TN75D $$

MikeF · Aug 29, 2003

I am looking to buy a larger machine for hay making and I am leaning towards the TN75D over the M6800. I like Kubota and am currently using a L4310, but it just is not heavy enough for safely pulling a bailer & wagon. The price I got for the TN75D w/4x4,std 16x16, & loader valve (no loader) is $27,950. I have owned several Massey's & Kubota's and they were all good machines. But I really like the features on the TN. Also is anyone using A TN for haying and how is it!

thanks Mike

k9roccy · Aug 29, 2003

I just had a new TN75D at my place for a 5 day demo. Here are a couple of items you might check out. It had 40 hrs when delievered.

A few points I noticed:

Both rear axle seals were leaking grease. You can spot this easily by looking for the residue on the inside bottom rear rim. Easy to see on the white rims. Look for Hyd oil high on the rear below the outlets. Check for this.

The left loader arm contacts the top of the exhaust stack when you attempt to raise the loader all the way. The loader cycle time was was good. In fact you have to watch how you move the loader control on the bucket or you slam it against the stops at the end of bucket travel. I got used to the valve quickly and with a soft touch the bucket was no problem. Hydraulic limitations are no problem for this model.

This machine has a vibration when the 4WD is engaged. Click it off and the vibration goes away. The ag tires may have magnified this. I use R4 tires and they seem to provide a smoother ride and this vibration may not be as noticeable.

Transmission and clutch were smooth. On the roll shifts were excellent - 16X16 power shuttle. I took it out on the road and it did well in the high ranges. The shuttle was perfect. My wife transitioned to this transmission easily. She was used to a operating a hydro and no experience with a clutch. Steering was positive and did not wander. Its a good deal when your wife thinks a tractor is a must have. I get to trade for new almost every 3 years.

Maybe the coldest cab air I have ever seen. It was 90+ here and the air was great, even at idle. Cab layout was nice. All controls are easily within reach. Good outside lighting front and rear. Although this machine had only a small light fixture inside the cab. Not enough inside light for me. The top of the cab is plastic....Didn't leak, I hit it with the sprinkler for a 1/2 an hour.

The smv sign was mounted high right behind the rear window so you could not open the window all the way. Mount this in another place.

The seat could use alittle more padding. When entering the left side of the cab you notice a handhold on the right would be nice. You can grab the cup holder or the door rail on the inside of the cab.

I did not run anything on the pto which required alot of hp. I square bale so my hp requirements are not huge. My alfalfa is not ready to cut yet or I would have ran the mo-co with it. Don't know how much hp reduction will occur when running the airconditioner. If your hp requirement is at the limit, I would investigate this....don't use the manufacturer's stats.

The only item I was really concerned about was the rear axle seals.

The machine performed very well in all the tests I put it through. I am testing a deere machine next.

Just a few items for you to consider. Get your dealer to drop a demo machine for a test. By the way, this machine is headed to the Farm Progress show if you want to look at it.

Good Luck.

bgott · Aug 30, 2003

The rear axle bearings are greased through a zerk on the outside of the rear axle hub. If you shoot too much grease in the bearings it comes out the seals. It's not a problem, it's the way it was designed. That way you can push the water out when you run through high water. The first time I greased the rear bearings on my TN 65 I had someone slowly drive the tractor forward while I steadily pumped grease into the bearings. I had a ton of grease around the seal and dripping on the wheels. I'm talking about a fat ring of grease an inch or two in diameter. Three or four squirts while rolling slowly is all you need.

Robert_in_NY · Aug 30, 2003

I agree with everything said here and as far as oil below the remotes, that happens when you plug and unplug hydraulic hoses. It is common as there is always a small bit of oil in between the hose tips and the valve that has to go somewhere when the hose is disconnected. So unless it was leaking from somewhere else do not worry about it.

MikeF · Sep 1, 2003

Ok, I agree with whats been said & apriciate the info. How about the price I was quoted and the use that I am intending ?

thanks Mike

Robert_in_NY · Sep 2, 2003

The price seems in line but I have not priced a 75 in a few months to know for sure. I do not use my 65 for baling but there are a few guys here that use their TN's for baling and love them. I also have a friend that uses his TN 75 2wd for baling and has never had a problem with it. They are very nice machines and if you have any doubts you should ask the dealer to allow you to demo one in the fields for a few days to make sure it will work. Cowboydoc just had a problem with a new JD 5020 series he bought for haying. The cab sucked too much power and he was having to downshift for hills so JD took it back and gave him a deal on a larger tractor. Give it a spin in the field doing what you think is the most demanding job there and see how she holds up and let us know. Hope that helps.

farmerpsv · Sep 3, 2003

Hey all
Gee whiz wally, this thread has me wonderin. I had pretty much decided on a TN65, and now this question about haying and hp. I have an old JD 2020 55hp, 47pto. I have a heavy duty tiller that really overheats the engine. I can get away with about 1/2 an acre before it starts threatening to fry. The NH dealer seems to think the 65 will handle it okay, tiller is rated at 50hp low end (it's a 60" Maschio if anyone is familiar with Italian tillers). I still havn't decided on 4wd either, I've never had it , is it worth the extra 5k? should i be looking at a TN75 instead? sorry...maybe i should have started a new thread.
thanks
paul

cowboydoc · Sep 4, 2003

If NH is like Deere I would sure look twice. That was my other problem on the 5420 was it got right up to the red haying. On the smaller tractors the pto hp is rated WITHOUT the cab. If you get a 65 with a cab you won't be much better than your 55hp tractor. If you're going 2wd I would definitely go with a TN 75. My dealer thought I would be ok with the 5420 too but it wasn't. I would get the tractor you want to buy and run it with tiller and baler and make sure it's going to do the job. I know deere was really good about trading my 5420 back but not sure if NH would do the same.

farmerpsv · Sep 4, 2003

Well yeah, Cowboydoc,
I am doing a double take here. My tiller is a mondo heavy duty, and I paid a ton for it, so I'm loath to give it up, plus it has 4 speeds, which is kind of cool when incorporating ammendments. anyway, it's rated at 50-60 hp, and it definately overheats my JD which has a pto of 47. i've read somewhere on this site that the TN65 actually produces more hp than it specs out at, but i got burned when i bought the tiller by the expert that said my tractor would handle it, they didn't have the scruples of your JD dealer, so I'm wondering if i need to step up to the TN70, it's kind of a borderline question. everyones pretty much convinced me to go with 4wd, the TN70 tacks on anther 2100. sigh
paul

Phred · Sep 4, 2003

I run a 4x5 round baler with a TN70D.
I think this is the minimum. The 70 hp does a good job even when the air is running and its 100 oF outside.
I also have run this on slopes without any problems.

I bought a 70 since it was on the lot and therefore a good deal.

If I had to do it again I might buy the 75 but nothing smaller than the 70.
The biggest advantage of the 75 is more hydraulic flow over all the other TN models. This is important for PHD and other hydraulic loads.

Fred

Robert_in_NY · Sep 4, 2003

The TN 65 has roughly 5 more hp then listed. NH did this to have a machine rated about the same as the 3930 so people could replace their 3930 without having to "think" they are buying a bigger tractor. It was easier to just change the numbers on the literature then to depower the engines so anyone who has a 65 will tell you they have more power then they were told. It is smart as they will never be disappointed with their TN's power.

I still say demo a TN 65. hook it to your tiller and run the crap out of it to see how the TN handles it. It is easier to demo a tractor for a few days then to be stuck with a few years of payments for a tractor that won't handle your equipment.

farmerpsv · Sep 4, 2003

thanks robert,
i think you were the one who enlightened us before on this one. demo is the next step...just narrowing it down right now. the NH dealer seems confident that the 65 will do, we'll see.
paul

MikeF · Sep 4, 2003

I'm glad to hear the talk about the TND's, and it does sound as if those that have them like them very much. The idea of demoing a machine is a great one and in the past I have! The problem I seem to be having is no dealers in my area have a TND on the lot. I could probably demo the M6800 Kubota but I had sort of ruled that machine out. Also the reply about the round bailer behind the 70 was good to hear. How about a square bailer & hay wagon what are your thoughts? I plan to fill the rear tires & put a full rack of weights on the front !

Tx Mike

AndyMA · Sep 4, 2003

I have a TN75D and like it very much. As far as the AC goes, when it's 95 out and humid and I switch it on I barely notice the power drop, much less that I do in my car. I have pulled a NH square bailer once and found no problems up and down hills. I did not pull a wagon at the same time. I do use my loader to move a lot of heavy granite. I can pick up over 3500# with my rock forks and put it on the dual axle trailer. I know the trailer is over 15,000# when loaded and the TN has no problems moving it up and down hills. BTW I do not notice the vibration when 4 wheel drive in engaged, rear differential lock either for that matter. Love the cab, AC and stereo, along with the air filtration system and sun shades. On the cab model the exterior lighting is superb, both fron and rear. I highly recomment the 16x16 Hydralic Power Shuttle. I run a Woods 1050 backhoe on mine a lot of the time. The 75 has plenty of power and weight for everything that I try to do with it. I have the Quick Attach loader and use Bob Cat type forks on it quite ofter. With the forks on, I can pick up one end of an 8800# 40' container and slide the whole container as long as I have the weight up close to the back of the forks.

If you have any other questions let me know.

Andy

AndyMA · Sep 4, 2003

One more quick point, I had a TN75S first and traded it for the TN75D. The S had the older style PTO lever between your legs and the D has the new style on the side arm rest near the hand throttle. This is a little lever that must be assisted somehow since it engages so easily. When you turn off the tractor if you haven't disengaged the PTO you can watch the lever disengage itself. Besides how easy it works compared to the lever between your legs, you don't trip over it. I definately prefer it to the older style.

Maybe these aren't older and newer styles? Where are the rest of you TN owner's PTO levers located? Just curious

Andy

Robert_in_NY · Sep 5, 2003

My TN is one of the oldest TN 65S's on this board as it was made in early 2000 and the PTO lever is on my left in a easy place to reach. I have never seen a PTO lever where you described and will ask my dealer about it to see if the very first TN's before mine were like that or if you had a special tractor at first.

AndyMA · Sep 5, 2003

Interesting Robert,

Now we have PTO levers in 3 different positions, left (yours), center (my former TNS), and right by the hand throttle (my current TND). My owners manual shows the lever to be located directly below the steering column. Is you lever located to the left of the seat similar to where mine is on a 2120?

Andy

40Kchicks · Sep 5, 2003

The M8200 is more comparable to the TN75. Your Kubota dealer should be able match the price of the TN75 to a M8200. If he doesn’t then find a dealer that will. The dealer I ended up buying my M9000 was a couple thousand less than the TN75.
Eric

Robert_in_NY · Sep 5, 2003

Mine is to the left of the seat. Same as my 1920's but the TN's works a lot easier.

cowboydoc · Sep 5, 2003

All the row crop tractors will almost always be rated at 20-30 hp below their actual hp to account for the cabs. That was the mistake my dealer made in thinking the 5000 series was the same way.