Big Barn
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Thanks murph1. Being retired makes it easier.
Todays shop time.
- Thread starter 4570Man
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OP
4570Man
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I built a set of trailer ramps. These are channel iron. I’ve built angle iron ramps before and the angle is much easier to work with.
Big Barn
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Nice. How long are they, what is deck height and what machines are you loading?
OP
4570Man
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They’re 60” long which is probably overkill. The deck height is probably 18” but I never measured. The machines that will be loaded is a Polaris ranger or a lawnmower.
Big Barn
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I made a (slip on forks) carpet pole attachment for the farm this week. It was nice using up old material and not having to buy anything new for a change.
I would usually use dual shield for this job but instead I tacked it up with MIG and stick welded with 7018 just because I was in the mood.
The thing that comes to mind is that I was reminded how much quieter cutting with oxy-acetylene is than plasma. And how much I love stick welding. It’s kind of relaxing and I just kind of zone out.
I would usually use dual shield for this job but instead I tacked it up with MIG and stick welded with 7018 just because I was in the mood.
The thing that comes to mind is that I was reminded how much quieter cutting with oxy-acetylene is than plasma. And how much I love stick welding. It’s kind of relaxing and I just kind of zone out.
dragoneggs
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Terry, excuse my ignorance. What is the yellow unit next to your gaggle of Miller equipment?
Oh, and I love the sound of plasma cutting!
Oh, and I love the sound of plasma cutting!
Big Barn
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Terry, excuse my ignorance. What is the yellow unit next to your gaggle of Miller equipment?
Oh, and I love the sound of plasma cutting!
Oh that’s the rod oven I use for my 7018 rods. I find HOT rods run way nicer and I need all the help I can get.
Wooof!!
What brand are those?
Would one of those lonely, still in the box vices maybe be for sale?
I would promise to give it a forever home inside my basement, eventually moving into my future shop, & away from any heathens that would abuse it.
Big Barn
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I found this ten pound No.11 Record anvil last week. I hardie-staked it to get it at a usable height for gentle forming jobs.
Big Barn
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Sawyer Rob
Super Member
My shop time is, my shop is getting a new roof,
We are not done with it, yet...
SR
We are not done with it, yet...
SR
dragoneggs
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Just in time, eh? :thumbsup:My shop time is, my shop is getting a new roof,
We are not done with it, yet...
SR
Sawyer Rob
Super Member
Yup, it was starting to leak at the transition where it connects to the building on the right, in the pict...
That's now, NO longer a problem!
SR
That's now, NO longer a problem!
SR
cabover4us
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Thats a fantastic question, new garage going up is 2 x 6 with sheathing and tyvac with metal roof and walls (exterior). Do I use pink insolation for studded ceiling and walls? I am worried about attic dripping from the steel roof, it will drip onto ceiling pink insolation. Should the roof be sheathed also?
I run a 375,000 btu propane salamander.
BukitCase
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"Should the roof be sheathed also?
I run a 375,000 btu propane salamander. "
I would definitely sheath the roof, then tar paper or similar, THEN the metal - this allows any condensation from the steel to run down the tar paper and off the roof. The sheathing also makes it much quieter inside the building, and gives a more gradual temperature gradation between outside and inside, lessening any condensation that would drip on the insulation.
My shop started out as a pole barn, bare metal roof - every time the weather changed, it would RAIN INSIDE - I had it re-roofed with 5/8 plywood sheathing and 3-tab shingles to match the house - it got a LOT quieter, and doesn't rain inside at all...
I have about HALF that size propane salamander, and I completely QUIT USING IT for anything but nasty, OUTSIDE repairs while laying on my back in mud in winter - because the combustion of propane produces almost exactly one gallon of WATER for each gallon of propane burned -
This means that you'd be warming up the air so it will hold MORE water (dew point) and then PROVIDING that water with your heater.
In my case, I had 3-4 coats of paste wax on all my cast iron tools (table saw, jointers, planers, one of the router tables, etc) and they STILL rusted...
Here's a little more, depending on how deep you wanna go
Google Answers: Combustion of natural gas
If you MUST use ANY gas for heat, I would look at a heater that includes a heat exchanger, and vents to the OUTSIDE - that'll make the single biggest difference in how much rust you have to deal with. Here's the type I'm talking about
Products - Unit Heaters - UDAP | Reznor
I know they aren't cheap, somewhere between $1-2 thousand (that's the reason I don't HAVE one (yet) and depending on your particular situation that salamander may be all you need; most of this post is just in case you weren't aware of how MUCH water they generate, and some of the problems that can create.
Another thing I do in my shop (may not apply to you) is keep 100 watt light bulbs (in clamp fixtures) under ALL metal surfaces in winter, plugged into a power strip that plugs into a cheap "speed control", turned down to just over half power - this is just enough heat to keep those surfaces ABOVE dew point so they don't condense any moisture from the air. Doesn't cost much to run and really helps.
Hopefully SOME of my blathering will be useful to you... Steve
I run a 375,000 btu propane salamander. "
I would definitely sheath the roof, then tar paper or similar, THEN the metal - this allows any condensation from the steel to run down the tar paper and off the roof. The sheathing also makes it much quieter inside the building, and gives a more gradual temperature gradation between outside and inside, lessening any condensation that would drip on the insulation.
My shop started out as a pole barn, bare metal roof - every time the weather changed, it would RAIN INSIDE - I had it re-roofed with 5/8 plywood sheathing and 3-tab shingles to match the house - it got a LOT quieter, and doesn't rain inside at all...
I have about HALF that size propane salamander, and I completely QUIT USING IT for anything but nasty, OUTSIDE repairs while laying on my back in mud in winter - because the combustion of propane produces almost exactly one gallon of WATER for each gallon of propane burned -
This means that you'd be warming up the air so it will hold MORE water (dew point) and then PROVIDING that water with your heater.
In my case, I had 3-4 coats of paste wax on all my cast iron tools (table saw, jointers, planers, one of the router tables, etc) and they STILL rusted...
Here's a little more, depending on how deep you wanna go
Google Answers: Combustion of natural gas
If you MUST use ANY gas for heat, I would look at a heater that includes a heat exchanger, and vents to the OUTSIDE - that'll make the single biggest difference in how much rust you have to deal with. Here's the type I'm talking about
Products - Unit Heaters - UDAP | Reznor
I know they aren't cheap, somewhere between $1-2 thousand (that's the reason I don't HAVE one (yet) and depending on your particular situation that salamander may be all you need; most of this post is just in case you weren't aware of how MUCH water they generate, and some of the problems that can create.
Another thing I do in my shop (may not apply to you) is keep 100 watt light bulbs (in clamp fixtures) under ALL metal surfaces in winter, plugged into a power strip that plugs into a cheap "speed control", turned down to just over half power - this is just enough heat to keep those surfaces ABOVE dew point so they don't condense any moisture from the air. Doesn't cost much to run and really helps.
Hopefully SOME of my blathering will be useful to you... Steve
bigtiller
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Good idea. I may do this with my 3x5 welding table but I have a question. Why use the "speed control" turned down to just over half power? Would a 50 watt bulb work as well?
BukitCase
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"Why use the "speed control" turned down to just over half power? Would a 50 watt bulb work as well? "
Possibly, but my experience has been that today's bulbs don't last long at all - I have another bulb in a dead freezer, I keep nicer woodwork stuff in it (and alignment tools/aftermarket accessories) mostly - I took one of those "outhouse" porcelain fixtures, mounted it in a box, removed the little "mushroom" drain cover and ran a cord out thru the hole - then I drilled a hole in the top of the freezer and put the "mushroom" up there, for just a tiny bit of circulation/venting -
Still to do: cut out all the original shelves and put something EFFICIENT in there...
When I had a 50 watt "normal duty" bulb in it, the bulb only lasted maybe a month or two. After the second time I opened it and found a dead bulb, I bought some 100 watt "rough service" bulbs for my "anti-condensate" usage and put one of the HF "drill speed control" boxes on the freezer, and another on the power strips for all the stationary (but mobile) tools; that was about 4 YEARS ago, and in that time I replaced ONE bulb because I knocked the clamp fixture loose.
YMMV, my response is "yeah, it'll work - but CHECK it often if it's in an out of sight place"... Steve
Oh, BTW - with "half power" (actually half VOLTAGE) that 100 watt bulb actually uses QUARTER power, and in January when it's 30 degrees outside and the (normally un-heated) shop might be 40, that freezer is usually around 75 degrees when I open the door, and BONE DRY...
Possibly, but my experience has been that today's bulbs don't last long at all - I have another bulb in a dead freezer, I keep nicer woodwork stuff in it (and alignment tools/aftermarket accessories) mostly - I took one of those "outhouse" porcelain fixtures, mounted it in a box, removed the little "mushroom" drain cover and ran a cord out thru the hole - then I drilled a hole in the top of the freezer and put the "mushroom" up there, for just a tiny bit of circulation/venting -
Still to do: cut out all the original shelves and put something EFFICIENT in there...
When I had a 50 watt "normal duty" bulb in it, the bulb only lasted maybe a month or two. After the second time I opened it and found a dead bulb, I bought some 100 watt "rough service" bulbs for my "anti-condensate" usage and put one of the HF "drill speed control" boxes on the freezer, and another on the power strips for all the stationary (but mobile
) tools; that was about 4 YEARS ago, and in that time I replaced ONE bulb because I knocked the clamp fixture loose. YMMV, my response is "yeah, it'll work - but CHECK it often if it's in an out of sight place"... Steve
Oh, BTW - with "half power" (actually half VOLTAGE) that 100 watt bulb actually uses QUARTER power, and in January when it's 30 degrees outside and the (normally un-heated) shop might be 40, that freezer is usually around 75 degrees when I open the door, and BONE DRY...
Sawyer Rob
Super Member
Around here, everyone who is serious about welding, has an old fridge with a light bulb in it, to keep welding rod fresh and tools rust free...
SR
SR
farmer2009
Elite Member
Seems around here everyone uses double bubble roll insulation inter a metal roof. It stops the dripping of a metal roof. Then if you want to insulate the ceiling you can or just leave it.
Might try these heaters for a loose shop. https://www.lbwhite.com/files/8715/1069/2021/LB_White_Poultry_Guardians_60-325_NEW_LAYOUT_web.pdf
Around here you can get the 250,000 btu for less then $600. I’ve got 24. Very reliable heaters.
Might try these heaters for a loose shop. https://www.lbwhite.com/files/8715/1069/2021/LB_White_Poultry_Guardians_60-325_NEW_LAYOUT_web.pdf
Around here you can get the 250,000 btu for less then $600. I’ve got 24. Very reliable heaters.
Sawyer Rob
Super Member
Shop Time:
A few days ago I was rotary cutting when I smelled something "off"... I kept going but it got worse, so I looked for where it was coming from, and found nothing.
After more cutting and smelling, I headed to the shop and lifted the hood, just in time to see smoke start rolling out of the batt.! I got the cables off, before the batt. exploded or started a fire (as I've seen before) and checked for damage, but found none.
Good thing that tractor had HEAVY batt. cables, cuz they were HOT!
Today I went out and bought a new 950CCA batt. and installed it,
and all is well again...
BTW, The old batt wasn't all that old, and when I took it back to Family Farm, they could NOT find that batt in their system, I mean they didn't even show that they even ever stocked it, even though their stickers were all over it!! SO, NO warr. from them!
I vote with my $$, so NO MORE Family Farm batt. for me!! AND that's where I have bought the last three or four! The place I bought the new batt. from, said it was the second FF batt. they replaced today!
SR
A few days ago I was rotary cutting when I smelled something "off"... I kept going but it got worse, so I looked for where it was coming from, and found nothing.
After more cutting and smelling, I headed to the shop and lifted the hood, just in time to see smoke start rolling out of the batt.! I got the cables off, before the batt. exploded or started a fire (as I've seen before) and checked for damage, but found none.
Good thing that tractor had HEAVY batt. cables, cuz they were HOT!
Today I went out and bought a new 950CCA batt. and installed it,
and all is well again...
BTW, The old batt wasn't all that old, and when I took it back to Family Farm, they could NOT find that batt in their system, I mean they didn't even show that they even ever stocked it, even though their stickers were all over it!! SO, NO warr. from them!
I vote with my $$, so NO MORE Family Farm batt. for me!! AND that's where I have bought the last three or four! The place I bought the new batt. from, said it was the second FF batt. they replaced today!
SR
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