Toolbox and Lights for my JD4100

MikePA · Dec 17, 2001

Not **** at all, but then I'm **** too! /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

I ran a wire directly to the battery, put a connector on the end of the wire, took the nut off the battery clamp (the thing that goes over the battery post), slid the connector on the bolt, replaced the nut and tightened everything. Inline fuses come in a number of flavors. The kind that came with my lights were ones that accept a regular automotive fuse. It should be located near the battery. I'd get some pictures, but I am in Pittsburgh right now on business. Maybe I could call my wife and ask her....nah, bad idea. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

TonyC · Dec 17, 2001

Pardon my welding ignorance, but I know you can weld aluminum with a TIG unit -- can you do the same with MIG?

Okay, I'm still a novice in practice but I have memorized two great books on welding so I am hell bent on theory! TIG is by far the best method, but yes you can MIG weld aluminum as long as you use the correct wire and set-up. You can also ARC weld aluminum although it doesn't do the neatest job. Works better on heavier aluminum (I have done this) rather than thin stuff. You can also gas weld aluminum but it is best to replace the acetylene tank with hydrogen which lowers the temperature of the flame. Useful to know because TIG welders cost too much!!!!

Harv · Dec 17, 2001

Thanks, Tony! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Many (too many) years ago, I was the data processing manager for a company called Upright Scaffolds. Their product line was all aluminum and they had tons o' TIG welders of all shapes and sizes.

I never heard of MIG welders until I joined this board, so I know very little about them. I've seen a lot of gas and arc welders, of course, but I didn't realize you could weld aluminum with them. Something about oxygen and popping and splattering. Guess that's where the inert gas thing comes in handy. /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

Finances still dictate that I be a welding voyeur for the time being, but I appreciate any info I can pick up on the subject. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Bob_Trevithick · Dec 17, 2001

DFB,

...According to the operator's manual on your tractor for "Road" travel your switch should be position "C" with flashers/headlights/tailights activated, and aux work lights should come on in the "D" position. Correct?

Exactly correct. And this was installed by the John Deere dealer before I ever took possession of the machine. I'm a tad hesitant to start ripping into wiring.. what might that do to my warranty if I ever have lighting or power problems?

I'm leaning more toward asking the Deere dealer to figure out how it is supposed to be done, and to fix it for me. That may mean time without the machine, however. Sigh...

Thanks,
Bob

Bob Trevithick

DFB · Dec 17, 2001

So, when you turn to "C" the aux lights come on along with the headlights and tailights plus the flashers?

What happens in the "D" position./w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

DFB

Bob_Trevithick · Dec 17, 2001

DFB,

...So, when you turn to "C" the aux lights come on along with the headlights and tailights plus the flashers?

Correct.

What happens in the "D" position.

The way it works now is:

A) All lights are off.

B) Only the flashers are on.

C) Everything is on; headlights, tail lights, flashers, and rear work light.

D) Everything is on except the flashers.

I believe position "C" is the only one that doesn't work correctly. The road position...

Thanks,
Bob

Bob Trevithick

TerryinMD · Dec 17, 2001

Hey everyone,

Wow, I didn't expect this much traffic on my post. But that's cool, TBNers are a great bunch of people.

Took a picture of me on the tractor to show the relationship of the lights to my chubby little body /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif. Warning - the dull headlight at the top of my head needs no discussion!! /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif Let's leave well enough alone. Looks like there's a small possibility of sunburn/temporary blindness. Oh what the heck, another project to work out. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

As far as the lighting switch, position C turns everything on. That's what I was trying to say in a previous post. So, need to figure an alternative plan. Mike's sounds like a possible solution.

Mike - while your in Pittsburgh, ya got to hit some of the resturants. You may know of some of these: Primanti Bros down in the strip; Big Jims in lower Greenfield; Original Hot Dog shop in Oakland; Beto's Pizza in Dormont; Aiellos Pizza in Squirrel Hill. ohhh - I'm getting hungry. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Terry

DFB · Dec 17, 2001

What do you guys think? Should I get on Deere's case and get them to wire this thing as the manual says it's supposed to work?

I would. That's your call

One more question. Do the lights come on like they're supposed to without the key switch turned on.

DFB

Bob_Trevithick · Dec 17, 2001

...One more question. Dn the lights come on like they're supposed to without the key switch turned on.

Yep. The lights work the same with or without the ignition switch on.

I think I'll talk to Deere again. And explain that I don't want to be without the machine for long.

Thanks for all your help, DFB!

Bob Trevithick

DFB · Dec 17, 2001

Its worth the try. Ya also got JD's Customer Communication Center too. If ya don't get any satisfaction then do what ya gotta do. Add a switch yourself. I won't even begin to tell ya the different things I had to deal with on my tractor over the past year and half. For me Deere has been top notch in honoring their warranty.
Even though I've had to fine tune their work on occasion. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Good luck.

DFB