Tractor battery issue

[Redbarchetta]

Got new batt., but same issue. It will turn over but soon as i turn it off a minute later. Its totally dead no lights dash etc. Sometimes i will get slight power but not enough to start. If i disconnect battery and put terminals back on - i will get power sometimes enough to turn but as soon as I turn it off. I get zero battery again for lts etc To be clear i can sometimes get it too run sometimes not after reconnecting battery. Is this the voltage reg? Key seems to turn fine - where is VR.

 

[jaxs]

Search this forum for CLICK, battery,no start,dead or such and you will find enough reading to to last you a spell. I could repeat all of it but I might miss something.

 

[ultrarunner]

If it were mine I would load test my battery to confirm it's good as in fully charged and can deliver/maintain cranking amperage.

Next I would check all my connection... I've had a negative cable separate from the lug just by giving it s tug.

I've solved two no crank problems for friends...

One was a motor home that would start cold but never warm... been to dealer several times and money spent for batteries, starter, key switch, solenoid, etc.

Dad's friend was ready to drive it off a cliff... I said let me take a look and went under and asked for jumper cables and he started cussing saying the battery is new... I'm 17 and said just give me the cables and took one clamped to starter bolt and another to frame and it started each and everytime... lack of ground path from frame to starter was the problem and solved with a $2 braided ground strap bolted to frame and starter.

The other was a bad starter armature bushing that had slipped so the starter was drawing tremendous amps mimicking a weak battery because the armature shaft was cocked.

 

[DJ54]

Issues sound like a bad ground. You can give the cable a tug where it clamps on the battery end and make sure it's not loose. If it sems pretty snug, look for where the ground cable end attaches to the chassis, and check if it is loose. If not, remove and clean cable end, and underneath where it makes contact with the chassis. Reinstall cable and try it. If it's still a no go, take one jumper cable clip on the ground battery post, the other to one of the bolts holding the starter in. It will have to be a bright connection and as close to the starter as possible, then give it a try. If it starts several times, you have a bad cable. If it doesn't you have other possible issues, although I have seen where the starter mounts to the chassis rusty enough it would not ground out. Either under the bolt heads, and where the face of the starter meets the chassis. But that was on a tractor that had set out in the weather for years. I'd have to guess the majority of symptoms like you described are grounding issues. I've seen quite a few battery cables corroded inside the battery post clamp that looked fine, and under the battery cable sheath.

As far as the VR, your tractor the VR is internal, whether it is a 35 or 40 amp alternator according to this exploded view of both. https://www.weingartz.com/assembly-...or-40-amp-009849-electrical/4275-35293-551319

 

[BlueKnife]

Got new batt., but same issue. It will turn over but soon as i turn it off a minute later. Its totally dead no lights dash etc. Sometimes i will get slight power but not enough to start. If i disconnect battery and put terminals back on - i will get power sometimes enough to turn but as soon as I turn it off. I get zero battery again for lts etc To be clear i can sometimes get it too run sometimes not after reconnecting battery. Is this the voltage reg? Key seems to turn fine - where is VR.

Test the battery and check the connections from battery to starter, alternator, fuse box, chassis and body.

 

[Redbarchetta]

Search this forum for CLICK, battery,no start,dead or such and you will find enough reading to to last you a spell. I could repeat all of it but I might miss something.

Thanks , yes I spent all day se

Search this forum for CLICK, battery,no start,dead or such and you will find enough reading to to last you a spell. I could repeat all of it but I might miss something.

thanks yes i spent all day yest searching but couldn’t find same symptoms

 

[Redbarchetta]

Tha

If it were mine I would load test my battery to confirm it's good as in fully charged and can deliver/maintain cranking amperage.

Next I would check all my connection... I've had a negative cable separate from the lug just by giving it s tug.

I've solved two no crank problems for friends...

One was a motor home that would start cold but never warm... been to dealer several times and money spent for batteries, starter, key switch, solenoid, etc.

Dad's friend was ready to drive it off a cliff... I said let me take a look and went under and asked for jumper cables and he started cussing saying the battery is new... I'm 17 and said just give me the cables and took one clamped to starter bolt and another to frame and it started each and everytime... lack of ground path from frame to starter was the problem and solved with a $2 braided ground strap bolted to frame and starter.

The other was a bad starter armature bushing that had slipped so the starter was drawing tremendous amps mimicking a weak battery because the armature shaft was cocke

If it were mine I would load test my battery to confirm it's good as in fully charged and can deliver/maintain cranking amperage.

Next I would check all my connection... I've had a negative cable separate from the lug just by giving it s tug.

I've solved two no crank problems for friends...

One was a motor home that would start cold but never warm... been to dealer several times and money spent for batteries, starter, key switch, solenoid, etc.

Dad's friend was ready to drive it off a cliff... I said let me take a look and went under and asked for jumper cables and he started cussing saying the battery is new... I'm 17 and said just give me the cables and took one clamped to starter bolt and another to frame and it started each and everytime... lack of ground path from frame to starter was the problem and solved with a $2 braided ground strap bolted to frame and starter.

The other was a bad starter armature bushing that had slipped so the starter was drawing tremendous amps mimicking a weak battery because the armature shaft was cocked.

Thanks for taking the time to respond , I’ll be back at it

If it were mine I would load test my battery to confirm it's good as in fully charged and can deliver/maintain cranking amperage.

Next I would check all my connection... I've had a negative cable separate from the lug just by giving it s tug.

I've solved two no crank problems for friends...

One was a motor home that would start cold but never warm... been to dealer several times and money spent for batteries, starter, key switch, solenoid, etc.

Dad's friend was ready to drive it off a cliff... I said let me take a look and went under and asked for jumper cables and he started cussing saying the battery is new... I'm 17 and said just give me the cables and took one clamped to starter bolt and another to frame and it started each and everytime... lack of ground path from frame to starter was the problem and solved with a $2 braided ground strap bolted to frame and starter.

The other was a bad starter armature bushing that had slipped so the starter was drawing tremendous amps mimicking a weak battery because the armature shaft was cocked.

thanks I’ll be back at it this evening and will report. I don’t think a fuse would be related to the symptoms right? Can’t find fuse descriptions for 955 but my guess would be they wouldn’t work and then not work

 

[EddieWalker]

I have a similar issue with a riding mower. New battery that is connected to a trickle charger that might start on some days, and it might not on others. I think the safety switch is one of my issues because nothing at all will happen when turning the key. Other times it will try to crank, but it wont spin. I've tried jumping it off of my truck with the engine running, and nothing changes. I cleaned all my terminals and it worked great, then it didn't work on another day. My next plan is to replace the cables.

 

[BlueKnife]

Thanks , yes I spent all day se

thanks yes i spent all day yest searching but couldn’t find same symptoms

You spent all day searching the forum, or searching for the problem? What diagnostic actions have you tried already?

 

[grsthegreat]

Ohm out the battery cables. I have seen many battery cable failures where wires rotted inside rubber case. Looked good, but were not.

 

[etpm]

I have had similar symptoms on my tractor. I had a bad solenoid. I would try to start the tractor and it acted like a dead battery. So then I would charge the battery and it would start. So I thought it was the battery. What was happening was a coincidence and I thought it was the battery. I finally decided it must be the solenoid when the tractor wouldn't start even with jumpers and I already knew my cables were good as were the connections.
A friend recently also had a similar problem and his problem was the cable. The connection of the cable to the battery clamp was actually loose so that it made intermittent connection. When you fuss with taking the cable off of the battery you could be moving the cable connection around such that it makes contact long enough to start the tractor but then the connection loosens like it did on my friend's truck. Corroded cables can do this. They will corrode inside the insulation where you can't see and you moving the cable around can connect wires that have corroded through.
Eric

 

[garry1p]

New battery and everything you can think of still checks OK!

Exact same thing on a friends JD. I suggested he check the ignition/glow plug switch, a few days later he said "problem solved".
He didn't know how to check the switch so he replaced it for $45 and it has been working ever since.

This happened to me a few years ago, it would also on occasion shut down for no reason and might or might not start back up.

Garry

 

[Redbarchetta]

Thx everyone - went to replace my neg bat cable and it looks like it attached to engine mount post- got the bolt loose but it doesnt seem to come out - if feel dumb

 

[ultrarunner]

No nuts on the back side?

Or maybe the bolt is subject to side forces preventing removal and either the mount needs to be slightly moved/pried and or getting under the head of the bold to lift.

Are you still able to tighten the bolt tight?

 

[Redbarchetta]

New battery and everything you can think of still checks OK!

Exact same thing on a friends JD. I suggested he check the ignition/glow plug switch, a few days later he said "problem solved".
He didn't know how to check the switch so he replaced it for $45 and it has been working ever since.

This happened to me a few years ago, it would also on occasion shut down for no reason and might or might not start back up.

Garry

Mine stays running /. Do you have pic of selonoid and where it is i see the starter

 

[Redbarchetta]

No nuts on the back side?

Or maybe the bolt is subject to side forces preventing removal and either the mount needs to be slightly moved/pried and or getting under the head of the bold to lift.

Are you still able to tighten the bolt tight?

I dont believe so, yes i can tighten it back up - it feels like it has to be pried up but dont want to do the wrong thing - really loose bolt now and doesnt feel like theirs a nut on inside of frame

 

[Little Red Tractor]

Run a jumper cable from the battery to ground. A couple folks have already suggested a ground issue and this will prove it one way or the other.

 

[lacritz]

Kioti CK 25 . Battery was not the problem, there was a 5 Amp fuse on the fire wall with the rest of the fuse holders. supplys power to the starting soloniod. The 5 AMP would come loose and would only get a clicking sound. Reminded me of a bad battery. Reposition the fuse the tractor would start. If the fuse came loose the engine would shut down.
Larry

 

[edells]

Got new batt., but same issue. It will turn over but soon as i turn it off a minute later. Its totally dead no lights dash etc. Sometimes i will get slight power but not enough to start. If i disconnect battery and put terminals back on - i will get power sometimes enough to turn but as soon as I turn it off. I get zero battery again for lts etc To be clear i can sometimes get it too run sometimes not after reconnecting battery. Is this the voltage reg? Key seems to turn fine - where is VR.

I had a 'battery problem' once that drove me crazy. It turned out that the positive cable had heavy corrosion deep inside where you couldn't see it underneath the plastic covering. A new positive cable fixed the problem.

 

[Gord Baker]

Got new batt., but same issue. It will turn over but soon as i turn it off a minute later. Its totally dead no lights dash etc. Sometimes i will get slight power but not enough to start. If i disconnect battery and put terminals back on - i will get power sometimes enough to turn but as soon as I turn it off. I get zero battery again for lts etc To be clear i can sometimes get it too run sometimes not after reconnecting battery. Is this the voltage reg? Key seems to turn fine - where is VR.

You have a huge battery drain somewhere. You might start feeling wiring etc or disconnect any amateur wiring. Sometimes a bad Voltage Regulator can do that but most or all are now solid state built into the Alternator. Try a new Ignition switch.