Too much power on my new impact!

   / Too much power on my new impact! #41  
HomeBrew2 said:
Of course, you're right. This thread would be a great opportunity for you to demonstrate, or dictate the steps for, drilling out an ezout with a cobalt-steel drill [bit] ... or carbide, if you prefer ...

:confused: Did I say something wrong? :confused: I was just saying that the best drill bit to drill out hardened steel is either a cobalt or carbide bit. Having drilled out more ezout's in my career as a heavy truck mechanic than I even care remember I learned there are good HSS drill bits and better cobalt and carbide bits. When you depend on them for a living you get the best.
 
   / Too much power on my new impact! #42  
I have had good luck with using a punch or a chisle to remove stripped bolts, nuts and broken studs. Its all about the angle of attack. If I can get a good bite and hit it hard with the right angle you can walk the bolt right out. And if this bolt is the last one holding two pieces together can you turn the parts and loosen the bolt? I had one once that I had given up on chisled the head off and was ready to drill it out, when the head was gone I could unscrew the bolt with my fingers.
 
   / Too much power on my new impact!
  • Thread Starter
#43  
ground it down and "tapped" a 7/8s wrench on it. blades are mounted. thanks guys.
 
   / Too much power on my new impact! #44  
DieselPower said:
:confused: Did I say something wrong? :confused: ....

Not at all. Just figured you did all this for a living and wanted some real details. I'll buy anything to get a job done, if I hear/see details on how to do it better than what I know. I'll just stick w/ what I know for now ...
 
   / Too much power on my new impact! #45  
I also have a I/R impact wrench,my power settings are only for tightening,when in reverse,full power is used.(non adjustable)
 
   / Too much power on my new impact! #47  
this is how i do it and i do it for a living also, my drill bits are snap on cobalt/thunder bits, about 350.00 for the set. my ez outs are also snap on and i am usually dealing with a 3/8 16 exhaust manifold bolt on a 454 big block. the broken stud soaked the night before in gm heat riser penatrate, the best stuff i have ever used on rusted/ broken bolts
1st thing i do is clear the work area and get good light
2nd i center punch the bolt this is very important, you HAVE to get as close to center as possible
3rd i slowly drill a 1/8 pilot hole through the bolt all the way. i do this for 2 reasons first to penitrate the bolt and put penitrating lube begind the bolt and second my next size up drill bit will have a hole to follow or correct for drilling off center
3rd i move up to about half way to the size i need for the e-z out and drill again slowly.
4th apply more penitrate
5th drill to the size i need for the e-z out
6th my e-z outs are straight shafts that would look like a star if you had a cross section of one * they have a nut that slides over the shaft. i like these due to the fact they dont put incresingly more pressure on the bolt the farther you tap them in and you can get alot more shaft in the broken bolt that has contact than with your tipical e-z out. i buy them from snap on but the name on them says "rigid"
7th slide nut on e-z out and apply pressure to remove with wand tools.
8th remove stud and chase threads or drill to size and rethread.

thats how i do it, no torch ever for me seen to many gone bad from excessive heat.
 

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