Toothed bucket vs bolt on tooth bar?

   / Toothed bucket vs bolt on tooth bar? #11  
I have no need to remove my Piranha bar (yet) should I need to remove it 2 bolts, not a show stopper.

I would defiantly buy one again, if I should buy a new tractor.
 
   / Toothed bucket vs bolt on tooth bar? #12  
I have a Piranha tooth edge. It makes it easier to dig. The bottom is flat for back dragging. Don't know why you'd need to remove it for making a smooth surface.
Yeah, I agree. That is an argument that some have against it.
 
   / Toothed bucket vs bolt on tooth bar? #13  
I have the Piranha bar two bolts to remove it but never needed to
remove it as I use it quite abit. For me I can handle the Piranha
to put it on only takes a few minutes to remove or install

willy
 
   / Toothed bucket vs bolt on tooth bar? #14  
Another piranha tooth bar user. Works great, easy install. Just watch out if you leave the bucket up, very sharp.


IMG_0930.jpeg

 
   / Toothed bucket vs bolt on tooth bar? #15  
Since both of my tractors have SSQA loaders, I'm thinking of buying 5 or 7 weld on tooth assemblies, and welding them on the smaller bucket for digging in the rocky soil at my place and keeping the wider bucket for screened material without large rocks.

And I would recommend something similar for anyone with a SSQA loader setup. Seems like a much sturdier setup in my mind. I recognize that for most folks it will be more money to get a second toothed bucket. But, in my case converting one of my buckets to a toothed bucket makes the most sense.

I'm also looking at adding a rear cutting edge to the bucket, so I can back drag with the curl cylinders fully retracted, to lower the chance of bending them when back dragging.
 
   / Toothed bucket vs bolt on tooth bar? #16  
I'd buy the Piranha and I'll sell you my tooth bar. It's still hanging on my wall. I removed it after trying it for a week.
 
   / Toothed bucket vs bolt on tooth bar? #17  
I use the smooth edge to get mud off concrete surfaces… 1/4 mile dirt road leading to our house… during the wet months we track quite a bit of mud onto the concrete
View attachment 3116693
I used one of these for several years… then bought the tractor… a couple springs back I had just finished dressing the drive with the BB and was getting ready to scrape the mud when the 💡 finally appeared over my head…
My concern would be that using any metal edge on concrete will eventually damage the top surface of the concrete? The guys who plow snow apparently use some kind of plastic on their snow plow edges.
 
   / Toothed bucket vs bolt on tooth bar?
  • Thread Starter
#18  
My concern would be that using any metal edge on concrete will eventually damage the top surface of the concrete? The guys who plow snow apparently use some kind of plastic on their snow plow edges.
I hadn’t thought of that… thanks…
 
   / Toothed bucket vs bolt on tooth bar? #19  
I had a bucket with bolt on teeth that u used on my skidsteer. Primarily for grading my road. The teeth bolted right to the bucket edge and you could not use a cuttings at the same time. So over time, the teeth.. and the bucket edge wore down .. so now it's got a cutting edge only on it. If I were to do it over again.. I'd get a tooth bar attachment that goes over a cutting edge .
 
   / Toothed bucket vs bolt on tooth bar? #20  
My concern would be that using any metal edge on concrete will eventually damage the top surface of the concrete? The guys who plow snow apparently use some kind of plastic on their snow plow edges.
UHMW Polyethylene cutting edges. Available on Amazon and Ebay.

You could look locally for commercial plastic supplier and see if they have offcuts. Also, they use it for toilet stall partitions, and they folks who do them occasionally have offcuts.
I'd buy the Piranha, and I'll sell you my tooth bar. It's still hanging on my wall. I removed it after trying it for a week.
Just depends on your use and the soils. I'm trying to get cobbles and rocks out of the top foot or so of dirt. To allow tilling for a garden. The Pirahna probably works well grubbing roots and vegetation in non-rocky soils. But not so well for digging in and wiggling rocks until they break free of the dirt they are in. Most of the dedicated loaders in the area have toothed buckets. The more successful local contractors who buy or lease new, all have toothed buckets.

I have a dedicated 48-inch rock bucket, with a 2-inch gap between the slats. It is heavy duty enough to survive in our soils. But, is too close to the lift capacity of the FEL on my tractors. And, I have to rent a skid steer to use it. And, the smaller skid steers have trouble with it in our local soils. So, a dedicated toothed bucket makes sense for my soils.

My place and most of the valley are prehistoric gravel bars which were at the bottom of mountain slopes. Or alluvial fans, from the mountains. So, the soil is rounded river rocks, and jagged talus rocks, in a finer soil matrix. Very hard to dig with a bucket, and a nightmare to dig trenches in. The OSHA trench safety inspector requires trench boxes or 1.25:1 side slopes full depth of the trench. If you need a five foot bury depth to get a water or sewer line below the freeze depth, You are looking at a trench 12-feet wide, because the rocks keep caving in.
 
 

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