Bird
Rest in Peace
I'll certainly concede that point, Jerry. I've mowed borrow ditches, tank dams, etc. but probably not as rough a terrain as you have.
Toplink Toplink vs Chain on bushhog attachment
- Thread starter Anonymous Poster
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glennmac
Veteran Member
I have always found these threads about using chains on shredders to be confusing because the chains can be attached in different ways to accomplish different purposes--none of which really apply to most of us with modern CUTs and modern shredders. The article is also confusing in its descriptions because the author is using older farm tractors and implements as his frame of reference.
Concerning all of which, a few comments:
1. The discussion here is about how to get some flexibility into the linkage between the top of the 3ph and the top of the cutter so that the cutter has some room to lift up and down independent of the tractor. On most modern cutters, there is a swiveling U-bracket on the top of the cutter, which attaches to the tractor's toplink, that provides this flex. But what if you dont have such a U-bracket? That is the situation that started this thread. The author of the article describes various acceptable and safe jury rigs and contrivances for providing the needed flex. Replacing the entire toplink with a chain is not safe in his view. Bird and others in this thread have described other ways to provide the flex. For those of us who have or will be buying shredders with U-brackets, I think this whole discussion is essentially irrelevant. Even if the flip-and-squish risk is small, I don't understand the benefit of replacing the toplink and U-bracket with a length of chain. Maybe it could allow for more total flex, depending how long the chain is, but I wouldn't find that important for the cutting I do. On the negative side, by doing away with the toplink, it seems you would lose your convenient ability to lengthen and shorten.
2. A different use of chains is to use them as "check chains" to prevent the front of the deck from dropping below a certain level. I don't use check chains, and must admit I don't understand the benefit of using them if you have postion control on your 3ph. Doesn't the stop knob on the position control accomplish the same thing as check chains? Plus, with check chains you can't lower the deck if you want to (without readjusting the chains), as you can with position control. I need to do this all the time (ie, lower the cutter below the stop knob position) when I am backing over a bank. Of course, if you don't have position control or if your 3ph hydraulics leak down rapidly, check chains would be very valuable.
3. I don't think the ROPs on a tractor is going to stop the cutter's A-frame from taking off your head. And the cutter probably doesn't even need to flip up to 90 degrees for this unpleasant scenario.
Concerning all of which, a few comments:
1. The discussion here is about how to get some flexibility into the linkage between the top of the 3ph and the top of the cutter so that the cutter has some room to lift up and down independent of the tractor. On most modern cutters, there is a swiveling U-bracket on the top of the cutter, which attaches to the tractor's toplink, that provides this flex. But what if you dont have such a U-bracket? That is the situation that started this thread. The author of the article describes various acceptable and safe jury rigs and contrivances for providing the needed flex. Replacing the entire toplink with a chain is not safe in his view. Bird and others in this thread have described other ways to provide the flex. For those of us who have or will be buying shredders with U-brackets, I think this whole discussion is essentially irrelevant. Even if the flip-and-squish risk is small, I don't understand the benefit of replacing the toplink and U-bracket with a length of chain. Maybe it could allow for more total flex, depending how long the chain is, but I wouldn't find that important for the cutting I do. On the negative side, by doing away with the toplink, it seems you would lose your convenient ability to lengthen and shorten.
2. A different use of chains is to use them as "check chains" to prevent the front of the deck from dropping below a certain level. I don't use check chains, and must admit I don't understand the benefit of using them if you have postion control on your 3ph. Doesn't the stop knob on the position control accomplish the same thing as check chains? Plus, with check chains you can't lower the deck if you want to (without readjusting the chains), as you can with position control. I need to do this all the time (ie, lower the cutter below the stop knob position) when I am backing over a bank. Of course, if you don't have position control or if your 3ph hydraulics leak down rapidly, check chains would be very valuable.
3. I don't think the ROPs on a tractor is going to stop the cutter's A-frame from taking off your head. And the cutter probably doesn't even need to flip up to 90 degrees for this unpleasant scenario.
SPIKER
Elite Member
Re: Toplink vs Chain on bush-hog attachment
hi all:
as of yet I haven't put in my 2cents wort.
One thing is that when you are running a finish mower you don't use any 3rd link but then you are on mostly level ground and shouldn't be running over stumps with one of them, though I tried that a few weeks back (it is new property and was in high grass) (arrgg time for new blades!)
2nd thing is if you want extra flexibility so you can back over a bank then the chain has to be longer than needed when mowing flat...
one other thing if you wanted to use chains then run the chain through a lenght of pipe that is XX" long that way there is still some rigidness to it if the thing was to kick up.
I don't see how it could "Kick up" far enough to do any harm to the driver at all, if there is no hard top link (Which is what could conceivably hit him) then there should be no real worries. Only way i could think of one even kicking up very far was hitting a tree and having it "Climb Up" the tree, and if you are that careless then perhaps the "Gene pool" needs to have a few gallons removed! lol...
anyway that is just my opinion, I'll be checking back every day and reading more.
Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
hi all:
as of yet I haven't put in my 2cents wort.
One thing is that when you are running a finish mower you don't use any 3rd link but then you are on mostly level ground and shouldn't be running over stumps with one of them, though I tried that a few weeks back (it is new property and was in high grass) (arrgg time for new blades!)
2nd thing is if you want extra flexibility so you can back over a bank then the chain has to be longer than needed when mowing flat...
one other thing if you wanted to use chains then run the chain through a lenght of pipe that is XX" long that way there is still some rigidness to it if the thing was to kick up.
I don't see how it could "Kick up" far enough to do any harm to the driver at all, if there is no hard top link (Which is what could conceivably hit him) then there should be no real worries. Only way i could think of one even kicking up very far was hitting a tree and having it "Climb Up" the tree, and if you are that careless then perhaps the "Gene pool" needs to have a few gallons removed! lol...
anyway that is just my opinion, I'll be checking back every day and reading more.
Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
OP
Anonymous Poster
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Glenmac............That is the situation that started this thread. The author of the article describes various acceptable and safe jury rigs and contrivances for providing the needed flex. Replacing the entire toplink with a chain is not safe in his view................well written; but I was asking if it is sace and acceptable......thanks for the thoughts......I am really getting good education about this.....Dennis
OP
Anonymous Poster
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Please bear with me.......I have read and reread these pro's and con's.........
1. I get rid of the logging chain idea
2. I dont use hooks on the chains but positive nuts and bolts
3. I replace my rigid top link with a correct length of chain that fastens to the tractor side through or around the pin with a swivel or some other acceptable secure piece of hardware and then back to the mower to the pin that goes through the mower attachment point.
I like the solid length of pipe idea.
Is "third arm" the same as a top link?
Can one, do you think, run a length of chain and loop it through the pin on the tractor and then return it back to the mower and fasten it there with bolts or fastener? This eleminates one fastening point on the tractor itself.
Do provisions need to be made to someway keep the chain centered on the pins or does a bit of side play (3-4 inches) matter...
thanks.....Dennis
1. I get rid of the logging chain idea
2. I dont use hooks on the chains but positive nuts and bolts
3. I replace my rigid top link with a correct length of chain that fastens to the tractor side through or around the pin with a swivel or some other acceptable secure piece of hardware and then back to the mower to the pin that goes through the mower attachment point.
I like the solid length of pipe idea.
Is "third arm" the same as a top link?
Can one, do you think, run a length of chain and loop it through the pin on the tractor and then return it back to the mower and fasten it there with bolts or fastener? This eleminates one fastening point on the tractor itself.
Do provisions need to be made to someway keep the chain centered on the pins or does a bit of side play (3-4 inches) matter...
thanks.....Dennis
SageBrush
Gold Member
I didn't even know people used chain for a top link. I have some pretty (20 +years) old cutters and never felt the need for a chain link. Now I know. I'm going to look at my "bone yard" and see how the different top links were made. I can't remember if the old ones were rigid or not.
glennmac
Veteran Member
Re: Toplink vs Chain on bush-hog attachment
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( when you are running a finish mower you don't use any 3rd link)</font>
Spiker,
This statement puzzled me and may be puzzling some others. By saying "3rd link" I assume you mean the top link. Then I have to assume you are referring to the tow-behind kind of finish mower, since many of us have 3ph mounted finish mowers that do attach to the top link. Is that what you were referring to?
Batwing mowers are tow-behinds. And they aren't attached to the tractor by a protective rigid link. There was a guy in northern New Mexico once who hit a boulder while racing across the high sierra towing a batwing. It instantly flipped over on him. No one really knows what happened to him because the spot where it happened is now hyped as the Great Meteor Crater.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( when you are running a finish mower you don't use any 3rd link)</font>
Spiker,
This statement puzzled me and may be puzzling some others. By saying "3rd link" I assume you mean the top link. Then I have to assume you are referring to the tow-behind kind of finish mower, since many of us have 3ph mounted finish mowers that do attach to the top link. Is that what you were referring to?
Batwing mowers are tow-behinds. And they aren't attached to the tractor by a protective rigid link. There was a guy in northern New Mexico once who hit a boulder while racing across the high sierra towing a batwing. It instantly flipped over on him. No one really knows what happened to him because the spot where it happened is now hyped as the Great Meteor Crater.
gordon
Veteran Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Here is a more expensive solution. I bought a double acting hydraulic cylinder that matched my top link, both short and long, then ran some tubing between the holes for the hydraulic fluid. A tee section and a ball cock valve are included in the tubing. I filled it with fluid and am able to adjust from the seat to get the length I want. There is some play in the system depending on the weight of the implement, it also acts as a kickback device when I hit a rock with my plow, or bush hog. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif The cylinder cost close to $60 all included. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif )</font>
Slamfire---to simple!
Great idea
Gordon
Slamfire---to simple!
Great idea
Gordon
Henro
Elite Member
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- Jul 4, 2003
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- Few miles north of Pgh, PA
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Slamfire,
Any chance of your posting a picture of your setup?
I can visualize it in my mind, but would love to see a picture of it!
Bill in Pgh, PA
Any chance of your posting a picture of your setup?
I can visualize it in my mind, but would love to see a picture of it!
Bill in Pgh, PA
DennisArrow
Platinum Member
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- Sugar Valley, Ga
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- Iseki TL 2300, Kubota RTV, Kubota B7610
Back again.....missed it here.......in the mean time I have gotten a length of 3/8th chain and two connectors......the kind that look like chain links but screw shut after you have inserted this onto a length.......anyway, I looped this through the pin on the tractor and around the pin where the "normal" top link would attach to the mower........used it for about 3 hours today up and down a 10-25 degree slope (thanks R&B for relieving the pucker factor) and it seemed to do really well.......
Question.......do I tighten up the chain (or top link) when the 3PH is lowered or at it highest......or even at mowing height??????..........thanks for all of YOUR input....Dennis
Question.......do I tighten up the chain (or top link) when the 3PH is lowered or at it highest......or even at mowing height??????..........thanks for all of YOUR input....Dennis