Tractor Chains---Off the Wall Question

[bookman51]

I put a front blade on my Farmall 340 tractor with a loader. It works okay pushing snow when I leave the land plane on the rear for weight. I checked in to tire chains and for 13.6 x 36 tires they run from $600 plus tax for simple ladder chains to over $1,000 for the more sophisiticated chains. I clear about 3/8 mile of road that is hilly. I wonder if something would work for the occasion slick spots like emergency automobile chains. That is, just four to six links of chains across the tires and held on by bunge cords. Seems like it would be cheaper and easier to install than a full set up tire chains---but of course, not as effective,---if they would work at all. Any one have any experience with frabricating and using something like this on a tractor? I have chains on my ATV and they work great. I also have a 420 John Deere crawler I can use if snow is really bad, but the blade is not as wide as the 340 blade. So, I am looking for something that is a cheap alternative for occasional use. Thanks in advance

 

[LouNY]

I rely on my chains for traction both going and stopping, I buy the expensive ones that work.

 

[Hay Dude]

can you drill in some studs into your rear tire bars? Not as good as chains, but pretty damn good

Here they are on the front of a New Holland snow blowing tractor.

I would think they would be dirt cheap and see no reason why they wouldn’t be fine all year round.

 

[Wolfy]

I agree with LouKY. It really depends on the hill and the ice you get. I had ladder chains on my Ford backhoe and it would not climb my driveway. Then I converted them into skidder chains, using grade 8 bolts and extra links. I have a few $ hundred in bolts, but now they work excellent and were still far cheaper than buying even used skidder chains. As far as using a dozer, my father has a JD 450E and used to have a JD 750B, they would both push a mountain of snow, if it was flat. Once on a icy hill, forget it. Quick sail to the bottom.

 

[oosik]

I have one valley in my driveway. It is NOT a place where I would want to go off the edge on either side. Otherwise my mile long gravel driveway is straight as an arrow - flat as a pool table. The snow melt from a very large field drains down one side of the valley and ice up on the driveway. When I had my Ford 1700 - I would chain up - all four wheels - when conditions got really bad. I had HD tractor chains. Back in 1983 the chains cost - $675 for both sets. They were V-bar ladder chains. They were a purple bi**h to install - mainly because they were so heavy. However - once installed, the little 1700 could climb right up the side of a building.

I now have the Kubota M6040. It weighs 10,100# and has very little problems with the icing side of the driveway in the valley. If I would ever need chains for the Kubota - I would get those Euro type chains - all four wheels.

Slipping around on ice is not a fun thing.

Weight is your friend when using ground engagement implements.

One caveat - this winter will be the fourth winter - in a row - I've not had to plow snow on my driveway.

 

[Rustyiron]

can you drill in some studs into your rear tire bars? Not as good as chains, but pretty damn good

Here they are on the front of a New Holland snow blowing tractor.

I would think they would be dirt cheap and see no reason why they wouldn’t be fine all year round.

View attachment 784288

Hay I run studs, they're about a buck each and add up quickly. I do leave them in a even "moved" them to replacement tires so they're very durable.
From zooming in I'd guess that the owner of that NH removed the studs from the center location and reinstalled them to the outer portion of the bars. Removing them does leave a little pocket unsuitable for reinstallation. I learned this after doing the same.
Nothing is in the same league as chains but anything is better than just tires on ice.
They're un noticable on the road.

 

[Hay Dude]

Hay I run studs, they're about a buck each and add up quickly. I do leave them in a even "moved" them to replacement tires so they're very durable.
From zooming in I'd guess that the owner of that NH removed the studs from the center location and reinstalled them to the outer portion of the bars. Removing them does leave a little pocket unsuitable for reinstallation. I learned this after doing the same.
Nothing is in the same league as chains but anything is better than just tires on ice.
They're un noticable on the road.View attachment 784305

Good to know. I’m thinking about buying that New Holland T6050, but I’m not real impressed with it’s tests and its a “Delta”, so it’s stripped of creature comforts. Tires worn down, too.

Nice Kubby! Is that a Dual Speed? Impressive cab structure. I had one and liked it.

 

[Rustyiron]

"Creature comforts"
Don't look to closely at my picture. That's a Acme hillbilly model cab for woods use.
12 sp hyd shuttle.

 

[zzvyb6]

Why not just add more weight in a conventional manner: stone box, 55gal drum with scrap iron. you know, something less permanent that won't tear up the driveway or garage ? Do you need studs for Summer, Fall, Spring ? $600 buys a LOT of suitcase weights that can hang off a 3pt weight bar. Plus, you might need a few for the front if you don't want to use L/R brake pedals for steering correction.

 

[zzvyb6]

"Creature comforts"
Don't look to closely at my picture. That's a Acme hillbilly model cab for woods use.
12 sp hyd shuttle.

Seems like a see a snow blower & a pusher off in the distance, too !

 

[Rustyiron]

My experience is that no matter how hard you press rubber into ice (adding weight) it doesn't gain much if any traction.

 

[Rustyiron]

Seems like a see a snow blower & a pusher off in the distance, too !

Yes, I grew up snow deprived in the mid Atlantic area. I like snow and the associated toys.
I don't have enough tractor for that blower without the creeper gears and the pusher is for the SS.

 

[fishhead]

Bookman,
I highly recommend the eurostyle chains vs studding or ladder- they are much smoother, provide great traction and seem to wear really well even on my paved drive. I did not see you mention whether your drive is paved but in my experience with ladder chains you can get a grip then slip then grip thing going which wears the chains and drive and hurts stopping and starting. On gravel you can use v grips but they can do a number on other surfaces. Studs which we swear by for Vehicles and bicycles here work well but wouldn't give quite the same traction on packed snow, and can't really be installed and removed in the same holes. In the summer i would not want to be running studs over pavement when the asphalt is warm and weak.

When I bought my set of OFA chains I contacted Windy Ridge equipment in NH as suggested in a thread on here, I found they were less than half the cost of the other euro style chains and have been really happy with them.

If you do get chains make sure you check on the drive on method of mounting- makes things a lot easier

 

[Rustyiron]

I may have suggested Windy Ridge, they're my chain and stud place.
I bought the pieces to make my 4 link (spacing) into 2 link for my SS chains. Much more effective and comfortable with the unforgiving 14 ply tires. They're a good chainsaw shop also.

 

[bookman51]

Why not just add more weight in a conventional manner: stone box, 55gal drum with scrap iron. you know, something less permanent that won't tear up the driveway or garage ? Do you need studs for Summer, Fall, Spring ? $600 buys a LOT of suitcase weights that can hang off a 3pt weight bar. Plus, you might need a few for the front if you don't want to use L/R brake pedals for steering correction.

I put my land plane back on and that helped a lot. Thanks

 

[bookman51]

Bookman,
I highly recommend the eurostyle chains vs studding or ladder- they are much smoother, provide great traction and seem to wear really well even on my paved drive. I did not see you mention whether your drive is paved but in my experience with ladder chains you can get a grip then slip then grip thing going which wears the chains and drive and hurts stopping and starting. On gravel you can use v grips but they can do a number on other surfaces. Studs which we swear by for Vehicles and bicycles here work well but wouldn't give quite the same traction on packed snow, and can't really be installed and removed in the same holes. In the summer i would not want to be running studs over pavement when the asphalt is warm and weak.

When I bought my set of OFA chains I contacted Windy Ridge equipment in NH as suggested in a thread on here, I found they were less than half the cost of the other euro style chains and have been really happy with them.

If you do get chains make sure you check on the drive on method of mounting- makes things a lot easier

Thanks, It is an entirely gravel/crushed rock road. Thanks for the information about the ladder chains and Windy Ridge equipment.

 

[Hay Dude]

My experience is that no matter how hard you press rubber into ice (adding weight) it doesn't gain much if any traction.

In fact, weight can mean more trouble on slick ice. If the back is real heavy, it’ll swing around on ya and you’ll be looking up the hill from the bottom! My have to change your underwear!

Studs are a nice option for those who don’t want to do chains on/chains off

 

[bookman51]

I agree with LouKY. It really depends on the hill and the ice you get. I had ladder chains on my Ford backhoe and it would not climb my driveway. Then I converted them into skidder chains, using grade 8 bolts and extra links. I have a few $ hundred in bolts, but now they work excellent and were still far cheaper than buying even used skidder chains. As far as using a dozer, my father has a JD 450E and used to have a JD 750B, they would both push a mountain of snow, if it was flat. Once on a icy hill, forget it. Quick sail to the bottom.

We usually do not get that much ice here in central Nebraska, but we do get icy spots. Thanks

 

[bookman51]

I may have suggested Windy Ridge, they're my chain and stud place.
I bought the pieces to make my 4 link (spacing) into 2 link for my SS chains. Much more effective and comfortable with the unforgiving 14 ply tires. They're a good chainsaw shop also.

Thanks, I have sent them an e-mail.

 

[IndyIan]

I whack in a bunch of sheet metal hex head screws with drill, if the driveway gets covered with freezing rain or if I let a bunch of small snowfalls pack down and it goes to ice. Search my posts back to 2012-13 and you'll see what I use. They stay in if your not doing donuts and must be hardened a little as they don't really seem to wear, even one I forgot to take out and left in all summer. I seem to need them every 2 or 3 years. I wouldn't use them in the woods as spinning and gripping a root would probably rip them out, but ice is pretty soft really comparted to steel and they give you some reasonable grip on an inclined sheet of ice for a couple dozen dollars.