Traction Traction in Mud

   / Traction in Mud #31  
Yeah, those will do for mud holes all right.
 
   / Traction in Mud #32  
After seeing the pictures there is now way I would have tried that.You "gotter done".
What part of Oswego co. are you in?I lived in Fulton and Phoenix for a while;worked at the nukes and brewery(B-Ville) from 1975-1985.
 
   / Traction in Mud #33  
Long term i would fix the area I put gravel and drain pipes in an area that I had problems with. Use your
tractor to fix the problem area.
 
   / Traction in Mud #34  
Don't think I saw tire pressure mentioned, but the lower you can go without breaking the bead the better the grip. My rears call for 20 PSI, but I run about 15 and It's a big improvement.
 
   / Traction in Mud #35  
With all those trees around you can always get yourself out. Just stop by your local fire department and ask if they have any old fire hose around (they are always replacing it) to use to protect any tree you wrap a chain around. To go in reverse just curl your bucket down (on my Kubota you can't curl it all the way down as it doesn't have the strength to push the tractor back so you just don't go quite that far), plant it into the mud lifting your front wheels out of the mud and as you drive in reverse uncurl the bucket. If your tractor wants to slide back into the hole made by your tires when you raise the front bucket use a chain to one of the trees to prevent it from doing so. Just move as far back as possible as I said, get off and chain the tractor as tight as you can get it before raising the bucket, curl the bucket down again, plant it and move again. The mud has to be really deep for that not to work.

To go forward I hook a chain onto the front bucket and a tree then use the curl function to tighten the chain up. I've never done it on my Kubota but have had to plenty of times with my backhoe.
 
   / Traction in Mud
  • Thread Starter
#36  
With all those trees around you can always get yourself out. Just stop by your local fire department and ask if they have any old fire hose around (they are always replacing it) to use to protect any tree you wrap a chain around. To go in reverse just curl your bucket down (on my Kubota you can't curl it all the way down as it doesn't have the strength to push the tractor back so you just don't go quite that far), plant it into the mud lifting your front wheels out of the mud and as you drive in reverse uncurl the bucket. If your tractor wants to slide back into the hole made by your tires when you raise the front bucket use a chain to one of the trees to prevent it from doing so. Just move as far back as possible as I said, get off and chain the tractor as tight as you can get it before raising the bucket, curl the bucket down again, plant it and move again. The mud has to be really deep for that not to work.

To go forward I hook a chain onto the front bucket and a tree then use the curl function to tighten the chain up. I've never done it on my Kubota but have had to plenty of times with my backhoe.

That, CrazyAl, is a good technique. Hope I never have to use it, but I'll remember your tips if I ever do need it! Nice!!!
 
   / Traction in Mud #37  
   / Traction in Mud #38  
I would get a couple of dump truck loads of 0 to 6 delivered, and start in on an edge and dump a bucket load in the edge, and then keep working out and driving over the rocks, and working it down into the mud, until the rock mix stays on top. Just keep building "road" until you reach the far side of the hole. Then finish the top off with some 0 to 3/4 base to make is smooth. See how that works out.
 
   / Traction in Mud #39  

Yep. I live in these daily, and worse, created by my continuous "logging" with the FEL at near max. capacity as I am clearing my property home site and the very wet spring we are having. When the ruts get too deep I spend some time with the ROBB and bucket leveling it out and hopefully letting it dry out somewhat; but this spring has been unusually wet and drying out is seldom. I ran a subsoiler in the worst areas hoping for better drainage- but that has not seemed to help.

My course is to use 4WD continuously (2WD would get me nowhere). Then resort to differential lock when I start to get stuck. Had to use the loader once to get unstuck by lifting the left buried front wheel out of the muck, which allowed differential lock and the rear tires to pull me backwards to more stable ground.

Test your differential lock by being in a sloppy section, noticing only one wheel spinning and then engage the lock and hopefully both rear wheels will be engaged and spinning after a few revolutions. You can make the situation more lively by having your bucket digging into the ground while doing this test and seeing the results.

_EM50296.JPG

Edit: I also have a Jeep GC with a 9k winch on the front and a 12k mount for the rear of the tractor, with all of the accessories, but have not had to use either yet. But I expect to one day.
 
   / Traction in Mud #40  
I would get a couple of dump truck loads of 0 to 6 delivered, and start in on an edge and dump a bucket load in the edge, and then keep working out and driving over the rocks, and working it down into the mud, until the rock mix stays on top. Just keep building "road" until you reach the far side of the hole. Then finish the top off with some 0 to 3/4 base to make is smooth. See how that works out.

I did similar when building my driveway as there was a lot of fill dirt used after removing small, buried boulders. Some areas were very soft and even my Jeep could get stuck. I laid 1.5" of slag over the whole driveway and end of problem. I think they interlocked well enough to not require packing down into the soft stuff. It actually worked far better than expected.
 
 
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