Tire pressure question

[WinterDeere]

I leave my rears near minimum manual-recommended pressure, as I have RimGuard in them, and valve stems are in inside... of which adds up to make changing rear tire pressure a total PITA.

My fronts get aired up to max sidewall pressure when doing a dedicated heavy job with the loader, and elsewise run near mid-range of manual recommended pressure. They're easy to air up/down with a few seconds of work, as stems face out and there's no fluid in my fronts. Fronts are the bigger safety (and hassle) issue, when doing heavy loader work.

 

[Oldbinder]

The missing serial & date stamp on the mold block strongly suggests that your tires are cheap knock-offs made from a copy of an existing real-deal tire. Mine (same size Titans) have a size and date code clearly visible on them in their mold plate block, even after 500+ hours. The brand shown on yours may be familiar, but there's probably more to the story. That may be why yours have the wear and weather checking appearance that they show.

The tires came from the factory with these tires. How else would know how to tell if they are knokoff tire?

 

[Oldbinder]

I leave my rears near minimum manual-recommended pressure, as I have RimGuard in them, and valve stems are in inside... of which adds up to make changing rear tire pressure a total PITA.

try this type of pressure gage/ inflater. The fitting just clips onto the valve stem, that way you don’t need hold it on the stem

 

[zzvyb6]

The tires came from the factory with these tires. How else would know how to tell if they are knokoff tire?

Dunno.. Mine came from a Deere purchased new for use on a golf course which came with A-4s on it. So, the new owner bought all new turfs and sold me the R-4 titans. So, this Deere had registered tires on it. Couple of ideas: Look carefully at your sidewall brand letters, figures, numbers and words. These should be clear, crisp, and uniform. A copied tire (yes there are plenty even in the automotive world now) won't have the resolution of the real deal. You'll probably notice continued deterioration of the exposed sidewall and tread blocks, especially from sunlight (UV acting on whatever polymer recipe was cheaper to specify).

Your tires could also have been rejects at some pre-formation process so the mold 'tag' was not issued for them. Poor belt can/tread overlap, air bubble, missing or chunked tread stock, wrong bead wire, no innerliner package, who knows....

BTW: my 1070 with RimGuard-ed rear tires has all 4 wheels planted just like I want them for snow and haying operations. Yes the front hub ring is larger than the hub pilot and the rear bolt circle was not EXACTLY as delivered, but things changed easily. I had to use a car lift to put them on.

 

[WinterDeere]

try this type of pressure gage/ inflater. The fitting just clips onto the valve stem, that way you don’t need hold it on the stem

Thanks. Yeah, I have three or four of those! Still a PITA to get the stem rotated to TDC, as both rears are never "clocked" the same, and then get between fender and tire to reach the valve stem. Often also muddy or snowy, depending on the season.

It's a doable job, just not something I want to be adjusting for various tasks, it's easier to just check them once per year. That was my only point. The fronts are easy enough that I don't mind airing them up for a single big loader task, and then airing them back down... but not the rears.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Thanks. Yeah, I have three or four of those! Still a PITA to get the stem rotated to TDC...

Maybe I'm over simplifying it, but I use a low pressure pencil type gauge no matter where the stem is positioned.

At first I thought the gauge would possibly get ruined by whatever the dealer put in the rears when the tractor was new 15 years ago, but so far it's hanging in there.

 

[ssgp2]

View attachment 962355On my rear tires (14.9- 24 R4) only has about 50% of the thread in contact with the ground. The instructions on the tires only say to not exceed 38 psi and the pressure is presently at 20 psi. The tires have rimgaurd in them and only 120 hrs on them. Even with a 6 ft Woods box scraper on the 3 point hitch the tire contact stays the same. Just having 50% of the tire in contact with the ground doesn’t seem right. Can I or do I need to decrease the pressure in order to get full contact?

Yes. The wear looks to be overinflated. Drop the pressure for the type of work you’re doing with the loads normally on the back. Wear should be even across the lugs. A chalk/paint test is a good way to get fast results. Paint or chalk the surface of the lug and see if it wears off evenly. Be careful not to under inflate.

 

[WinterDeere]

Maybe I'm over simplifying it, but I use a low pressure pencil type gauge no matter where the stem is positioned.

At first I thought the gauge would possibly get ruined by whatever the dealer put in the rears when the tractor was new 15 years ago, but so far it's hanging in there.

Good to know. I always go thru the hassle of getting the valve stems rotated to top, because that's the recommended procedure. But I always wonder why I bother, as I still get goo in the gauges. It's not like the inside end of that valve stem is magically dry when you rotate to TDC.

 

[oosik]

I have RimGuard in my rear tires. Rotate the valve stem to 12 O' clock - a couple or three quick puffs of air will blow the RimGuard back into the tire. Then take the pressure reading.

However - I prefer seeing the full contact patch on the ground.