TO 30 water in oil

[bigtbassman]

Ferguson TO 30. In checking the dip stick I see a milky oil way up on the stick. I've researched the subject and found this is a common problem. Today I tried the Bars Leak $22 that mixes with antifreeze trying to get lucky but I doubt if it will fix my problem. I'm thinking that this tractor had this problem when I bought it a month ago. I checked the oil and it was clean, probably too clean. The guy advised me to always shut off the gas which I keep forgetting. This couldn't be gas in the oil could it. Where should I start besides buying a shop manual. Any advice would be appreciated. Terry from Boise

 

[TractorTech]

It could be a leaking head gasket (this would be lucky). The engine sleeves leaking at their base where they seal the water jacket from the crankcase or the webbing in this area between two cylinders is cracked. The latter is the worst case scenario, but not uncommon. It costs quite a bit to repair, machine, etc.

Unfortunately, it probably was leaking prior and covered up. One possible band aid would be flush the cooling system of Bar's and rust. Get some "liquid glass" block sealer. It can be had from a good auto parts store. There is no guarantee, but it s an alternative to expensive overhaul or overhaul/machining.

Hope it is not the case. Good luck

Ted

 

[MasseyWV]

I'm thinking that this tractor had this problem when I bought it a month ago. I checked the oil and it was clean, probably too clean.

Clean (new) oil is always a huge red flag for me.

If the oil is white and milky, it's possible that it's contaminated with gas or that coolant is leaking into it from somewhere. If it's contaminated with gas, it will have a strong odor of gasoline. It could also be a blown head gasket, which can be easily diagnosed with a compression test. Otherwise, you may be looking at tearing down the engine to locate the problem.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Ferguson TO 30. In checking the dip stick I see a milky oil way up on the stick. I've researched the subject and found this is a common problem. Today I tried the Bars Leak $22 that mixes with antifreeze trying to get lucky but I doubt if it will fix my problem. I'm thinking that this tractor had this problem when I bought it a month ago. I checked the oil and it was clean, probably too clean. The guy advised me to always shut off the gas which I keep forgetting. This couldn't be gas in the oil could it. Where should I start besides buying a shop manual. Any advice would be appreciated. Terry from Boise

Milky oil is a sure sign of coolant in the cranckcase.The Z129 Coninental block is prone to cracking betwee the cylinders near the top deck. often the cracks stop there. Some don't however. There are also oring seals at the base of the liners than can also crack with age and cause the problem. If you're lucky it's a headgasket leak. Drain the oil/coolant mix and let it drain overnight so all the oil drips into to the collecting container and then drop the pan. Look up and see if you can spot where the coolant is coming from. You may be lucky and find it's the orings. Maybe a blocksealer can help you. If not there are at least two repair methodsfor a cracked block. Tension rods across the water jacket to pull it together and furnace brazingthe cracks. The former was the factory fix and the later is the more modern fix. the other option is to find a good block. If it's the o-rings, you'll have to pull the sleeves and replace them.

 

[RickB]

Clean (new) oil is always a huge red flag for me.

If the oil is white and milky, it's possible that it's contaminated with gas .

Actually, it's not possible. Coolant, yes; gasoline, no.

 

[bucktaker]

I was going to sell my MF35 but discovered the same thing.


just went through the same thing with Z134. On tear down nothing was evident so I took the sleeves out and some of the o rings were iffy looking. Saw one slight discoloration of one valve and a possible head water leak nothing conclusive.

In the end I decided to to a complete overhaul as my engine was still wired on the bottom end and had never been overhauled.New bearings, Pistons, Rings,Sleeves, Timing Gears, Rebuilt oil pump, Ground crank .010 rods reconditioned,Block cleaned and verified , Head rebuilt and decked.
More money yes but I have complete cofidence in his tractor again and can pass along that to any prospective buyer.

I recommend you start with removing the head and haveing it decked and gone through. Reinstall and hope. If you problem is still in the oil then go farther

 

[RickB]

Removing the oilpan and pressurizing the cooling system will often reveal whether the coolant is coming from outside the sleeve (o-ring/block problem) or from within the sleeve (sleeve/head gasket/head problem).

 

[bigtbassman]

It is gas in the oil. I remember the guy always turned off the gas and let the motor die. I'm thinking the float in the carb is stuck. What else should I check. Thanks Terry

 

[RickB]

It is gas in the oil. I remember the guy always turned off the gas and let the motor die. I'm thinking the float in the carb is stuck. What else should I check. Thanks Terry

I've never, ever seen gas turn motor oil a milky color.

 

[bigtbassman]

I would say the color is more light brown but smells like gas. T

 

[bucktaker]

try this ....let the tractor sit overnight take a clear jar and just barely crack the oil drain bolt and catch the first few drops if its water in the oil water will be the first out. Gasoline will dilute with the oil and you wil have your milky oil mix first.

My bet is its water/antifreeze

 

[MasseyWV]

Actually, it's not possible. Coolant, yes; gasoline, no.

I've never, ever seen gas turn motor oil a milky color.

Yes, it is possible, as evidenced by the OP's findings. I've seen it many times, which is why I suggested it could be the cause.

It is gas in the oil.

I would say the color is more light brown but smells like gas.

Gas in oil usually has more of a brownish color, much like the color of a chocolate milk shake, and water in oil tends to be more white in color. Sometimes it's hard to tell the difference between gas and water in oil, but the smell always gives it away.

 

[RickB]

Yes, it is possible, as evidenced by the OP's findings. I've seen it many times, which is why I suggested it could be the cause.





Gas in oil usually has more of a brownish color, much like the color of a chocolate milk shake, and water in oil tends to be more white in color. Sometimes it's hard to tell the difference between gas and water in oil, but the smell always gives it away.

So when somebody say a fluid is milky, I think white, not brown. Go figure.
Most clean engine oil is brownish without adding anything to it. If he's lucky, it is gas. Much cheaper problem to fix.

 

[MasseyWV]

So when somebody say a fluid is milky, I think white, not brown. Go figure.
Most clean engine oil is brownish without adding anything to it. If he's lucky, it is gas. Much cheaper problem to fix.

The difference is as much in the texture of the oil as in the color, it will have a "milky" appearance to it because the addition of a thinner liquid (water or gasoline) reduces the viscosity of the oil to a point that it foams easily. It's one of those things that is difficult to describe, which is probably why most people tend to describe it as being "milky", but you know it when you see it.

 

[bigtbassman]

The gas smell is really evident. I poured some of the oil mix in a jar to see if it would seperate. It didn't. I'll see if I am able to locate a carb rebuild here locally and do a rebuild. I can only guess that the float is sticking or the needle that shuts off the gas is worn. Like the guy said, gas in the oil is probably an easier fix. Terry

 

[bigtbassman]

In researching my problem I came across a guy listing do's and don'ts for Ford N's. He said always shut off the gas or a faulty carb will fill your crankcase with gas. Terry