Top Link replacement

[snpower]

The top link on my 2360 is frozen; after working on it here and there since last fall I am giving up. The dealer wants $58.00 for a replacement. Can I get a suitable replacement from TSC or is there an upgrade I should consider? I can't swing the hydraulink just yet.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

The top link on my 2360 is frozen; after working on it here and there since last fall I am giving up. The dealer wants $58.00 for a replacement. Can I get a suitable replacement from TSC or is there an upgrade I should consider? I can't swing the hydraulink just yet.

Ask your dealer for a take off or a used one. Should be only a few dollars.

 

[RoyJackson]

Top Links are pretty much standardized...TSC sells 'em for 30 bucks or so.
Either take yours to TSC or measure the barrel (center section) so you get the correct length.

 

[nspec]

The replacement I got at TSC was better than the original Kubota one in my opinion.

 

[PHILIP8N]

TSC or similar farm store will have your replacement. But, with loose fitting acme threads, you should be able to unstick it. Drill a small hole in the center, fill with diesel or other rust breaking fluid, clamp filled side down in vise, tap with hammer while rotating end, repeat. For extra excitement, apply heat from torch. Philip.

 

[moored4]

TSC or similar farm store will have your replacement. But, with loose fitting acme threads, you should be able to unstick it. Drill a small hole in the center, fill with diesel or other rust breaking fluid, clamp filled side down in vise, tap with hammer while rotating end, repeat. For extra excitement, apply heat from torch. Philip.

When you drill the hole make it the right size so you can tap it for a zert fitting when your done!

 

[Ken45101]

Top Links are pretty much standardized...TSC sells 'em for 30 bucks or so.
Either take yours to TSC or measure the barrel (center section) so you get the correct length.

My experience is that Kubota uses non standard sized top links. Standard sized ones are a little short or a little long. I ended up with have to switch between two different ones depending on the attachment. That was on a M4700.

Ken

 

[KYDan]

I bought the extended length one from TSC. Using my old Rhino box blade I would extend it enough to use the back blade on the box blade to finish drag my driveways. It was about $40 if I remember correctly. I really didn't like the top link that came with my new MX 5100 and replaced it with the TSC one.

 

[bucktaker]

soak it in some PB blaster it should free up.
lube threads with grease or anti-sieze after it's free never seen one this didnt work on.

 

[snpower]

Well I picked one up from TSC this morning for $20.00. I brought mine along to check the length and size of the hole on the bushing. Got home and... it's a little too wide to fit in the top link hardware (see pic). Guess I can file it down? It was the only Cat 1 they stocked.

 

[RoyJackson]

Well I picked one up from TSC this morning for $20.00. I brought mine along to check the length and size of the hole on the bushing. Got home and... it's a little too wide to fit in the top link hardware (see pic). Guess I can file it down? It was the only Cat 1 they stocked.

Yep, grind it down. Just make sure you clean up any chips and metallic dust when you're done.

Don't toss your old one...several posts have described how you may salvage it...I suggest you try to do that and keep it as a spare.
BTW, I spray my top link's threads (and everything else!) with fluid film. Try it...

 

[PHILIP8N]

Well I picked one up from TSC this morning for $20.00. I brought mine along to check the length and size of the hole on the bushing. Got home and... it's a little too wide to fit in the top link hardware (see pic). Guess I can file it down? It was the only Cat 1 they stocked.

Do you have a category '0' by chance?

Adjustable Top Link, Category 0 - 0267733 | Tractor Supply Company

 

[snpower]

Do you have a category '0' by chance?

Adjustable Top Link, Category 0 - 0267733 | Tractor Supply Company

All literature I've seen/read on the BX2360 points to a Cat 1 hitch.

 

[PHILIP8N]

All literature I've seen/read on the BX2360 points to a Cat 1 hitch.

I don't think the BX is a true Cat 1. Check out that link and see if that fits better.

Here is another useful link.
http://www.speeco.com/images/UserFiles/Forged Top Links.pdf

But as been said before, a little heat, a little penetrator, and a little tapping with a hammer, and your old one should be good as new. Just add some grease or anti-seeze. Philip.

 

[snpower]

I don't think the BX is a true Cat 1. Check out that link and see if that fits better.

Here is another useful link.
http://www.speeco.com/images/UserFiles/Forged Top Links.pdf

But as been said before, a little heat, a little penetrator, and a little tapping with a hammer, and your old one should be good as new. Just add some grease or anti-seeze. Philip.

You might be right. The one I picked up is in fact a little too long after all!

Using a blow torch and a 30 inch piece of pipe I can move the screw some. It's still impossible to move it by hand. There are four access ports on the link itself and I have filled the one side with PB. Not sure why, once it's unstuck, it's still so hard to move unless some cross threading has occurred.

Don't know what I'd do without everyone on this forum; after a year + of owning this tractor I feel like I'm still a newbie.

 

[snpower]

The Cat 0 from TSC has different size holes and doesn't extend enough to make full use of the implements.

 

[RoyJackson]

The Cat 0 from TSC has different size holes and doesn't extend enough to make full use of the implements.

At this point, I think your best bet is to ante up and buy a replacement from Kubota.

 

[snpower]

At this point, I think your best bet is to ante up and buy a replacement from Kubota.

My thoughts exactly.

However, I just ordered a Tisco JSA1009 which I have read about from others using it as a very good replacement for the stock Kubota one. $16.00 + $10.00 shipping. I'll be greasing/lubing the threads as soon as it arrives.

 

[nue2farm]

I have/had a problem with my toplink also. I will try some of the ideas here. Last time I really put the whoop on it I had to get my right shoulder repaired.......

 

[RoyJackson]

Since toplinks are the topic...for those of us who have quick hitches, and the top link may not be adjusted often, again I'll recommend Fluid Film or an equivalent lubricant/rust preventative.
Much easier to prevent corrosion then fix it after the fact, eh?