That is what it sounds like to me.
Toyota Tacoma brakes
- Thread starter Rustyiron
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That is what it sounds like to me.
RustyIron, here is a link.(read 3rd paragraph) If your have excessive run out on the rotors it will push the pistons in the calipers back in.
Tomorrow if you drive something else try pumping the brake pedal one time before you apply the brakes, the brake pedal will be firmer.
Changing the brake fluid on the truck is not a bad idea, and it will improve the pedal feel too.
Tomorrow if you drive something else try pumping the brake pedal one time before you apply the brakes, the brake pedal will be firmer.
Changing the brake fluid on the truck is not a bad idea, and it will improve the pedal feel too.
crazyal
Super Member
If the truck is stopping fine but the pedal continues to move then it's not your front brakes. Master cylinders are designed so that if you have a fluid leak in either the front or rear brake lines the other will continue to work. When this happens the pedal has excessive movement but will still apply more than enough force on the working brakes to stop the vehicle. Toyota trucks use a proportioning valve on the rear axle. The idea is to reduce the amount of rear braking when the pickup isn't loaded. This is to prevent the rear from becoming tail happy spinning the truck while braking. If your braking is good but the pedal continues to move further towards the floor then the front brakes are working correctly. Before anti-lock brakes you could simply cap off the rear brake line and see if your problem is resolved to confirm it's the rear brakes.
Toyota rear drum brakes are adjusted by using the hand brake. If they are out of adjustment the parking brake will also be out of adjustment. Count how many clicks you can hear when applying the parking brake. I thought I read something like 5 clicks is normal. The best way to adjust the rear brakes is to drive in reverse at a couple miles an hour and repeatedly apply then release the parking brake. Do it like 20 times and then count the number of clicks when you set it. If the brake was out of adjustment but now is adjusted correctly the number of clicks should be less.
Start with the easy things first that's not going to cost you money. Warped rotors, replacing the fluid, etc. these things are not cheap and since you don't know if it will solve the problem I wouldn't do them until you know the simple common issues are resolved or are in spec. Most people never use the parking brake. Around here they often get rusted and you could find it's frozen on after using it. So the automatic adjustment of the rear brakes never get's used.
Toyota rear drum brakes are adjusted by using the hand brake. If they are out of adjustment the parking brake will also be out of adjustment. Count how many clicks you can hear when applying the parking brake. I thought I read something like 5 clicks is normal. The best way to adjust the rear brakes is to drive in reverse at a couple miles an hour and repeatedly apply then release the parking brake. Do it like 20 times and then count the number of clicks when you set it. If the brake was out of adjustment but now is adjusted correctly the number of clicks should be less.
Start with the easy things first that's not going to cost you money. Warped rotors, replacing the fluid, etc. these things are not cheap and since you don't know if it will solve the problem I wouldn't do them until you know the simple common issues are resolved or are in spec. Most people never use the parking brake. Around here they often get rusted and you could find it's frozen on after using it. So the automatic adjustment of the rear brakes never get's used.
The Fred
Veteran Member
The front brake pads are stuck in the calipers and this is a VERY common Tacoma issue in the saltland.
You'll either have to pull the pads out and free them up or replace calipers if you don't have a blast cabinet or a way to remove the rust.
If you do the job yourself get the hardware pins and clips and stupid spring thingee that looks like a hairclip. Remove the front wheels and use a large pair of water pump pliers and try to move the INNER pads to their home position before tearing everything apart. You will see right off what I am talking about.
Very, very, very common problem that starts at around 45K miles.
Good luck, Fred
You'll either have to pull the pads out and free them up or replace calipers if you don't have a blast cabinet or a way to remove the rust.
If you do the job yourself get the hardware pins and clips and stupid spring thingee that looks like a hairclip. Remove the front wheels and use a large pair of water pump pliers and try to move the INNER pads to their home position before tearing everything apart. You will see right off what I am talking about.
Very, very, very common problem that starts at around 45K miles.
Good luck, Fred
OP
Rustyiron
Super Member
I was just about to report back.
For those of you suggesting that the rear brakes out of adjustment, bingo! Today I had the time to pull the rear drums off, I added a whole bunch of "out" on the drivers side, like 3/8" to the adjuster, and a little less on the other side. Everything feels normal now. I adjusted it as close as I could and still get the drums over the "ridge" and then did the reverse braking deal. There is really not enough room to hit the adj. "star" from the outside.
Both sides were dry upon inside inspection and it just was way out of adjustment. I stll hold to the story that the brakes were normal just before, remember I had just driven this truck for the first time on the test drive with the prev owner an hour or so before this (seemingly) happened on the way home. ??
Thanks for the help, I'll still get the flush & fill done, prolly at Toyota. From what I've heard from everyone, these little trucks are good for a long time, and not that I havn't taken care of my other vehicles, but this one will get some of extra attention.
truckdiagnostics
Platinum Member
cool. Nice when it proves to be simple. I'm amazed they are running rear drum.
FYI, flushing brake fluid on vehicles that do a lot of towing or get heavy brake use, REAL important.
Brake fluid adsorbs moisture, moisture is not good in brake fluid that gets really hot!
Had issues with brake fade on the suburban when towing, flushed issue went away.
FYI, flushing brake fluid on vehicles that do a lot of towing or get heavy brake use, REAL important.
Brake fluid adsorbs moisture, moisture is not good in brake fluid that gets really hot!
Had issues with brake fade on the suburban when towing, flushed issue went away.
OP
Rustyiron
Super Member
I have heavier trucks for that work, this is a handy, economical runaround.
Thanks for your help.
clemsonfor
Super Member
i have two toyota SUVs of a similar vintage if anything goes on with the ABS that light and the brake light come on.
The issue you describe sounds similar to a bad master cylinder. But you almost never hear of that on a toyota of that age and with that many miles?
The issue you describe sounds similar to a bad master cylinder. But you almost never hear of that on a toyota of that age and with that many miles?
