Toothbar Tutorial (my Version)

   / Toothbar Tutorial (my Version)
  • Thread Starter
#21  
I was told by the dealer, but havn't tried it, if the slot went to the rear, you could loosen the bolts and slide to toothbar forward and swing it up into the bucket. I suposse one may find a reason to dothis, but I haven't.
 
   / Toothbar Tutorial (my Version) #22  
Yea I see how that makes sense. Rather than take it off flip it up out of the way. Oh well If have it loose I guess taking it off would not be a big issue. Thanks for the info. And your install looks great.!

I have never used a bucket without out one for any real FEL work but I could not imagine the FEL would work nearly as well. Have fun tearing the dirt up with it /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
   / Toothbar Tutorial (my Version) #23  
Inspector, Do you have a ph # or email address for WRLong,thats a real nice bar-wonder what they get for the 72" version. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
   / Toothbar Tutorial (my Version)
  • Thread Starter
#24  
Don't have a number handy, but I think they only sell through dealers. Several dealers on here will order you one and have it shipped right to your door. Did a Google search and the first hit was Carver Equipment that is a member here.

I ordered mine through a member here.... kiohio
Great guy /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Toothbar Tutorial (my Version) #25  
Grainger12002, don't want to take anything away from the WRLong tooth bar, they look just like mine - FFC tooth bar. If you are like me, I love to compare, so here is a site for FFC for comparison. http://www.sweepster.com/buckets/toothbars.htm
TXDon
 
   / Toothbar Tutorial (my Version) #26  
did u use any cutting oil when drilling? i installed my tooth bar in 30 min. drilled 1/4 pilot hole then moved up to 3/4 bit, using cutting oil all the time. u can buy a 3/4 bit with a turned down shank to fit a 3/8 chuck, but that is pretty big for a 3/8 drill. as long as u don't make a habit of it ,it shoud do alright.
 
   / Toothbar Tutorial (my Version) #27  
I bought a 3/4" holesaw. About $10 and worked great for me. Cuts pretty fast too.
 
   / Toothbar Tutorial (my Version) #28  
Grainger,

My toothbar was purchased from Carver, but made by Long. It's 71" and I paid $350 including shipping.
 
   / Toothbar Tutorial (my Version) #29  
$270 for a 54" Long shipped to me
 
   / Toothbar Tutorial (my Version) #30  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( you could loosen the bolts and slide to toothbar forward and swing it up into the bucket. I suposse one may find a reason to dothis, but I haven't )</font>

I have done this for two reasons:

1: To get it out of the way when I wanted to bolt my rubber horse stall mat edge for snow removal
2: After aggressive earth removal with the toothbar, I often will loosen and flip it for smoothing.

The bad part: sometimes when backdragging with the toothbar in position, it will catch on something and pull the teeth notches off the cutting edge. Since it only happens on a couple teeth at one end or the other, the connecting bar distorts and gets stuff under it. Then, to get it back on, I have to take the entire thing off, clean the edge and notches, and bolt it back on - a real pain.

So....if you don't have a reason to flip it, I'd recommend bolting to the back of the slot. If you plan to flip it and don't plan to backdrag with the toothbar, bolting to the front of the slots will work just fine.

Mark
 

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