TN75 Hydraulic Leak at 3pt and resevoir

   / TN75 Hydraulic Leak at 3pt and resevoir #21  
A few seconds with a small welding tip at the center of the wire ring takes all the fight out of them. Be sure to bevel the edges of the new ones before you install them(in case you might the one dealing with them next time)
 
   / TN75 Hydraulic Leak at 3pt and resevoir #22  
A few seconds with a small welding tip at the center of the wire ring takes all the fight out of them. Be sure to bevel the edges of the new ones before you install them(in case you might the one dealing with them next time)

It also pays to drive the bushing back away from the ring before going after it using either method..
 
   / TN75 Hydraulic Leak at 3pt and resevoir #23  
Dang I wish I would of thought of beveling the Rings great tip.

Harry can you explain what you are talking about with the welding tip at the center of the wire ring?

Rick if you know what Harry is referring to feel free to explain

Thanks
 
   / TN75 Hydraulic Leak at 3pt and resevoir #24  
Dang I wish I would of thought of beveling the Rings great tip.

Harry can you explain what you are talking about with the welding tip at the center of the wire ring?

Rick if you know what Harry is referring to feel free to explain

Thanks

I think I understand, but I'm not sure enough to comment. One shot with a cape chisel works well enough for me, and doesn't add heat.
 
   / TN75 Hydraulic Leak at 3pt and resevoir #25  
I have a leak on the same place on my TN75DA 2004 model with cab. Great thread and I plan to follow it for the most part- and I have some concerns because I know nothing about the hydraulic fluid system - is there a drain to catch all the fluid? Can I reuse the hydraulic fluid? Does it make sense to jack up one side of the tractor while I do that side to tilt the fluid away from leaking more? 2) when I return the hydraulic fluid - if it all needs to be drained and then replaced, I guess I should replace the spin off hydraulic filter? After adding new fluid, will I need to bleed off air from it from somewhere? I was told it holds 18 gallons of hydraulic fluid? Wow that is the expensive part! is there some way to avoid all this hydraulic fluid issue as it has likely only leaked a few gallons so far.
 
   / TN75 Hydraulic Leak at 3pt and resevoir #26  
Find some CLEAN containers(Itry to keep some 2 1/2 gal jugs around just for this purpose). You have about 7 to 9 gallons to catch, so four jugs or two 5 gallon buckets will do. Find a short hose with threads you can screw a pioneer male tip onto, and plug it into a remote valve coupler. Let the tractor idle, direct the open end of the hose into a container, and operate the valve to flow oil into the jug or bucket. When it's NEAR full, stop the flow and move to another container. Repeat until the pump starts to suck air, then shut it off. One empty bucket under the rear drain plug should catch what's left. After the oil settles in the containers, the crud will settle to the bottom. Pour the best off the top back into the tractor as you see fit unless it's so dirty or contaminated you don't feel comfortable with it. Filter replacement is a judgement call. If the oil all looks good, leave the filter alone. If you change the oil, change the filter as well.
 
   / TN75 Hydraulic Leak at 3pt and resevoir #27  
I know this is an old thread but mine is leaking bad. About to fix it and looked up the parts on Messick's. From what I can tell the parts I need is the Circlip, Seal and O-Ring. Have most of you had to replace the bushing also? They are pricey but if I need to then I will. Haven't broke into the lifts yet so just wondering.
 
   / TN75 Hydraulic Leak at 3pt and resevoir #28  
It's not hard to damage the bushings while removing them. The torsion bar may need to be replaced due to pitting, etc.
 
   / TN75 Hydraulic Leak at 3pt and resevoir #29  
RickB: I figured I'd be lucky to get a reply on such an old thread but a reply within one minute. Thanks!
 
   / TN75 Hydraulic Leak at 3pt and resevoir #30  
Well I attempted to replace them this weekend. The Circlip (keeper ring) was no problem, it took about a minute to remove them then I got to the bushings. Those things are in there. We tried several things. Pounding, putting them in vice to push them out and couldn't get them to budge. Beginning to think they are welded in but know that's not the case. Maybe I need to get more physical with them but I've been a little cautious not to bust the support. I guess sledge hammer is next. Any other suggestions before I get so physical? image1.JPGimage2.JPG
 

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