TN Series

Rowski · Apr 1, 2004

O.K. here's my quote. New Holland dealers are far and few. This quote is from a dealer little less than 2 hrs away in New York State.

TN60DA (cab)
FWD
16x15 sycchro command with electroHydraulic power shuttle
mid mount remotes with joystick control
12.4R20 front tires and 16.9R28 rear tires
All the standard options
25mph road gear transmission
second rear remote
block heter
Deluxe cab filtration
32LA Quick-attach loader with mechanical self leveling
quick-attach bucket device
78" HD bucket
grill guard

Grand total $34500 before taxes

If I speed an additional $1800 I can be into a TN70DA, same tractor and options just more HP.

I will need to purchase a $395 kit to mount my 759C hoe on the TNA.

Just as a comparison... I got a quote on a Kubota L5030 hst cab tractor with loader for $32500.

Seems like I will get a lot more tractor (comapring L5030HSTCAB and a TN60DS) by spending $2K more.

So.... what do you think... is $34.5K a good price? Do I need to shop around??

Many thanks to all for your help!

mahlers · Apr 1, 2004

That looks like a good deal to me - especially since it's on the new body style. Also don't forget - NH just announced 0% financing for 36 months on TN's and TC's.

AndyMA · Apr 1, 2004

Derek

Sounds lke a fair price. Is that for 4 total remotes? I assume the 16x15 was really 16x16. You may want to get a price on front hydraulics since it is pretty handy to hang bobcat type accessories on the quick attach. I love my claws for picking up brush and logs. For $1800 if you can swing it I would go for the extra hp. You'll notice the difference and the additional "torque rise" will come in handy with the 25 mph and the chipper. I have the same chipper you have. Which ever way you go you'll love it. It really is quite a bit more tractor than the Kubota. And besides that the heater and ac work great (Unlike some of the posts on the Kubota cab) /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Andy

Rowski · Apr 4, 2004

( Is that for 4 total remotes?)

Yes, 2 mid mount and 2 rear.

( You may want to get a price on front hydraulics since it )

I did. to get the electro aux. couplers on the loader front cross member is $850. This would mean that a push button would exsist on the loader joystick. You push it and the aux couplers would be funtional through the dump and curl funtions. push the button again and and your dump and curl are funtional again. Very nice feature but at this time not really needed. I can get the aux couplers plumbed fron the rear remote (factory option) for $250. That might be better and I could also do it my self later too.

 Questions!!

How do they achieve the 25MPH speed? Is it in the 4th speed gear, 4th range gear, or is it just a seperate gear and lever?

What is the minimum width with the 16.9R28 rears? Is it 67.5"?

Are the tires radials? I believe they are, not sure?

Are there any other New Holland dealers around in the greater New England Area. The kind that just plain like to give the best price? I do all the service work myself, have my own trailer.

Any slightly used TN cab models out there??

Many thanks again for your help.

AndyMA · Apr 4, 2004

( 

( You may want to get a price on front hydraulics since it )

I did. to get the electro aux. couplers on the loader front cross member is $850. This would mean that a push button would exsist on the loader joystick. You push it and the aux couplers would be funtional through the dump and curl funtions. push the button again and and your dump and curl are funtional again. Very nice feature but at this time not really needed. I can get the aux couplers plumbed fron the rear remote (factory option) for $250. That might be better and I could also do it my self later too.
 Questions!!

How do they achieve the 25MPH speed? Is it in the 4th speed gear, 4th range gear, or is it just a seperate gear and lever?

What is the minimum width with the 16.9R28 rears? Is it 67.5"?

Are the tires radials? I believe they are, not sure?

Are there any other New Holland dealers around in the greater New England Area. The kind that just plain like to give the best price? I do all the service work myself, have my own trailer.
)

According to my manual, different bevel gears are used on the front and rear hubs so that every transmission speed is different. If you are concerned about the low sppeds as I think you were earlier they are all faster. As it doesn't change the PTO speed vrs engine rpm, all ground vrs PTO speeds are also changed.

I believe the R in that tire size indicates Radial construction.

The $250 hydrayulic option is th eone I have for my "claws" and it works well.

The narrowest track setting for 16.9-28 R1 (not R type) is 55.7 inches but I'm not sure where that is measured to. I suspect it may be measured to center of tire tread.

Hopefully this helps a little.

Andy

Rowski · Apr 21, 2004

Andy and other fellow TN'ers

Getting pretty close to ordering time. Just a few questions. Here is what I'm looking at including options.

TN60DA 4wd Cab Tractor
-16x16 Synchro Command Plus with Hydraulic shuttle
-Tire option 12.4R20 front and 16.9R28 rear
-Mid mount remote valve
-2 rear remotes (for a total of 4 hoses)
-32LC front end loader with MSL (self-leveling)
-Quick-attach bucket device
-Heavy duty bucket
-Grill guard
-Engine block heater
-Hydraulic filter protection kit
-Fixed external mirrors
-3 point hitch kit for 759C backhoe

I'm also going to inquire about getting into a TN70DA with the same otions listed above. I think one delaer mentioned that the cost difference between the TN60DA & TN70DA is $1800.

Does anyone have a suggetions as to anything else for options?

After this post gets some feed back I'll finalize the quote with my dealer and order up a New TN series /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif!

Again many thanks for all those who have helped.

Robert_in_NY · Apr 21, 2004

Unless NH redid some things the grill guard is a joke and was not worth wasting money on. Much easier to build your own and have something that will protect something. The hydraulic filter protection kit is just a piece of well casing welded to a plate and bolted to the tractor. I do not have one on my TN and have never had a problem and I have had to literally drive my TN thru 15' red brush to pick up one of our deer that escaped. I have had sticks poke thru and knock out shifting linkages before but none of them ever bothered the filter. I guess it is a piece of mind thing for the buyers. The MSL is ok but I know some people who have it and would not buy it again. It is easy to just adjust the bucket while you raise it and you can use the money saved on upgrading to the TN 70DA. Only features I don't see listed on there that you should consider is a block heater if you have to parked it outside for any reason during the winter (it helps so much but the TN will start still without it) and the other option is front fenders as they will throw up mud and such into the cab window and the fenders will cut that down considerably. I can't think of much else other than make sure your dealer tosses in a few extra tips for your hydraulic lines as they will come in handy. Take care.

AndyMA · Apr 21, 2004

Derek

Robert's advise is good. I do not have a block heater and have never even had to use the preheat to start. I guess warm is good. I don't think you can use fenders with loader. Same is true of protection for hydraulic filter, I don't think it is compatable with loader and I don't think you'll hit it with loader frame on anyway. I have MSL and wouldn't get it again. Severely limits roll back. the MSL doesn't bother me but I would like normal roll back. If you can swing it, go for the 70. You're stepping out of a 2120 because of lack of power ( and I don't consider my 2120 underpowered) and I'd hate to see you feel your TN is underpowered. I love the 75. I was doing some serious loader work this week with very wet loam and full 84" buckets of rocks and never had to exceed 1800 rpm. The turbo and torque rise helps. Also how fixed are the mirrors, I hope you can adjust them. I don't have them but will be adding them soon. Good luck.

Andy

Rowski · Apr 21, 2004

Robert and Andy

The block heater will be put on. Most dealers install them standard here. The grill guard doesn't look very beefy or protect well either. I was going to use it as a base or skeleton to mount better protection on, mesh, etc. Plus it only adds about about $130 to the price. The hydraulic filter guard cost $100 and the dealer claims it take 1/2 hr to install. But if they can install it as a delaer add on I can install it too. So we'll see about that one. As far a the TN60DA or TN70DA will come down to money but right now it looks good for the TN70DA. The mirrors are fixed vs telescoping. The fixed ones can be swung away. The cost about $75 and 1/2 hr install time. Fenders would be really nice but both dealers say they CAN get in the way with the loader.

The MSL loader has me up in the air. Some people like it others don't. I have never used one and no dealers close stock one. The dealers I taked to say the MSL package on the loader includes the quick-attach bucket device, were the standard loader has quick-attach as an option. Basically the difference is $500 more for the MSL loader with quick-attach than the standard loader with a quick-attach option. Also the new TN's come with a 32LC loader. The specs in the New Holland literature say is has 38 degree rollback angle. That seems like it is enough??

How does the MSL work? Does it keep the bucket at level through the lift height? Or does it keep the bucket at the angle it is at once lifting begins? Can it be over ridden?

AndyMA · Apr 21, 2004

( How does the MSL work? Does it keep the bucket at level through the lift height? Or does it keep the bucket at the angle it is at once lifting begins? Can it be over ridden?
)

It's an extra parallel arm above each loader arm. It cannot be over ridden- there in lies the problem. It keeps the loader at the angle you started at. If that was level, then that's where it stays. The only thing I find it useful for is pallet forks. I find it lousy with the bucket. I don't remember my rollback but it isn't enough. I'm trying to figure out how to remove my MSL. !/2 hour to install mirrors. 4 bolts into welded on blocks on cab, not even nuts. If you want to save $30 or so take them in box. I'm still confused about hydraulic filter. You used to not be able to get it with loader frame. The filter is protected pretty well by loader frame. Take the money and go for 70. Just me the guy who likes power. I spent over 9 hours today working at the farm on my house site. I moved some bolders by getting the forks under them and slidding them along. I estimate about 5000 #. TN had no trouble pushing them. They are about 5' x 3' x 2 ' or so. 30 cu feet x 166.5 lbs /cu ft. equals 4995 lbs. I spent rest of day, putting in silt fence- yuch all rocks and trees, very tough go. Had to keep building roads through very rocky forest for TN. I wouldn't get fenders. I'm in mud all the time and everything is muddy but not much on thecab. They would definately be in way of loader and at least on the older modles I don't think you could get them with loader.

Keep us posted

Andy

Rowski · Apr 22, 2004

I'll call the dealer and see if he can get me some more info. For what ever reason he is pushing the MSl loader. He doesn't have either standard or MSL in stock. I'll let you know.

Maybe Spencer200 has some advice?

Hard to find any good pictures on the internet of the new TNA series. But I found one on the New Holland Deutchland (Germany) site. These must be the 16.9R30 in the rear?

MikePA - Edited picture to proper size, 640 x 480

AndyMA · Apr 22, 2004

Derek

How far are you from Worcester Mass? My farm is 25 miles from Worcester. If you are interested, you could cme down and give the MSL a tryout. I bought it because at the time it was the only way to get the quick attach plate. I didn't think much about it. As I've said I wouldn't do it again.

Andy

Phred · Apr 22, 2004

I agree with andy and robert; the msl and grill gaurd is not worth the money.

I do not have the MSL and never missed it. With some practice you can keep it level as you raise it in one smooth joy stick motion. I just loaded 20 tons of lime up into a very tall buggy and no problems.

Robert's description of the grill gaurd is right on: "joke".
This thing is almost totally useless for all but very large objects. Maybe if you ran into a bale or something it would help. Worthless against brush.

I would get the 70. Some times I wish I stepped up to the 75, but the 70 gets the job done.
On the old design the 75 had a significantly bigger hyd. pump than the 55, 65, or 70.

That lime buggy the other day was close with the 70D. Probably the better part of 10K lbs at a time and some steep hills.
Low gear and some care and it worked fine.

But then again a local company uses a ~120 hp FWD tractor to pull these buggys. Probably more heavily loaded though.

I am not sure if I like the new design. Looks like some kind of sports car in the front rather than a tractor. I am partial to the old design.

Fred

EdwardSeeley · Apr 22, 2004

I would recommend the TN70, I traded up from a TN65 and the power difference is huge. I also got the 28" rears so I can run my studded logging chains in the woods. Front is now a 12.4X20 (radials) which are the same circumference as the old 9.5x24's, but much wider and work much better. The grip difference between the radials vs the old tires is substantial. I also move alot of snow in Western New York and never use chains unless I'm in the woods skidding tree or plowing woods roads. On the driveway, (gravel and black top) I use a loader mounted plow and a 84" blower on the rear and have never felt the need for chains unless you get glare ice. I do not like the MSL loader, I like my old non MSL better, except when using pallet forks. I also ordered the underhood exhaust and like it much better, no problems with clearance in brush and woods use.

AndyMA · Apr 22, 2004

( Robert's description of the grill gaurd is right on: "joke".
This thing is almost totally useless for all but very large objects. Maybe if you ran into a bale or something it would help. Worthless against brush.
)

Fred, I actually like the grill guard, I agree it could use some web steel or something to fill it in. I swung several heavy items into it this week and took off much of its paint, but no damage to grill. I think it is ok by itself and a good base to weld on a little more metal for better protection. It is pretty heavy and has a bunch of bends I'd rather not have to make myself. I'll repeat for the 1000th time, I think the MSL is a pain and I don't like it for anythink but forks. I think Edward put both the power thing and the MSL in perspective as he has had noth a 65 and 70. Remember I love power and I love the 75. I probably wouldn't notice the difference between a 70 and 75 but I've used a 65 and I sure can tell. And nobody asked, but I think my 2120 has a better power to weight ratio than a TN55, at least thats the way it felt when I tried out one with a loader in a pile ????

Andy

AndyMA · Apr 22, 2004

( On the old design the 75 had a significantly bigger hyd. pump than the 55, 65, or 70.
)

It's still the same way, only the 75's get the big pump and cooler standard.

Andy

AndyMA · Apr 22, 2004

Derek

Here i am still pushing you to spend your money. Read my above post and I think you should try and get the 70 and upgrade to the 16.9 gpm hydraulic pump with cooler. Keep us posted.

Andy

Rowski · Apr 23, 2004

( I also got the 28" rears so I can run my studded logging chains in the woods. )

You don't know happy I am to here that!!

( I also ordered the underhood exhaust and like it much better, no problems with clearance in brush and woods use. )

Where does the exhaust come out?

Rowski · Apr 23, 2004

Andy

I'm in the center of VT at the canadian border. So I'm guessing about 3 to 4 hrs away.

On the new TN series the standard pump flow is 12.4 gpm. The optional 16.9 gpm with cooler is available on all the models (ecxept economy model). According to my dealer is comes standard with with a power shuttle. Also standard is 9.2 gpm for steering on power shuttle. The standard is 7.2 gpm.

I am almost 100% certain that i'm going with a TN70DA.