Toolbox and Lights for my JD4100

Bob_Trevithick · Dec 17, 2001

Hi Terry,

...I haven't had the chance to turn them on yet. Still working on the actual electrical connection.

Well, my first thought is to just run your wire into the standard flasher/tail light housing, and pick up the wire that runs the tail lights. Then your lights would be on whenever the headlights are.

But this raises another possible safety issue that I am encountering. In my new 4300 manual, it clearly says that when the light switch is in the road position, all lights should be on except the rear work lights, so you don't blind or confuse cars coming up behind you. But, when JD installed the rear work light prior to delivery, they did it in such a way that my road position has this rear light on. When I called them, they put on the mechanic who told me that there simply wasn't any way he could see to do it like the manual specifies. He had only two attachment points, and the option he chose seemed the best. The other way would have had the work light flashing along with the warning flashers! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

What do you guys think? Is this really a safety issue? I just point the light downward a bit so it won't blind people. Or should I get on Deere's case and get them to wire this thing as the manual says it's supposed to work?

Thanks, and sorry if I got us a bit off-topic.

Bob

Bob Trevithick

Bob_Trevithick · Dec 17, 2001

...I too think he'll need some shades when he turns those on. Maybe some blinders and sunscreen too.

Well, one possibility if that happens is to just spin them around and let them become the rear work lights.

BTW, I just noticed that midway through this thread I graduated from "Bronze" member to "Silver" member! When is the party? /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Bob

Bob Trevithick

CVHoss · Dec 17, 2001

Or should I get on Deere's case and get them to wire this thing as the manual says it's supposed to work?

Bob,
I'd just cut into the wire going to the rear work light and mount a switch. That way you could turn it off when you didn't want it.

Hoss

TerryinMD · Dec 17, 2001

Everyone and in between /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

In my original post, I asked if anyone had attached any extra lights on a 4100. Wanted to see how they did it?

Bob brought up a valid point about attaching to the connectors provided. I tested the connectors with a Fluke meter and got power only when the headlights are turned on.

The 4100 only has a 20 amp alternator. Should have gotten the 35 when I bought it (good ol' hindsight /w3tcompact/icons/mad.gif). There are 4 fuses and there all being used. I hate just blilndly cutting and tapping into a hot line without understanding what might be affected. I want to be able to use the extra lights and future rear light independent of the headlights, if possible. More research here....

John Miller, you don't happen to have a 4100 wiring diagram handy, do you??

I'm using the mounting holes on the brush guards. JD engineered them, so they got to be good. /w3tcompact/icons/tongue.gif/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif As far as getting sunburned or blinded, I'll sit on the ol' 4100 tonight and get a picture (as long as it's not raining!!). Picture is worth a thousand words.....

Terry

MikePA · Dec 17, 2001

Would a relay be advised to handle the 8.3 amps?

TerryinMD · Dec 17, 2001

Mike,

Would a relay be advised to handle the 8.3 amps? (appropriate choice of color /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif)

Talk to me!!! I understand the term relay, but what would it do for me?

Terry

TerryinMD · Dec 17, 2001

Mike,

Would a relay be advised to handle the 8.3 amps? - appropriate color /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Talk to me!! I basically understand what a relay is, but what would it do for me? How much work? I'll have 3 50 watt lights total when I'm done. Two forward trapozodial, one flood for the rear.

Terry

Terry

MikePA · Dec 17, 2001

A = W / V
A = 150 / 12
A = 12.5 amps assuming they're all on at the same time.

A relay, as I learned right here on TBN, reduces the current the switch that turns the lights on and off has to handle. It's not a big deal to insert a relay, power comes in one side and goes out the other plus a ground.

Both sets of lights I purchased (2 floods to the rear and 2 driving lights to the front) came with relays. For the 2 floods, I used the existing work light connection which also powers my flashers. For the driving lights, I ran a wire directly to the battery since I did not want to overload an existing circuit.

Another item each set of lights had was an inline fuse.

TerryinMD · Dec 17, 2001

Sorry for the double post - couldn't figure out what happened on that???? /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif Checked and the first didn't appear. I probably fat fingered something. /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif/w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif

Mike,

Good info. I do not believe that the lights I purchased have built-in relays. When you say you tapped directly into the battery, is is directly off of the main battery cable? Sorry to be so dense and ****, but I want to make sure that I do the right thing.

And as far as an inline fuse, what type of fuse did you use?

Terry

DFB · Dec 17, 2001

Bob, I agree if that's the only way they operate then you might want to consider splicing in an on/off switch for your after dark highway adventures. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

On a 4100 if accessory lights are connected to the prewired plugs in the wiring harness located along the crossbar brace for the ROP's, they will be activated along with headlights/tailight when the switch is turned to position "C" and are off when the switch is moved to position "D". Flashers/Headlight/Tailight.

A - All Lights OFF

B - Warning Flasher Lights ON

C - Headlights and Taillights ON

D - Headlights, Taillights and Warning Flasher Lights ON

According to the operator's manual on your tractor for "Road" travel your switch should be position "C" with flashers/headlights/tailights activated, and aux work lights should come on in the "D" position. Correct?

A - All lights off.

B - Warning flasher lights on.

C - Road Position: headlights, taillights, and warning flasher lights on.

D - Field Position: headlights, taillights, and optional working lights on.

Definitely wouldn't want to have those rear facing lights confusing drivers coming up behind you while your out cruisin' the strip./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

DFB

MikePA · Dec 17, 2001

Not **** at all, but then I'm **** too! /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

I ran a wire directly to the battery, put a connector on the end of the wire, took the nut off the battery clamp (the thing that goes over the battery post), slid the connector on the bolt, replaced the nut and tightened everything. Inline fuses come in a number of flavors. The kind that came with my lights were ones that accept a regular automotive fuse. It should be located near the battery. I'd get some pictures, but I am in Pittsburgh right now on business. Maybe I could call my wife and ask her....nah, bad idea. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

TonyC · Dec 17, 2001

Pardon my welding ignorance, but I know you can weld aluminum with a TIG unit -- can you do the same with MIG?

Okay, I'm still a novice in practice but I have memorized two great books on welding so I am hell bent on theory! TIG is by far the best method, but yes you can MIG weld aluminum as long as you use the correct wire and set-up. You can also ARC weld aluminum although it doesn't do the neatest job. Works better on heavier aluminum (I have done this) rather than thin stuff. You can also gas weld aluminum but it is best to replace the acetylene tank with hydrogen which lowers the temperature of the flame. Useful to know because TIG welders cost too much!!!!

Harv · Dec 17, 2001

Thanks, Tony! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Many (too many) years ago, I was the data processing manager for a company called Upright Scaffolds. Their product line was all aluminum and they had tons o' TIG welders of all shapes and sizes.

I never heard of MIG welders until I joined this board, so I know very little about them. I've seen a lot of gas and arc welders, of course, but I didn't realize you could weld aluminum with them. Something about oxygen and popping and splattering. Guess that's where the inert gas thing comes in handy. /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

Finances still dictate that I be a welding voyeur for the time being, but I appreciate any info I can pick up on the subject. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Bob_Trevithick · Dec 17, 2001

DFB,

...According to the operator's manual on your tractor for "Road" travel your switch should be position "C" with flashers/headlights/tailights activated, and aux work lights should come on in the "D" position. Correct?

Exactly correct. And this was installed by the John Deere dealer before I ever took possession of the machine. I'm a tad hesitant to start ripping into wiring.. what might that do to my warranty if I ever have lighting or power problems?

I'm leaning more toward asking the Deere dealer to figure out how it is supposed to be done, and to fix it for me. That may mean time without the machine, however. Sigh...

Thanks,
Bob

Bob Trevithick

DFB · Dec 17, 2001

So, when you turn to "C" the aux lights come on along with the headlights and tailights plus the flashers?

What happens in the "D" position./w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

DFB

Bob_Trevithick · Dec 17, 2001

DFB,

...So, when you turn to "C" the aux lights come on along with the headlights and tailights plus the flashers?

Correct.

What happens in the "D" position.

The way it works now is:

A) All lights are off.

B) Only the flashers are on.

C) Everything is on; headlights, tail lights, flashers, and rear work light.

D) Everything is on except the flashers.

I believe position "C" is the only one that doesn't work correctly. The road position...

Thanks,
Bob

Bob Trevithick

TerryinMD · Dec 17, 2001

Hey everyone,

Wow, I didn't expect this much traffic on my post. But that's cool, TBNers are a great bunch of people.

Took a picture of me on the tractor to show the relationship of the lights to my chubby little body /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif. Warning - the dull headlight at the top of my head needs no discussion!! /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif Let's leave well enough alone. Looks like there's a small possibility of sunburn/temporary blindness. Oh what the heck, another project to work out. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

As far as the lighting switch, position C turns everything on. That's what I was trying to say in a previous post. So, need to figure an alternative plan. Mike's sounds like a possible solution.

Mike - while your in Pittsburgh, ya got to hit some of the resturants. You may know of some of these: Primanti Bros down in the strip; Big Jims in lower Greenfield; Original Hot Dog shop in Oakland; Beto's Pizza in Dormont; Aiellos Pizza in Squirrel Hill. ohhh - I'm getting hungry. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Terry

DFB · Dec 17, 2001

What do you guys think? Should I get on Deere's case and get them to wire this thing as the manual says it's supposed to work?

I would. That's your call

One more question. Do the lights come on like they're supposed to without the key switch turned on.

DFB

Bob_Trevithick · Dec 17, 2001

...One more question. Dn the lights come on like they're supposed to without the key switch turned on.

Yep. The lights work the same with or without the ignition switch on.

I think I'll talk to Deere again. And explain that I don't want to be without the machine for long.

Thanks for all your help, DFB!

Bob Trevithick

DFB · Dec 17, 2001

Its worth the try. Ya also got JD's Customer Communication Center too. If ya don't get any satisfaction then do what ya gotta do. Add a switch yourself. I won't even begin to tell ya the different things I had to deal with on my tractor over the past year and half. For me Deere has been top notch in honoring their warranty.
Even though I've had to fine tune their work on occasion. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Good luck.

DFB