Toyota Tacoma brakes

[Rustyiron]

Thanks CM. I'll take your advice! I still don't understand the sudden onset of this condition.
I do have every "ticket" of work done on this vehicle. I bought it from a nice 72 y/o man that took it back to Toyota for every concievable issue, and all the paperwork was included. I did not notice any brake work or service, but the 45k oil change and associated checklist that this dealer did was not done yet. I changed the oil today, and need to read about the "rears" and tranny/x-fer case etc. for thier service intervals.
This sale was almost like the proverbial "little old lady that only drove it to church on Sunday" story.:thumbsup:

 

[truckdiagnostics]

I would guess that there is air in the system, I've seen quite a few of these vehicles in the shop. On the Tacoma, there is a specific bleed procedure that needs to be performed with a bi-directional scan tool that will command the abs pump on to bleed each wheel individually. using an old school pressure bleeder just pushes the air around, not out. you can foot bleed that vehicle until your blue in the face-with no luck. my recommendation would be to have a local shop do it. Anyone with an adequate scanner can do it. (It's listed on the function test on the snap-on solus) Good luck.--nick

Not surprising, here is steps I found, sounds like you can bleed everything but master without tool and can do with just stepping on brakes.
Brake bleeding w/ABS w/o the SST tool? ... - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum
This would be a start. Now if you plan on keeping vehicle.... I usually get what I need to do the work myself.
First thing would be a repair manual, Looked on line not real clear, where and what is REAL OEM manual.
I have vehicle by vehicle on-line manuals though Mitchells seen ALLdata and use at shop have access to it is nice also.
Getting you own scan tool not out of the question, here is what I use that is PC bases and can add do vehicle by vehicle, not most user friendly, so if you use it regularly on same vehicle, learning curve not as big of a deal, found that it will do everything expensive hand held will do. It is just figuring out how to get it to do it.
https://www.autoenginuity.com/products/oe-coverage-options/toyota-scion-lexus-ei03.html
Looking at things should do what you want, for $450. If interested PM and we can talk more.
If you are fairly mechanical can read and younger, I am 53, it is worth it and rewarding to figure this stuff out. At 53 wasn't going to throw in the towel and let some one else work on my stuff! Also, it is on our tractors, so getting comfortable with the new diagnostics on our cars and light trucks is wise. If you mess them up a tow truck is a lot easier to come by. About the the only thing i take a vehicle in for is an alignment.
Kid is looking at a used Tacoma, and research what it takes to work on it before I by it. Yes, it is his but lets not kid ourselves who you thinks he is going to be working on it. Also, believe in keeping all vehicles makes and models the same. Saves on the diagnostic equipment costs and learning curve down.

 

[Fallon]

Never had anything like that on my 2009 Tacoma & I'm about to hit 100k on it. When the ABS or tracton control (essentially the same thing, only traction control engages without your foot on the brake pedal) kicks in, the pedal feels like a wratchet when you are spinning it backwards. You can feel it clicking & a little bit of vibration as the pumps & valves do thier thing. I live on a dirt road in Colorado & drive like I know I have ABS & traction control, so it kicks in a decent bit as I slide down the dirt road. I often let traction control do it's thing rather than kick it into 4wd.

I've never had a soft pedal or had to pump it to get braking pressure. Sounds like a blown master cylinder or something. When you have no power boost on the brakes, the pedal gets hard, not soft. Try pumping the brakes with the engine off, it gets really hard after a pump or 2 as the vacuume bleeds off. It's a good idea to try it once in a while so you know how hard you actually have to stomp on the brakes if you ever loose the power assist.

 

[HHR]

Could it be that the rear drums are out of adjustment and when you drive a distance the shoes retract and the first couple applications of the pedal are taking up the clearance? I would be tempted to pull the drums off and inspect adjusters, shoes etc.

 

[crazyal]

Could it be that the rear drums are out of adjustment and when you drive a distance the shoes retract and the first couple applications of the pedal are taking up the clearance? I would be tempted to pull the drums off and inspect adjusters, shoes etc.

This is what I'm thinking. Since the master has two separate cylinders, one for the front and one for the rear, the mushy feeling could be the front section working quickly as expected but the rear needing more movement to move one of the rear slave cylinders the extra distance. Try setting the parking brake, if things are working correctly it's suppose to adjust the brake shoes. Set it a couple of times and see if your problem is resolved. If do decide to bleed the system I would also pull the rear drums and maybe even replace the hardware kit and manually adjust the shoes.

 

[ultrarunner]

We have this law up here that requires any vehicle that is changing ownership requires a recent certificate of mechanical fitness signed by a licensed mechanic, brake inspection is one of the primary requirements of that inspection. I'm guessing that is not a common requirement in the USA and beginning to think it is a really good law up here :|

When a California Dealer retails any car off the lot it must have a brake inspection... been the law forever.

Private party is as-is where-is with the exception the seller MUST provide a passing smog certificate issued within the last 90 days and it goes back to year model 1976!

 

[truckdiagnostics]

They are drum and that would do it. Older vehicle that does not get driven shoes stuck, didn't look how that vehicle does the e brake, but if that was applied now is stuck partially applied, could cause that condition. That makes sense and is a easy check.

 

[Rustyiron]

I'm running it, and when I get a chance taking it to Toyota (or someone) who can do a full flush & fill on the brake system. It may be that I'm just used to the brakes (feel) on Ford & Chebby 3/4t & up. It does stop fine, but the pedal does increase in braking at the top of the "stroke" with each pump. So far, I'm enjoying scooting around in this little "guy", vs, the 3/4 Sub. or f350 crew w/8' bed!

 

[truckdiagnostics]

Brakes should not pump up. You maybe able to get the rear brakes to adjust up, by backing up straight, braking hard, don't need to skid the tires. Do it several times.

 

[Coyote machine]

This thread, like many could go on forever with all kinds of what if's etc. Get the brakes bled by someone with the right tools and know how and see what condition the fluid is in. When changed it should be clear to slightly yellowish, depending on brand/requirements for your vehicles system.
Do it sooner than later. Little old lady, church on Sunday is actually no better than kid running it hard. Use or lack thereof both have their up and downside. It's BRAKES, not the stereo system. Get it checked/fixed and be safe. End of story, next case.