Ballast To load or not to load. That is the question.

[Turbys_1700]

Since sloshing has been mentioned...Is it wise to always fill rear tires to the valve stem or do some choose to only 50% fill their tires.
I am about to load mine before winter. The tire shop strongly advises filling to the top.

We always fill to the valve stem. That will be approximately 75% of the total volume.

 

[SirMaxwell]

We have never talked about the sloshing waterbed like feeling, because we have never heard nor felt any such thing.

Really? Drive forward at moderate speed, STOP. Unless your tires are 100% filled that water is gonna move. It does the same thing as you traverse uneven terrain. Is it huge? No. But it occurs.

 

[k0ua]

Really? Drive forward at moderate speed, STOP. Unless your tires are 100% filled that water is gonna move. It does the same thing as you traverse uneven terrain. Is it huge? No. But it occurs.

Never noticed it.

 

[PEJ5]

I will fully loaded the tires tomorrow. Around here (Canada) RV antifreeze is $4 per US gallon so for my tire size that is $200/tire plus installation. Still, it sounds like the safest thing to do, especially for a rookie.

 

[SPYDERLK]

We have never talked about the sloshing waterbed like feeling, because we have never heard nor felt any such thing.

Really? Drive forward at moderate speed, STOP. Unless your tires are 100% filled that water is gonna move. It does the same thing as you traverse uneven terrain. Is it huge? No. But it occurs.

Yes, it occurs. But it should be in a proportion that is almost just theoretical in nature unless the tire has a rather low fill ratio. It seems you would need highly inflated underfilled turfs running on concrete to notice it.

At normal 75-80% fill the fluid actually begins to flow around the tire and the slosh when stopping is nearly balanced - - effectively, an extremely small oscillating mass in proportion to that of the tractor, and with the inherent rolling friction acting as a damper.​

 

[delgra]

Howdy, Yes getting a heater and a big cheater bar for the filter wrenches. The CK35 took 2 of us to get one off. Put an 3 hours on it so far today!! Feel like a 12 year old again!

 

[SPYDERLK]

Howdy, Yes getting a heater and a big cheater bar for the filter wrenches. The CK35 took 2 of us to get one off. Put an 3 hours on it so far today!! Feel like a 12 year old again!

Quick. Find out where this belongs and put it there.

 

[PEJ5]

Based on everyone's great advice I loaded the rear tires on my new-to-me DK5010hs - 50 gallons/400 lbs per side. Spreading crushed rock with the FEL showed that I am still a little light and could use a ballast box. I connected the 3Pt snowblower (600lb) for winter and gave it a test run with Friday's 6 inches of snow. Now I suspect I am light in the front end.
Should I consider loading the front tires as well? Would it be worth the effort? Other advice?

A word of thanks to TBN. I have read up on many topics as I have waited to press my tractor into action. It has been on site for two weeks now and I am having fun. I am a complete rookie but learning as I go. I reworked and graded my gravel driveway using my neighbour's blade and it turned out great - a bit to my surprise. Then I used it to grade the crushed rock in front of the garage saving a great deal of raking. I've only put 10 hours on the tractor so far but there are many jobs ahead come spring. With an average 8 feet of snow per winter, it will get a winter workout too.

 

[the old grind]

... I connected the 3Pt snowblower (600lb) for winter and gave it a test run with Friday's 6 inches of snow. Now I suspect I am light in the front end. Should I consider loading the front tires as well? Would it be worth the effort? Other advice? ..

For reference, I do most snow removal with the FEL & std bucket w/3 small 'Edge Tamers' on it's lip. 550' here, another 100' and half a dozen parkings spaces for the folks 'up front'. All gravel except a 20' approach to my garage. I have Rim Guard in rear R-4s.

Until you decide whether you need to fill the fronts for blower use, just start a job pushing as I do until you get a good packed bucket full and carry it a foot or so above the ground as you run in reverse. Not all tires work the same in variable plowing conditions.

If I thought I'd ever want chains for Winter I'd as soon do fronts vs rears. Lo buck car crap would work, steering would be as good as ever if not better, and on/off seems easy with FEL to lift axle for stands as usual.

btw, welcome to TBN PEJ5, and what did you mean by 'other'? t o g

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Based on everyone's great advice I loaded the rear tires on my new-to-me DK5010hs - 50 gallons/400 lbs per side. Spreading crushed rock with the FEL showed that I am still a little light and could use a ballast box. I connected the 3Pt snowblower (600lb) for winter and gave it a test run with Friday's 6 inches of snow. Now I suspect I am light in the front end.
Should I consider loading the front tires as well? Would it be worth the effort? Other advice?

A word of thanks to TBN. I have read up on many topics as I have waited to press my tractor into action. It has been on site for two weeks now and I am having fun. I am a complete rookie but learning as I go. I reworked and graded my gravel driveway using my neighbour's blade and it turned out great - a bit to my surprise. Then I used it to grade the crushed rock in front of the garage saving a great deal of raking. I've only put 10 hours on the tractor so far but there are many jobs ahead come spring. With an average 8 feet of snow per winter, it will get a winter workout too.
View attachment 579520View attachment 579523

Your place looks nice. :thumbsup: Looking at the tires, they look over inflated. Full tread width should be touching the ground and an ever so slight bulge on the rear tires.

I personally have all 4 tires filled on both of my utility tractors. That little extra weight gives you that little additional bit of traction. Very few people do this, but I have found it to be beneficial for my uses.

Enjoy your new equipment.