Tools that used to be great

   / Tools that used to be great #51  
How many of you have met people missing a finger tip by way of radial arm saw?
 
   / Tools that used to be great #52  
How many of you have met people missing a finger tip by way of radial arm saw?
My dad had all his digits when he departed and I grew up using it. But your question is valid. Not the safest tool by a long shot. Just like fingers... there is no replacement for respect and training. I miss my dad.
 
   / Tools that used to be great #53  
Why do you think they call them [wood butchers] . Hard pressed to find an old butcher with all his fingers too. When I see a hack on the job I always say [Where is your white apron with the blood stains] ?:D:drink:
 
   / Tools that used to be great #54  
My last DeWalt cordless drill, had on the side, Made in PRC. Its OK but when I wanted some extra batteries I didn`t go to DeWalt, I bought Chinese, there from the same country. For heavy drilling, I still use my old 240v Stanley/Bridges 4 speed I used when I worked in the agriculture engineering factory back in the 70s. You have to be carful because if the drill bit sticks, the motor still keeps turning enough to wrench your wrist. Strange but around the factory was a small singly speed B&D 240v Industrial hand drill, that was used by almost anyone, and that old thing never stopped even though some of the guys were very cruel with it. Good quality tools are still out there, but many of the old names, seem to be loosing ground, and some Chinese Firms seem to be learning fast.
 
   / Tools that used to be great #55  
Back to the original post. If you were ripping a 2 x 4 it could have been the wood not the saw. It may have had internal tension and was closing up behind the cut and pinched the blade. I ripped a piece of wood on my Delta Unisaw with a 3 HP motor and the wood closed up so tight it stalled the saw. It is probably more likely that your saw just lacked power, but the wood itself could have played a factor.

Doug in SW IA
 
   / Tools that used to be great #56  
How many of you have met people missing a finger tip by way of radial arm saw?

Still have all my fingers but my old radial was the one tool that came close.

I got rid of it shortly after it shot a 2 x 4 that I was ripping clear across the room.
That was following the saw driving a shorter length into my stomach.

However the radial arm was handy for angle cuts but was soon replaced by current generation compound miter saws.
 
   / Tools that used to be great #57  
Tape measures are my current irritation. Where did all the 10-12 footers go? I don't need a Fat Max 30 foot tape for puttering around in the shop. Ever try keeping your sweatpants up with an almost 1 pound tape measure hanging on them?
 
   / Tools that used to be great
  • Thread Starter
#58  
A house outlet that’s wired with 14 gauge doesn’t do a saw any favors either. On more than one occasion on a job I’ve had to run a cord through a kitchen window and plug into a kitchen outlet that’s 12 gauge for my saws because the 14 gauge outside outlet won’t do the job. I’ve got a few 10 gauge extension cords and most of mine are 12 gauge. I try to get by with a 25 foot cord if I can. A 14 gauge or less cord doesn’t have any business running air compressors or saws.
This is key. Shouldn't be plugging a 14ga into a 20amp that's for 12ga wire. My house has 15amp outdoors... yet one 20amp in our entry way. But that's 50 feet from the back yard.
 
   / Tools that used to be great #59  
This is key. Shouldn't be plugging a 14ga into a 20amp that's for 12ga wire. My house has 15amp outdoors... yet one 20amp in our entry way. But that's 50 feet from the back yard.

Absolutely correct. Same problem with my Hobart Handler 140, 120volt wire feed welder. The gauge of the wire and length of run make a huge difference in weld quality and welder performance. The shortest 10 gauge extension cords possible and as close to the electrical panel too.
 
   / Tools that used to be great
  • Thread Starter
#60  
Back to the original post. If you were ripping a 2 x 4 it could have been the wood not the saw. It may have had internal tension and was closing up behind the cut and pinched the blade. I ripped a piece of wood on my Delta Unisaw with a 3 HP motor and the wood closed up so tight it stalled the saw. It is probably more likely that your saw just lacked power, but the wood itself could have played a factor.

Doug in SW IA
Nah it's gutless on everything I cut.

On the topic of safety I was just looking into a stopsaw. Would be nice to find a radial arm stopsaw.

My only brush with an accident was getting a glove wrapped up in a drill press. Fortunately it was a cheap delta and the motor stopped. Still have the scar to remind me.
 

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