Most general torque specs (ie: by std sizes/pitches) are listed for a 'lightly-oiled' thread. Sometimes we compensate for EP lubricants or anti-sieze compounds, where reducing by 10% or so is recommended to say, minimize bolt stretch or prevent stripping threads. There are times where consistency is as critical as specific settings. Head bolts demand the best of both, but typically with wheels, frames, and attachements we just want to be sure we're at least up to 'minimum' to keep things together. Offering absolute vs repeatable is subjective, and up to us to establish our preferred precision, ergonomics, etc.
I suggest that we often over-anticipate our particular needs, and as such would usually be happy with just about anything vs a wild guess & a Johnson bar. There's something of a feel to each type (beam or click) that is easily acquired, and any two can be checked against each other with a bit of tinkering & juggling. In 30+ yrs, from m'cycle engines to implements, I've found most tools 'close enough' (a few % or less, tolerance) and even the worst will git 'er done for all but the
most critical work. (... re-check for loosening here & there..)
I torque most anything I can find a
spec for, IMO
the critical thing to have on hand. My cheesiest import clickers have consistently calibrated ok to my best 'beams' (say +/- 2% or less), owed no doubt to backing the former's setting off between uses. I'm a machinist by trade and a reloader by hobby, and so no stranger to tolerance & precision. That you wisely choose to torque
is big, and IMO what you use
isn't so much. One doesn't need a Cadillac to drive to the corner for a gallon of milk, & I'd say 'go with a HFT import if it's price appeals'. You can call me the fool for saying so if/when your stuff falls apart ...
