Total Newbie with Mahindra Questions

[JerryK]

James--

The 5545 has "Category 1 and 2 with telescopic stabilizers." I have no clue as to what Category 1 and 2 mean.

--Bill

' Usually ' the ball ends rotate with Cat 1 and Cat 2 size holes, depending on how you rotate them ...... [ heavy on the usually... ]

 

[dickfoster]

James--

The 5545 has "Category 1 and 2 with telescopic stabilizers." I have no clue as to what Category 1 and 2 mean.

--Bill

Cat1 and Cat 2 relate to the size and dimensions of and between the hitch members. It's on the web with pictures and dimensions so you know exactly. It determines what implements you can buy and hitch up. The bigger the tractor the bigger the hitch you can run and bigger more badass implements you can pull behind it.http://https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three-point_hitch

 

[k0ua]

Since your proposed tractor purchase has passed into the realm separating CUT (Compact Utility Tractor)from UT (Utility tractor) you will have Cat 1 and Cat 2 capability. As tractors get larger, the implements get larger and the ball end, draft links, top links and all associated hardware to pull those larger implements gets larger. They start at Cat 0, Cat 1 (the most common for many SCUTS and all CUTS) Cat 2 Usually starts around the 50 horsepower range, Cat 3, Cat 4 etc for really large tractors.

 

[dickfoster]

It's important to note that when the backhoe goes on, the hitch components have to come off and get stored. Consequently when you want to use the hitch you have to remove the backhoe and reinstall the hitch stuff. You won't want to do this very often.

In line with the hitch you might want to add a rear remote too. This is for running hydraulic top links and stuff. Many folks have more than one rear remote for top and tilt and all sorts of fancy things. If you aren't going to do plowing or put in any roads then you probably don't need much in the way of additional rear hydraulics. I got one just to be on the safe side. I didn't opt for the 3rd function up front because I didn't have your needs in mind. Those can be added without too much trouble later on and usually for less than what Mahindra wants for them. It all depends on what you intend to do with it right out of the gate. In your case a front grapple demands it.

 

[BubbaBillyBob]

James and dickfoster and All--

James, thanks for the Cat explanation. It's clear now.

dickfoster, is the difficulty level involved in r&r of the "hitch stuff" directly proportional to tractor size? I'm wondering how heavy it may be on a 5545 and whether it is a one-man operation or not.

I DO need to work on a "road." Currently, there is a logging road off the gravel county through the forest leading to my property. The logging road path is 1.1 miles long before you get to our place. It is all level except for about 250 feet of rather steep ledge rock which gets washed out in heavy rains. I'll use the tractor to fill in after such rains. I want to improve the rest, including the further half mile stretching the length of our property. How will a box blade work for this type of operation--excluding the steep, ledge rock portion--in ground that may be somewhat rocky? Does a box blade require additional hydraulics?

I'll post a video of the tour down the logging road later. I have to find it, first.

--Bill

 

[k0ua]

BillyBob. As the implements get larger and heavier, your ability to "horse" them around gets harder and harder. Of course you can use aids like a prybar or some guys put implements on pallets with wheels or other methods to make hookups easier.

My advice is to always park implements on the most solid level ground you can. The telescoping lower links and stabilizers are a great aid in getting hooked up. As the implements get larger and heavier, many opt for installing a full Quick Hitch with at least hydraulic top link and many also have the hydraulic side lift link. This allows hookup from the tractor seat and using the hydraulic cylinders to make small adjustments to get things to line up.

You will discover all the joys of "hooking up" as you start to use your tractor, and you will also discover the joy of dropping off an implement on uneven ground or it sinks into the mud, and then when you go to hook it back up you can expand your swear word vocabulary. Anything that makes that job easier will be appreciated.

 

[k0ua]

Box blades do not "require" hydraulics, but a hydraulic top link and/or side link can make operation faster and easier for you as an operator. Otherwise you get to jump off and climb back on your tractor after making minute adjustments to the top link to adjust the attack angle and maybe the side link if you are trying to match terrain or build a crown in the road. It is just a matter of convenience and speed. Professionals that use a box blade every day will nearly always have some hydraulics. By the way here on TBN we often refer to that as TNT or "Top aNd Tilt" Meaning both hydraulic top link and hydraulic side lift link.

Bet you didn't know you were going to have to go to school and learn a bunch of new terms and acronyms when you got a tractor did you?:laughing:

 

[Jabonee]

Jabonee[/B], the last thing I did today while at the dealer's was to have the owner take me through the service department. The service area consists of about six drive through bays. A lot of work was going on; a Ford was in a bay with the engine torn down for an overhaul and a Mahindra was in another bay being examined for a leak in the head. The shop looked good and well-used.

l

Thats a good step in the right direction. Are they a "Red Carpet Dealership"?Did you ask if there technicians attended service training? Do they have technicians training certificates displayed?

 

[BubbaBillyBob]

All--

This video is the "road" I need to improve. The video is long and I certainly do not expect anyone to actually watch all of it. However, if you watch a little bit and then skip ahead to where we get out of the truck and walk over to the cliff, you will see why we want to build on that site.

Warning: Not of interest to many! Bill and Barb's EXCELLENT Adventure - YouTube

--Bill

 

[jeff9366]

I DO need to work on a "road." It is all level except for about 250 feet of rather steep ledge rock which gets washed out in heavy rains. How will a box blade work for this type of operation--excluding the steep, ledge rock portion--in ground that may be somewhat rocky?

Does a box blade require additional hydraulics?

A Box Blade is for soil. Gravel is OK too. Actual rock-rock, which needs to be chipped out, is too much, you will only beat up the implement and/or snap off the scarifier points.

You probably need a bulldozer.


There is a particular sub-type of Box Blade, called a Rollover Box Blade, which does not require additional tractor hydraulics and is somewhat less finicky in operation than a standard Box Blade. I use my Bush Hog (brand) Rollover Box Blade in conjunction with a Hydraulink (brand) Top Link. Key effectiveness metric remains weight per unit of width. My 60" ROBB weighs 620 pounds.

LINKS: Dirt Dog Manufacturing

VIDEO: Bush Hog Rollover Box Blade RO72 HD - YouTube