newt92
Gold Member
Welcome to the 2520 club!!!! Another thought, instead of taking the loader off all the time, just drop the bucket off instead. Also, are you getting the $2500 discount deal?
Took the plunge, Finally!!!
- Thread starter Gobblin Tom
- Start date
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OP
Gobblin Tom
Gold Member
Thank you! And yes I am getting the $2500 off incentive!! I guess I could just drop the bucket and maybe that would protect the tractor if my wife is driving!! LOL I hope she don't read this!! Do any of you have a john deere or frontier rear blade?
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pdp11
Silver Member
I have a 2520 with a 200CX, 62D, independent lift, and a diverter valve. I know that you are already aware of some of what I'm about to say, but I'll say it all for completeness.
The independent lift uncouples the MMM lift from the 3PH and allows you to use the curl circuit of the SCV to hydraulically raise and lower the MMM. The independent lift has it's own mechanical height adjustment that limits the downward travel of the lift mechanism. See the attached photo that shows what this adjuster control looks like. In addition to controlling the mowing height, it also is used to lock the deck, or lift mechanism, in the fully up position.
Normally, when switching to use the FEL, you would lock the deck all the way up and then disconnect the hydraulic lines to the lift cylinder and connect the curl circuit for the FEL. The diverter valve allows you to have both the FEL and independent lift connected at all times, and then select between the bucket curl or the lift cylinder using a push/pull knob to switch the diverter valve from the operator seat.
Yes, the lift cylinder will leak down after you raise it hydraulically, but it's not really a problem. The hydraulically controlled part of the lift mechanism was intended to allow you to temporarily lift the deck to avoid obstacles, not as a method of adjusting the mowing height or parking the deck in the up position. The height adjuster of the independent lift allows for both mowing height control and the ability to lock the lift mechanism in the raised position, all from the tractor seat.
The independent lift uncouples the MMM lift from the 3PH and allows you to use the curl circuit of the SCV to hydraulically raise and lower the MMM. The independent lift has it's own mechanical height adjustment that limits the downward travel of the lift mechanism. See the attached photo that shows what this adjuster control looks like. In addition to controlling the mowing height, it also is used to lock the deck, or lift mechanism, in the fully up position.
Normally, when switching to use the FEL, you would lock the deck all the way up and then disconnect the hydraulic lines to the lift cylinder and connect the curl circuit for the FEL. The diverter valve allows you to have both the FEL and independent lift connected at all times, and then select between the bucket curl or the lift cylinder using a push/pull knob to switch the diverter valve from the operator seat.
Yes, the lift cylinder will leak down after you raise it hydraulically, but it's not really a problem. The hydraulically controlled part of the lift mechanism was intended to allow you to temporarily lift the deck to avoid obstacles, not as a method of adjusting the mowing height or parking the deck in the up position. The height adjuster of the independent lift allows for both mowing height control and the ability to lock the lift mechanism in the raised position, all from the tractor seat.
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ipwanab
Bronze Member
while everything is new you may consider a paste battery (optima). I really like my 2520 but the battery juice will leak if you go over rough stuff and corrode the front compartment. I had previously a 790 which did the same thing. If your cutting greens at the golf course like a lot of these guys it won't matter but property like mine will .
OP
Gobblin Tom
Gold Member
Do you know the demensions of the battery? I just took two MK deep (gel) cycles out of a wheelchair that are in good working order. One of them might work?? You are right though on my property it will be getting bounced around for sure! Thanks for the advice!!!
glc24
Platinum Member
Hey Tom,
Glad to see you are finally joining the Green Team!:thumbsup:
Greg
Glad to see you are finally joining the Green Team!:thumbsup:
Greg
OP
Gobblin Tom
Gold Member
Thanks Greg!!! I can't belive its finalliy happening...... You might have to come up and give me some pointers!!!! You got anything to add to my post? I know Robert at Vernon Dell probably got sick of hearing from me!
newt92
Gold Member
I have the Frontier RB1072. IMO, perfect size for the 2520.. Lot of times, when using it, I remove the tilt pin so the blade floats side to side. Doesnt gouge the ground as bad. Now this is usually when I push snow and dragging rocks back onto the drive from the yard due to someone moving the gravel driveway into the yard during snow removal. Im not gonna name any names here....
glc24
Platinum Member
I don't think so Tom,everyone has you covered.:thumbsup:
Only things I can think of,is make sure it has the new style lower 3pt arms.
I'm sure it will though.
IMO,I would have them add a block heater. Mine only added around 70.00.
Oh man what an unbelieveable difference in cold weather starting.
Funny you should say that. I called him every other day about something.
Do you know what they charged you for the tooth bar?
Greg
pdp11
Silver Member
Gobblin Tom said:
I have a Frontier RB2060. I actually like the 60" width because it more closely matches the width of the tractor and is easier to judge where the edges are. I mostly run it with the blade facing backward to grade my gravel driveway and the private road we live on.
