Tractor battery issue

[Gord Baker]

I have a similar issue with a riding mower. New battery that is connected to a trickle charger that might start on some days, and it might not on others. I think the safety switch is one of my issues because nothing at all will happen when turning the key. Other times it will try to crank, but it wont spin. I've tried jumping it off of my truck with the engine running, and nothing changes. I cleaned all my terminals and it worked great, then it didn't work on another day. My next plan is to replace the cables.

Try 'jumping' it with the + lead directly on the Starter. NEVER boost these small engines with a vehicle and engine running. You could burn out the Stator and your engine will no longer charge your battery.

 

[5030]

I have a similar issue with a riding mower. New battery that is connected to a trickle charger that might start on some days, and it might not on others. I think the safety switch is one of my issues because nothing at all will happen when turning the key. Other times it will try to crank, but it wont spin. I've tried jumping it off of my truck with the engine running, and nothing changes. I cleaned all my terminals and it worked great, then it didn't work on another day. My next plan is to replace the cables.

What engine Eddie? Both Kohlers and Kawasaki's are noted for their Bendix hanging up and not cranking, especially Kohlers. Had that issue with my wife's ZT and removed the starter and lubed the Bendix and as is well now.

 

[wedwards]

I had a similar problem where the tractor (New Holland TC29) would randomly not start. Ended up being one of the relays.

 

[Gord Baker]

Check your wires for Warm after turning off Engine. You have a huge current draw somewhere if the Battery is indeed a good one. NEVER boost a small engine from a vehicle with the engine running. You could burn out your Stator. Try a new ignition switch and remove any amateur wiring that may have been done.

 

[dcarman]

Got new batt., but same issue. It will turn over but soon as i turn it off a minute later. Its totally dead no lights dash etc. Sometimes i will get slight power but not enough to start. If i disconnect battery and put terminals back on - i will get power sometimes enough to turn but as soon as I turn it off. I get zero battery again for lts etc To be clear i can sometimes get it too run sometimes not after reconnecting battery. Is this the voltage reg? Key seems to turn fine - where is VR.

Sounds like a bad battery cable or grounding connection. A volt meter would tell you what voltage is in the battery. if it is around 12 volt the cables are definitely the issue. Grounding connections are the greatest culprit in situations like this but i've seen a few bad battery cables also. They look like new but have a disconnect somewhere inside.

 

[Gord Baker]

You can have 12VDC but not enough Amps on a failing battery.

 

[qualsite]

The first step, always, is to check the voltage at the battery terminals while trying to start. If the voltage stays at 12v, then there is problem getting the power where it needs to be... if the voltage drops way down, then your battery has a problem [internal cell connection, bad cell, etc.]. Start at the battery, then move your ground connection to the frame somewhere, and then your + to the starter.
If you have good voltage all the way to the starter and your ground is good, you can try jumping the starter solenoid to ensure that the starter will turn over. Most tractors have a start safety switch somewhere in the starter circuit [clutch fully depressed, in neutral, seat, etc.], and limit switches that are intermittent or out of adjustment can easily inhibit the starting [which is why they were put there]. As with any electrical troubleshooting, you start with your known good voltages and find where it stops... and yes, that includes grounds and grounding circuits. Many times, there will be a main electrical connector that goes to the dash, and I've found that they sometimes have issues as moisture and dirt works their way into the connectors... try disconnecting and reconnecting a few times to clean off the connections [or use a plastic safe contact cleaner on them].

 

[qualsite]

By the way, don't forget the starter solenoid. If the contact points in the solenoid are arc pitted, you can get intermittent starting issues. That's the easiest check, by just jumping the start terminal of the solenoid to the positive cable on the starter with a screwdriver [ensure the tractor is in neutral and brake on]. If the solenoid pulls in but the starter doesn't turn, the internal contacts in the solenoid have a problem. Some solenoid contact discs are made to move, which will move to a new contact point on the disc to keep it from wearing down in one spot... sometimes those will move enough to give you contact sometimes, but ends up in a bad spot for other starts. Also, if the rubber seal on the solenoid is cracked, you can get moisture and dirt into the solenoid, and they will not move properly to ensure a consistent start, or sometimes not move at all, if they haven't been used in awhile and moisture has corroded the plunger [voice of experience from my forklift that had water dripping off a lift cylinder right onto the starter solenoid... new solenoid now has plastic wrapped around it].

 

[DieselBound]

If you get NO power then it's a connection issue.

On my Kioti I've got this connector off of the positive side of the battery cable that I discovered is a bit flaky. For the first time ever I went to start the tractor after just having it running and it wouldn't crank, I had NO power to the dash. I found that flexing that connector* area resulted in getting a connection back. You might not be able to mess with wiring and turn the key to start but you should be able use your headlights (or such) to indicate if/when you've found the spot in the wiring that's flaky (headlights controlled through dash power, I'd think/expect).

* Picture of it here:

 

[EddieWalker]

What engine Eddie? Both Kohlers and Kawasaki's are noted for their Bendix hanging up and not cranking, especially Kohlers. Had that issue with my wife's ZT and removed the starter and lubed the Bendix and as is well now.

It's a John Deere LA175 with a 26 HP Briggs and Stratton engine.

 

[FDMTech]

Got new batt., but same issue. It will turn over but soon as i turn it off a minute later. Its totally dead no lights dash etc. Sometimes i will get slight power but not enough to start. If i disconnect battery and put terminals back on - i will get power sometimes enough to turn but as soon as I turn it off. I get zero battery again for lts etc To be clear i can sometimes get it too run sometimes not after reconnecting battery. Is this the voltage reg? Key seems to turn fine - where is VR.

Electrical diagnostics are a full time job but, I'd check all of the primary connections and the key switch. Get a multimeter so you can check voltage and resistances. Some professional assistance might be a good investment.

 

[4570Man]

The machine almost definitely doesn’t have a draw substantial enough to kill a battery completely in just a few minutes. It would catch on fire if it did. It’s most likely a bad connection somewhere. A volt meter should always be the first tool for electric problems instead of part changing.

 

[CliffordK]

Mine stays running /. Do you have pic of selonoid and where it is i see the starter

On about 95% of starters the Solenoid is a can on top of the starter.

On a few vehicles, the solenoid will be a separate switch mounted somewhere else (fender or firewall of a vehicle).

I like to use a screwdriver to short between the battery connector and the ignition connector on the Solenoid. WITH THE TRACTOR OUT OF GEAR!!!

That'll help you track down the problem. Battery wire problems, ignition wire problems, safety cutoff problems, etc. If it starts, then the battery and starter are fine.

Did anybody mention a battery brush? They should be pretty cheap. A combination device with a female wire brush for the battery terminals and a male brush for the wire connectors. Get a good clean connection to start with.

 

[AJT240]

I have a similar issue with a riding mower. New battery that is connected to a trickle charger that might start on some days, and it might not on others. I think the safety switch is one of my issues because nothing at all will happen when turning the key. Other times it will try to crank, but it wont spin. I've tried jumping it off of my truck with the engine running, and nothing changes. I cleaned all my terminals and it worked great, then it didn't work on another day. My next plan is to replace the cables.

I have the craftsman tight turn series tractor with Kohler 7000 series 22 horsepower V twin 725cc I find that the 275 cold crank battery does a great job

 

[AJT240]

I recently bought a new battery for my tractor it has the Kohler 7000 series engine 22 horsepower V twin 725cc mine has a 275 cold crank battery in it and seems to be perfect for it...

 

[Gord Baker]

NEVER EVER BOOST a small engine with a vehicle with engine running. Your stator will get 120-160+ amps and burn it out. Try to set the valves, check ALL battery/solenoid/starter connections by disassembling and sand terminals to bright metal. Boost with 12V battery directly to Starter motor. Solenoid and or Battery or multi-connector at Ignition switch could be faulty.

 

[MadJack]

Got new batt., but same issue. It will turn over but soon as i turn it off a minute later. Its totally dead no lights dash etc. Sometimes i will get slight power but not enough to start. If i disconnect battery and put terminals back on - i will get power sometimes enough to turn but as soon as I turn it off. I get zero battery again for lts etc To be clear i can sometimes get it too run sometimes not after reconnecting battery. Is this the voltage reg? Key seems to turn fine - where is VR.

Does it have steel lugs on the battery cables? There's a shop up the road with two 5-gallon buckets of those stupid things! Mr. fix-it says they rust INSIDE and lose connection, especially after the first turn of the key.
Replace them with heavy solid copper and coat connections with dielectric grease.

 

[Gord Baker]

Before you do anything else connect the Battery + DIRECTLY to the Starter Terminal and find a good Ground. Battery on Running Board so you can quickly connect and disconnect as you sit on the seat. PTO OFF, Clutch in, eyes front etc.
Report back. Hope you didn't turn in your old battery. Just sayin'