Tooth Bar Teeth

[lzicc]

I called Iowa Farm to get a price on a tooth bar for my L3800. The inside measurement of my fel is 57 3/4". I asked how many teeth would be on the tooth bar and they said 6. The tooth bar from my BX22 had 6 and it was about a foot smaller. Does that sound right? This would space the teeth at about 1 foot apart. Just wanted to check before I order it. They had the best price, $325 shipped. Gator was a little more expensive, but if they have 7 teeth on theirs, it would be worth it.

 

[Usta]

My 48 inch bar has 6 teeth. Maybe 6 is a standard. I have seen a few manufacturers who offer special orders with as many teeth as you want.

 

[bullbreaker]

I called Iowa Farm to get a price on a tooth bar for my L3800. The inside measurement of my fel is 57 3/4". I asked how many teeth would be on the tooth bar and they said 6. The tooth bar from my BX22 had 6 and it was about a foot smaller. Does that sound right? .

Sounds right to me,my 64 1/2 incher from inside has 7,but then again do they make different size(width) teeth ?

Boone

 

[adjusterr]

You might want to check Ratchet Rake. I just bought one for my Kubota L2250. Before the snow and ice arrived, I tried it for moving brush, small bushes, clearing ground then later for scratching ice off the driveway, it worked great. Check out the website. Good luck.

 

[lzicc]

It looks like 6 teeth would be about right then. The cost between Iowa Fams and Gator are close to the same. Are they both pretty good places to deal with? Both places sell a good tooth bar?

bullbreaker, where did you purchase yours from? It looks like a solid tooth bar.

 

[bullbreaker]

bullbreaker, where did you purchase yours from? It looks like a solid tooth bar.

I purchased mine bout 3 years ago from Markham.I believe I paid around $330- $350 including UPS delievery. Believe company sold out and now called something else. :confused2:

Boone

 

[bullbreaker]

You might want to check Ratchet Rake. I just bought one for my Kubota L2250. Before the snow and ice arrived, I tried it for moving brush, small bushes, clearing ground then later for scratching ice off the driveway, it worked great. Check out the website. Good luck.

Probably been mentioned before.
Haven't seen-en at TSC down but went on RR site and saw where TSC is going to stock all 3 sizes(after April).Ratchet Rake, LLC - Tractor attachment, Bucket attachment, Loader, Skid loader, Kubota, Skid steer, Landscape rake, Brush remover, York Rake, Harley Rake, Rock Rake, Tractor rake attachment, Construction attachment, New Holland, Bobcat, Fire safety,

Boone

 

[StanR]

I made my own. The picture is the ones I made for a tractor I just sold.

I have to make some for my new MX 5100 4x4 buying the parts tommorrow

It was fun to make

 

[kubotaman83837]

I have a BX24. Can someone please tell me why I need or should want a tooth bar?

Sorry to hijack the thread for a moment. I am just confused so I am just asking.

 

[Tachdriver]

Better digging, breaks up the ground a LOT better.




later

 

[kubotaman83837]

Thank you kindly

Now back to our regularly scheduled thread ;-)

 

[texasjohn]

IMHO, increases bucket capacity by about 30%, makes digging at least twice as effective, puts points out there so you can see where edge of the bucket is more easily, gives you something to attach chains to, strengthens edge so it does not develop a "smile", gives it a FEARSOME look

 

[kubotaman83837]

OK...........I get the potential better digging and a place to hang a chain from. I also agree with the fearsome look. Now here is what I don't get 30% more capacity. Please explain that part for me

 

[crash325]

I called Iowa Farm to get a price on a tooth bar for my L3800. The inside measurement of my fel is 57 3/4". I asked how many teeth would be on the tooth bar and they said 6. The tooth bar from my BX22 had 6 and it was about a foot smaller. Does that sound right? This would space the teeth at about 1 foot apart. Just wanted to check before I order it. They had the best price, $325 shipped. Gator was a little more expensive, but if they have 7 teeth on theirs, it would be worth it.

Why buy this item for over $300 when it can be built from about $40 worth of scrap iron?? 2 To 4 hours of cutting & welding will save you around $300. That is several days Beer Supply.

 

[lzicc]

I was originally going to build one, but the cheapest I could find teeth was on Ebay was $205 shipped for 7 teeth, then I need a cutting edge bar to weld them to. Not sure where I could get one of those. By the time I pay for that, I might as well just buy one that is ready to go.

Why buy this item for over $300 when it can be built from about $40 worth of scrap iron?? 2 To 4 hours of cutting & welding will save you around $300. That is several days Beer Supply.

 

[texasjohn]

Kubotaman, For the material I dig...stuff that has some clay mixed in with some loose stuff...an edge with no teeth doesn't go as far or as well into the pile as one with teeth.

also, the stuff kinda hangs on all the way out to the edge of the teeth, doesn't fall thru the teeth (dry sand would do this)..thus, extra capacity in the load.

My objective is to get a heaping bucket load, each trip with only one dig into the pile. For what I dig, to get a heaping load without the toothbar, I often have to dig into it, back up and dig into it again. This takes extra time. With the toothbar, 95% of the time I make one scoop and it comes out heaping and the excess falls off on all sides.

So, net net, with a toothbar it takes fewer digs into the pile to get a heaping full bucket, the scoop of material has a wider bottom because it hangs onto the toothbar lip and sometimes over the lip and this results in a wider overall scoop base and a taller stack. My estimate, unscientific I agree, is that I am 30% more efficient in loading my dump trailer with the toothbar than without. I have not done a timed study but I know that on the occasions where the toothbar had been removed and I worked on loading the dump trailer without it...it was painful and I REALLY, REALLY missed the toothbar.

There have also been numerous times when the toothbar provides just the extra needed to hold a load... like the garbage cans I carry from the shop to the pickup point.

Oh, yes, I've used the toothbar on numerous occasions as a secure lip to place under a trailer frame and lift it so I can change a tire. The regular lip just doesn't do the job nearly as well, or at all depending on the frame.

Unless you have personal experience with a toothbar, you've kinda just gotta trust me that it is a superb addition and extremely useful. It gets in my way only when trying to get an extremely smooth surface on something. For this, I unbolt the toothbar, turn the blade slightly down and back up.

 

[Country1]

Kubotaman, For the material I dig...stuff that has some clay mixed in with some loose stuff...an edge with no teeth doesn't go as far or as well into the pile as one with teeth.

also, the stuff kinda hangs on all the way out to the edge of the teeth, doesn't fall thru the teeth (dry sand would do this)..thus, extra capacity in the load.

My objective is to get a heaping bucket load, each trip with only one dig into the pile. For what I dig, to get a heaping load without the toothbar, I often have to dig into it, back up and dig into it again. This takes extra time. With the toothbar, 95% of the time I make one scoop and it comes out heaping and the excess falls off on all sides.

So, net net, with a toothbar it takes fewer digs into the pile to get a heaping full bucket, the scoop of material has a wider bottom because it hangs onto the toothbar lip and sometimes over the lip and this results in a wider overall scoop base and a taller stack. My estimate, unscientific I agree, is that I am 30% more efficient in loading my dump trailer with the toothbar than without. I have not done a timed study but I know that on the occasions where the toothbar had been removed and I worked on loading the dump trailer without it...it was painful and I REALLY, REALLY missed the toothbar.

There have also been numerous times when the toothbar provides just the extra needed to hold a load... like the garbage cans I carry from the shop to the pickup point.

Oh, yes, I've used the toothbar on numerous occasions as a secure lip to place under a trailer frame and lift it so I can change a tire. The regular lip just doesn't do the job nearly as well, or at all depending on the frame.

Unless you have personal experience with a toothbar, you've kinda just gotta trust me that it is a superb addition and extremely useful. It gets in my way only when trying to get an extremely smooth surface on something. For this, I unbolt the toothbar, turn the blade slightly down and back up.

Excellent post!
I agree 100%.:thumbsup:

 

[kubotaman83837]

Kubotaman, For the material I dig...stuff that has some clay mixed in with some loose stuff...an edge with no teeth doesn't go as far or as well into the pile as one with teeth.

also, the stuff kinda hangs on all the way out to the edge of the teeth, doesn't fall thru the teeth (dry sand would do this)..thus, extra capacity in the load.

My objective is to get a heaping bucket load, each trip with only one dig into the pile. For what I dig, to get a heaping load without the toothbar, I often have to dig into it, back up and dig into it again. This takes extra time. With the toothbar, 95% of the time I make one scoop and it comes out heaping and the excess falls off on all sides.

So, net net, with a toothbar it takes fewer digs into the pile to get a heaping full bucket, the scoop of material has a wider bottom because it hangs onto the toothbar lip and sometimes over the lip and this results in a wider overall scoop base and a taller stack. My estimate, unscientific I agree, is that I am 30% more efficient in loading my dump trailer with the toothbar than without. I have not done a timed study but I know that on the occasions where the toothbar had been removed and I worked on loading the dump trailer without it...it was painful and I REALLY, REALLY missed the toothbar.

There have also been numerous times when the toothbar provides just the extra needed to hold a load... like the garbage cans I carry from the shop to the pickup point.

Oh, yes, I've used the toothbar on numerous occasions as a secure lip to place under a trailer frame and lift it so I can change a tire. The regular lip just doesn't do the job nearly as well, or at all depending on the frame.

Unless you have personal experience with a toothbar, you've kinda just gotta trust me that it is a superb addition and extremely useful. It gets in my way only when trying to get an extremely smooth surface on something. For this, I unbolt the toothbar, turn the blade slightly down and back up.

Oh great now I got to convince the Financial Advisor aka Wifey-Poo on Valentines Day that I need to spend $200-$300 on me

Thank you for your insight.

 

[lzicc]

I've been doing allot of reading on tooth bars and one post mentioned the WR Long flat tooth bar. It sounds like it may be the better way to go since the teeth are flush with the cutting edge so you can back drag smooth. Not sure of the pro's and con's to this though. Any thoughts? Do the tooth bars where the teeth sit below the cutting edge dig better?

 

[texasjohn]

Me, when I back drag and want things to be smooth, I tilt the front lip (having removed the tooth bar) down slightly and drag backwards. This builds up a small amount of material which fills in the dips and smooths the peaks. Seems to me that even with a flat tooth bar any such down tilt would still press the forward protruding teeth below the smooth surface, leaving a tooth bar track.

For me, best deal is to just remove/unbolt the toothbar and then you are back to a smooth front lip.