Jerry/MT
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2008
- Messages
- 3,135
- Location
- North Idaho-The Palouse
- Tractor
- New Holland TD95D, Ford 4610 & Kubota M4500
And why is that?And the drain plug gets all the oil out. The valves do not…
And why is that?And the drain plug gets all the oil out. The valves do not…
The design of the valve. Either the valve is outside/below the drain hole, which would make them highly susceptible to getting broken off or damaged. So none of them are built that way. They put the valve mostly inside the pan, meaning above the drain hole. This make it so all the oil doesn’t or isn’t able to drain out the hole.And why is that?
I can't see this as a big deal. Even if you drain the oil hot, there is going to be a thin film of used oil over the entire engine interior, as well as a few pockets that never drain. I can't get too excited about only getting 98% of the oil out instead of 99%.The design of the valve. Either the valve is outside/below the drain hole, which would make them highly susceptible to getting broken off or damaged. So none of them are built that way. They put the valve mostly inside the pan, meaning above the drain hole. This make it so all the oil doesn’t or isn’t able to drain out the hole.
I would rather get almost all of the oil out by letting it drip while I take care of the filters etc, than make sure the drain plug was tightened to 33ft/lbs instead of 36 ft/lbs.I can't see this as a big deal. Even if you drain the oil hot, there is going to be a thin film of used oil over the entire engine interior, as well as a few pockets that never drain. I can't get too excited about only getting 98% of the oil out instead of 99%.
I have turned wrenches in one form or another for over 40 years. I have 3 click type torque wrenches from Snap On that have served me well. I do not drink the snap on cool aid but my 1/4" dr in/lb wrench and my 1/2" dr ft/lb have stayed accurate and in spec for 40 years. The problem was that the 1/4" was had no parts available so Snap on would NOT even check it. I had to have that tested at another place that was fantastic. My3/8" drive wrench has also stayed in spec but I have only had that for 20 years or so. The most critical thing is to back off the adjustment when finished but not to a hard stop. It is also important to check torque steady and gently. I have seen so many as**es jerk the torque wrench like a breaker bar. The torque wrench is only accurate when you hold the center of the handle also. I believe Snap on torque wrenches are made by CDI but I cannot be sure.I've got a Honda Hybrid car. Tend to do my oil changes myself as I've had work done before in life and didn't like what they did.
As I'm told, the oil pan is made from aluminum. The drain bolt, isn't. I've had a couple conversations about someone tightening down their drain plug (which has a crush washer) and stripping the oil pan threads.
That strikes me as a terribly inopportune thing to do. Enter idea of torque wrench. I've already got a 1/2" but not sure I need that for this bolt.... besides.... might be a good excuse to add a tool to the box. (I am thinking either 1/4" drive or maybe 3/8)
Not interested in paying $1,000 for one BUT, also not interested in finding one for $12.95 as I'd expect it to break on first use. Who makes a good torque wrench these days? My 1/2" is a clicker type, I like that. I see digital readouts now.... that tells me they have a battery. Batteries can die. Seems clicker style can go out of spec.... so all have some issues.
Thoughts/suggestions?
I'm guessing you meant set it back to the lowest setting on the tool after use. Most torque wrenches don't go to zero.The click type can indeed go out of spec. For that reason you should set it back to zero after use to prevent stretching the spring.