference in the ride and stability. All level work, but heavy loads. 156 bricks @ 5+ lbs per brick and wet sand. That's quite a bit for my B7500 and it didn't seem to flinch.

Greg

 

[MarkV]

Greg,

Your adventure with filling tires really has me wondering about the difference in our tires and rims. My B21 has 12.4-16 R4's that I filled the same way you did, actually mine went much easier than yours so I should say we used the same type of valve adapter and drill pump. I am not running tubes and have between 12 and 15 lbs. of pressure in the tires with out a problem in the last two years. Your tire guy says the 16.5 rims, as well as all .5 rims, run a different profile at the bead. Why??? Does anyone have any idea? If they don't hold the bead as well I can't think of a reason why the manufacture would use them.

MarkV