Torque wrenches

[check 6]

My over 20 year old craftsman torque wrenches are tired so I知 looking for new ones . Snap on are prices but considered high quality. In my search I致e come across Precision Instruments expensive but more reasonable than snap on . Has anyone had experience with this brand

 

[3Ts]

Not familiar with that brand. However there's been several posts comparing several different brands and Harbor Freight compares favorably with Snap-on and is a lot cheaper.

 

[check 6]

I wonder if they are comparing with Snap on or snap on industrial which is made for them by Williams tool overseas . There is a German brand I can’t remember that is rated high but in the snap on price class
Locally venders want in the neighborhood of $90 to calibrate wrenches plus the cost of any replacement parts

 

[jaydee325]

I own 2 clickers, a Harbor Freight 1/4" drive and a Mac 1/2" drive. Also, a circa 1970's Craftsman 3/8" beam type.

I'm not a professional tech but used to be. For the typical DYI mechanic, the HF clickers are well regarded on here as well as some other forums I frequent. If you are a pro that uses your torque wrenches daily, I'd spend the big bucks on Snap On etc. Which ever brand you have access to the tool truck. This way you can get the wrench serviced and periodically calibrated.

One thing that has me wondering is why the beam type torque wrenches are not that popular? I use my beam type more than either of my other torque wrenches, even when torque values overlap the others. It never goes out of calibration and I'll occasionally check my clickers against it for cal.

 

[ericm979]

The beam is not "cool", and you have to be able to view it straight on to get an accurate reading, which is sometimes not so easy.

 

[crazyal]

I have an old bean Craftsman my grandfather owned. It's not that precise but it does work. It's hanging on the wall of the garage as art next to a Black and Decker 3/4" all aluminum drill the size of a lawnmower engine. I have several different Craftsman clicker style in various sizes. On one the numbers on the plastic ring are starting to get worn off but it's at least 20 years old. While I like HF tools for some stuff I don't think I would buy a T-wrench. I'm sure it would work fine for the first 5 years of light duty use but will you get 20 years out of it? Since most weekend warriors never send their tools out to get calibrated will a HF wrench still be accurate in 20 years? Of course I don't think Craftsman is the same company now and I'm not sure if I would rate their current tools any better than HF.

 

[Captain Dirty]

<snip>
One thing that has me wondering is why the beam type torque wrenches are not that popular? I use my beam type more than either of my other torque wrenches, even when torque values overlap the others. It never goes out of calibration and I'll occasionally check my clickers against it for cal.

"Clickers" are probably the most popular because you can use them blindfolded; they are also the most likely to go out of calibration. Dial indicators require sight of the dial, although many have settable needles so you can see what torque you applied above the setting. Beam type require direct sight as the torque is applied so they are the least convenient. However they do not go out of calibration. If the beam is stressed beyond it yield point, it will acquire a "set" and not indicate zero when unloaded, so it is very easy to check.

My frugal yankee calibration tool is a 3/8-drive 3/8 square socket and an old Craftsman beam-type wrench, although if it told me my clicker was out of calibration, I do not know how to repair the clicker. I have also used a 50-lb. spring, fish scale on a 5' length of pipe over a 15" crescent wrench to get the 200+ ft-lbs required for spring shackles and have used smaller spring scales on combination wrenches for smaller values, but never calibrated the spring scales.

If specifications call for exacting torque measurements, remember the spec is for "dry" fasteners. Grease, oil, never-seize, and even thread-lockers provide lubrication so the exact setting will be over-torqued. (Rule of thumb is 20% less torque on lubed fasteners.) "Re-checking" the torque without first backing off the fastener also overtorques.

 

[jaydee325]

"Clickers" are probably the most popular because you can use them blindfolded; they are also the most likely to go out of calibration. Dial indicators require sight of the dial, although many have settable needles so you can see what torque you applied above the setting. Beam type require direct sight as the torque is applied so they are the least convenient. However they do not go out of calibration. If the beam is stressed beyond it yield point, it will acquire a "set" and not indicate zero when unloaded, so it is very easy to check.

My frugal yankee calibration tool is a 3/8-drive 3/8 square socket and an old Craftsman beam-type wrench, although if it told me my clicker was out of calibration, I do not know how to repair the clicker. I have also used a 50-lb. spring, fish scale on a 5' length of pipe over a 15" crescent wrench to get the 200+ ft-lbs required for spring shackles and have used smaller spring scales on combination wrenches for smaller values, but never calibrated the spring scales.

If specifications call for exacting torque measurements, remember the spec is for "dry" fasteners. Grease, oil, never-seize, and even thread-lockers provide lubrication so the exact setting will be over-torqued. (Rule of thumb is 20% less torque on lubed fasteners.) "Re-checking" the torque without first backing off the fastener also overtorques.

Very good points.

To enhance readability on my beam type torque wrench, I just place a piece of electrical tape along the scale where I want to torque. Agree, severe off angle sight will affect final value, so adjust accordingly. One technique I use if I'm torquing say the drain plug on the bottom of my motorcycle transmission, I'll just lay a mirror on the floor and get a good reading with the assistance of the tape clearly indicating where I want the torque to be.

I've also improvised with a fish scale. I wanted to set the preload on a set of tappered bearings on a shaft. The manual specified 20 inch pounds on the preload nut. However the nut required a spanner wrench. I found a spanner in my box of "might need" tools. A little grinding, the spanner fit the nut perfectly. I then measured 6" from the center of the spanner throat and ground a notch for the hook of the fish scale. A pull of 10 pounds and I had my preload set per the manual.

 

[5030]

I have both Snap-On and HF Icon clicker wrenches in 3/8 and 1/2 drive plus a Blackhawk in 3/4 drive. The HF Icon wrenches are as accurate as the Snap-On ones and I tested both on a torque master to find out. Actually the Icon wrenches are a tad more accurate than the Snap On ones.

Not the cheapo HF Pittsburg clickers, the ICON clickers. The Icon's and the Snap-On's side by side are identical, except for the laser etched name. Adjustment is identical, feel is identical but one thing about the Icon I like better and that is the Icon ratchet head is finer than the Snap On head. Of course both torque left hand and right hand, I need that for setting bearing preload.

Best part is the Icon 1/2 drive is under 125 bucks every day. The Snap On is north of 450 bucks. No brainer choice with me. I won't even get into what my Blackhawk 3/4 drive dial wrench cost. You'd faint. Let just say around a grand give or take. I need a 3/4 high torque wrench as well.

I'll sell you my snap On for 300 bills if you want it. Has a recent certification on it too.

 

[LouNY]

To verify the calibration of a torque wrench is not rocket science;
1)clamp a socket in your vise,
2)fit your torque wrench to the socket so the handle is parallel to the floor and clear of any benches or obstructions,
then the hard part how long is your wrench from the center of the drive to the center of you handle
3) for example if your handle length is 12" your multiplier is 1, if it's 1' 6" or 18" it's 1.5 whatever your length comes to in ft and tenths of a ft is your multiplier.
4) as an example a wrench with an 18" handle would have a multiplier of 1.5 times what ever weight you hang from the center of the hand pull area. if using a 50 pound weight
you have 75 pounds of torque a 100 pound weight 150 pounds of torque.

Many times when a wrench is sent out for calibration you get back a correction sheet the applied value to what it was reading and you have to make the correction when you use the wrench.