Top and TIlt, additional stress on 3pt attach pts?

[Paul_Dowling]

My opinion is that the hydraulic cylinders will have a small shock absorbing effect and thus decrease the shock load on your 3pt lift points.

 

[goneandbrokeit]

Thanks for all the replies. As to the bolts stretching I am optimistic in this installation it may not be a problem. My neighbor did use loctite not sure if the type you mentioned.The "strap" is attached to the pin, so that any pull on the pin is trasmitted thru the steel to the bolt ( so long as you remember to put it in!). This bolt not being atttached caused the failure, so I am guessing the Kub engineers have seen this failure before and designed this strap on the pin for this purpose.
I gonna work it and see if it holds, will see.

 

[bikemiser]

I'm not only amazed by the repair but also by the drawing of the repair

 

[CT_Tree_Guy]

Gone:

Welcome to TBN. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I agree with the others that you have one heck of a neighbor there. Please let me know if the property on the other side of him ever comes up for sale!

Nice drawing, and nice repair. I'm not a mechanical engineer or metallurgist, but I did get a great night's sleep last night, and I have a feeling that repair is going to last. In fact, it might even be stronger than the original, when you consider the total surface area that those bolts are grabbing onto. The setup you've got now reminds me of how a u-joint gets secured into a yoke, with caps and bolts. Granted, the force vectors are much different, with yours being basically longitudinal; but it's going to take quite a bit of force to pull those bolts straight out of those tapped threads.

I'd just make sure the threads are as deep as you can make them. Maybe try to find out how much meat you have to work with before/if you were to deepen the holes, so you don't drill right into the gearcase; but even if that were to happen, seems to me you could still seal the oil in just fine. (The resultant metal chips in the gearcase would be far from ideal, but probably wouldn't end up doing any damage, and would probably come out with the next oil change). Plus, this might be moot anyway - you might have plenty of room.

Oh, one more thing - you might want to considering vee-ing out the fracture lines and arc welding them with Ni-rod, just to help take some of the load off the bolts . It's pretty amazing stuff, and although cast iron is notoriously tough to weld, I have had great success with Ni (nickel alloy)-rod. Pre-heating is always good for penetration, but you don't have to be too particular about the cooling process, in my experience. If you can pack sand around the fresh weld somehow to slow down the cooling, so much the better, but it's pretty forgiving stuff. I'd give it a go though, that repair can use all the strength it can get. If those threads did strip out, things would start to get a little more complicated and "dicey". (Heli-coils, bigger bolts .... I'd hate to see you have to go there - and let's not even think about replacing that piece with a new one). /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Good luck, John

 

[wushaw]

I agree with TREE GUY about welding to help in reinforcing the lug. You have to remember that lug takes all the pulling force from a pulled implement like a BB.

 

[goneandbrokeit]

John,
Not a welder, would like to learn but from what I heard cast iron wouldn't be a good place for me to start. I will try and find someone who has worked with cast iron before and see what they say.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( and let's not even think about replacing that piece with a new one)</font>
When I first showed my neighbor the break he asked me what I was going to do. I said I guess take it to the dealer...he just shook his head and said "piss on that!"

 

[daTeacha]

If that doesn't hold, what about taking something like the quick hitch advertised on here and seeing if your talented and generous neighbor can replace the regular arm ends with a pair of those? I think what you have there should hold unless you start dragging a 2 or 3 bottom plow through heavy soil, but it's hard to tell.

 

[texbaylea]

Just a point in clarification. That lug only takes 1/4 of the load in a straight on pull.

Vernon

 

[goneandbrokeit]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Just a point in clarification. That lug only takes 1/4 of the load in a straight on pull.

Vernon
)</font>
Hi Vernon, I see you have an L3130, does this also have the steel "strap" welded to the pin and get bolted to the casting ( the meat part of the casting away from the break). It is my hope ( not an ME) that the 1/4 of the load is being trasmitted at least 50% via the steel strap and the "lug"/"ear" is lining the pin up, but not designed to hold the whole load anyway.
If this is true than I would say more along the line of 1/8.

 

[texbaylea]

I agree that the load is something less than 1/4 but not knowing the strength of the metal in that strap and the size and strength of the bolt, I did not figure it in.

Vernon